CK5
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Black Betty - Formerly Blaze the Monster Machine

1984 K5 Project for Dad and kids
The converter is switched using ground, but it should be in the factory 4L80E Holley harness. Are you adding another converter lock? If so it needs to be a ground.
 
No. It was the brake switch wire to unlock the converter when you push the brake. I had it hooked up to the full time 12v side of the brake switch so it would never lock the converter. Got that switched and now it all works as it's supposed to.
 
No. It was the brake switch wire to unlock the converter when you push the brake. I had it hooked up to the full time 12v side of the brake switch so it would never lock the converter. Got that switched and now it all works as it's supposed to.
Ok, that makes more sense.

Don't baby it, don't rev it to redline, but don't baby it when you break it in.
 
No. It was the brake switch wire to unlock the converter when you push the brake. I had it hooked up to the full time 12v side of the brake switch so it would never lock the converter. Got that switched and now it all works as it's supposed to.
Is that the gray burnout wire they tell you to hook up?
 
Ok, that makes more sense.

Don't baby it, don't rev it to redline, but don't baby it when you break it in.
Hard to red line when you don’t have a tach haha.

She’s getting a proper beating, I mean break in. Shifts are set for 6000 and the highest I’ve seen is 5000. I’m trying to keep it in the 2500-4000 range when driving and accelerating but it’s hard with 50mph speed limits.
 
I have that wire hooked up and do a lot of burnouts in my regal. All it is supposed to do is unlock the TCC if you apply the brake when it is locked.
 
They holley won't let you do a brake stand with it connected. Id have to dig into the manual but I think thats the wire. I don't have mine hooked up and the trans acts fine.
I’ll have to try that later. But for sure it was the reason my converter wasn’t locking.
 
Public service announcement.

Don't update firmware if it's not required.

Also, holley's video misses the crucial step of having to open the GCF file in the new version of terminator software so it can be updated to the latest version.
 
Hopefully dropping it off Monday at the exhaust shop. 2.5-3” true dual with black widow mufflers, exiting at a 45* at the rear bumper with some old school 3-3.5” chrome slant cut tips. Going to try and squeeze an h pipe in there as well.
 
Soft top?
3" may be fine,
Hard top? 2.5".
I have done two trucks with dual 3" and both have drone. Both with X pipes.
I won't ever do dual 3" again on something that I want to drive more than a few miles at a time. Almost 80db in the driver seat of my '01 with a 6.0.
Now, I will tell you that I put a "pulse chamber " and tailpipes on my '01 last month from MPI exhaust and it fixed the drone. The kit did come with 2.5" tailpipes as well.
I like to hace a noticeable exhaust, but the drone in the cab is very annoying to my ears after too many decades of being around trucks and equipment.
 
Hard top with no doors and the rear window permanently down. It’s going to be loud no matter what but better than dumped under the front seat. 80dB is what my tundra runs on the highway and I’m fine with that. It is equal length true dual 3” with an X pipe dumped under the bed. The turbo did help tame it some. Maybe I turbo the blazer? Hmmm.
 
Does that exhaust shop do mandrel bent? Because most local exhaust shops just use crush bends and you might be wasting your time vs the mandrel bent smaller stuff you have.

On that engine 2.5" will likely lose 20 HP vs dual 3" if both are bent the same.

If you use mufflers with larger volume it can reduce or eliminate the drone.

I use a universal kit and weld the kit myself to use a true dual mandrel bent 3".
 
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