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Blazer Campers- The not a Chalet thread. FWC, Hallmark, Phoenix units.

I'm about to start the journey to build my own - but this will be years, so I'll check back when done.
About those examples, I've been chasing the FWC version (or similar) for years. The Chalet, in the first picture, was for sale on Tacoma's Craigslist circa 2010 for 8k - it's claim to fame for me is it seems to double in price every time I see it again. There is an orange FWC parked in front of a apartment near me in Kennewick Washington that looks like the twin to the second picture. It demonstrates why I'm not interested in them - they fall apart but I do like the layout. True, no windows on the driver's side but there are usually windows in the soft top.
As placemark - here's what it looks like now
sUQBV63h.jpg

yep, overpaid for it but it's rust free where it counts, frame isn't cracked, and it's a loaded, 6.2 diesel. Before you say it, I love the 6.2 - I've turbo'd several of them and find them perfect for me.
what I camp in now
uoNhijFh.jpg

depending on things, it may be parts for the blazer.
motor stays the same, I have a nv4500 for it, I'll build an aluminum frame, slide-in camper. Likely a double bed up on top...

anyway, see y'all in 4 years or so
 
You won’t be the first to build your own and there are improvements that can be worked in.

You aren’t wrong in saying the FWC units fall apart. That’s mainly due to the poor choice of materials they used. Particle board has no place in a camper, much less one targeted for off road use.

I’ve got a few years of real world experience with mine having dumped the particle board for real plywood. Hundreds of off road miles from the mountains of Colorado to the desert southwest. No issues with the wood. The cab over has zero sag even with my big ass up there.

The only issue I have stems from 30+year old canvas that is in need of replacement.

Search user @americamike and look at his build up of his camper. I gave him measurements off of mine to start from. He did a hell of a job on it for sure.
 
ZooMad75 said:
You won’t be the first to build your own and there are improvements that can be worked in.

You aren’t wrong in saying the FWC units fall apart. That’s mainly due to the poor choice of materials they used. Particle board has no place in a camper, much less one targeted for off road use.

I’ve got a few years of real world experience with mine having dumped the particle board for real plywood. Hundreds of off road miles from the mountains of Colorado to the desert southwest. No issues with the wood. The cab over has zero sag even with my big ass up there.

The only issue I have stems from 30+year old canvas that is in need of replacement.

Search user @americamike and look at his build up of his camper. I gave him measurements off of mine to start from. He did a hell of a job on it for sure.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I have a friend who owns a shop which makes tops for high-end boats.... we've discussed materials already on this... probably use the same thing that is on my FJ40 that I got from Trollhole (seriously). I'm warmer in my FJ40 while snow wheeling then I ever was with a hardtop.. this stuff is that good.
 
ZooMad75 said:
You won’t be the first to build your own and there are improvements that can be worked in.

Search user @americamike and look at his build up of his camper. I gave him measurements off of mine to start from. He did a hell of a job on it for sure.
Click to expand...

I wish he wouldve continued his build on that, it was looking sweet. I understand he sold it and made some money and I dont blame him there!
 
$1500 is not a bad price. The full vert version is not a deal breaker as they are the same as the ones used on a half cab.

The difference is there may be extra wood tacked on to create a sealing surface for the glass and windshield header.

And since most will need the cab wall and cab over floor replaced anyway it’s not a big deal.
 
ZooMad75 said:
Search user @americamike and look at his build up of his camper. I gave him measurements off of mine to start from. He did a hell of a job on it for sure.
Click to expand...
Hey zooMad, do you still have those measurements? if so, would you want to share them with me?
 
ZooMad75 said:
I probably do. Let me look after work. Worst case I go back outside and measure it again.
Click to expand...
Whatever works for you! Im not in huge rush. The more I follow you overland guys the more and more i want to build/find a FWC style camper.
 
kylerj133 said:
Whatever works for you! Im not in huge rush. The more I follow you overland guys the more and more i want to build/find a FWC style camper.
Click to expand...
@Capt Ron has at least one extra in his inventory I know he’s willing to part ways with. Still needs all the rework that they all do but it’s a solid staring point.

It all depends on how deep down that rabbit hole you want to go.
 
ZooMad75 said:
@Capt Ron has at least one extra in his inventory I know he’s willing to part ways with. Still needs all the rework that they all do but it’s a solid staring point.

It all depends on how deep down that rabbit hole you want to go.
Click to expand...
Thanks @ZooMad75 I will send you a message. I also might be interested in what @Capt Ron has but Ive got a shortbed k10 so im not sure if that would still be a good starting point or not.
 
I’ve got a couple of thoughts based on what you just mentioned for it going into a pickup vs a Blazer.

First off, a Blazer version lacks any traditional “floor pack” as normal slide in campers do. So putting one on yours wouldn’t normally work, as the front wall has a gaping hole for the pass through portion. Plus you have to bolt it to the bedsides.

I’ve had this idea floating in my brain for a while as I’ve seen some Blazer campers get converted to traditional style with a fully built front wall and floor pack. But my idea has a little twist to it. If I was to put a Blazer FWC on a pickup I’d go more along the style of making it more like the current FWC Project M model camper. Those lack a floor pack also. They attach to to bed rails like any fiberglass or aluminum topper shell. They also have a lift gate to work with a regulator truck tailgate. When not in camp mode it works like any other topper as the bed is wide open. Guys typically go modular for inside appointments to allow easy/quick changes from truck to camp modes. Some don’t and completely fit out the bed like a regular camper. Go look at four wheel campers website for ideas.

Here is the twist of using a Blazer camper. They all need that front wall replaced so it’s not too big of a deal just make a full section to close that out. The back wall does have some options as it will hang below the bed rails. If you are capable or knows someone that can tig weld you could cut the back wall out and make a lift gate panel and reuse the truck tailgate.

Though I think once you get the measurements from me you are going to find the front to back length may be a inch or two shorter than the bed. This could work to your advantage if you want to leave the back wall intact and keep the stock FWC door. I’m thinking it’s short enough if lined up to the front wall of the bed that the rear wall will be inside the bed by an inch or two to allow the tailgate to be used still. This allows some added security that the camper can’t slide backwards (though it won’t if bolted down) and the camper can’t be opened without opening the gate. The main bonus is the platform it creates like a front porch to get in and out from the camper. Easy to take shoes off prior to going inside, it’s also a perfect place to set a stove and cook outside without lugging a table. You can sit on it, stand and reach the roof of the camper when it’s down too.

Larry’s K10 has that setup with his Phoenix camper and it’s super handy.

So you’ll have to look at the measurements and compare to your truck and see if my silly idea is workable or not. If not you might want to keep your eye out for a used FWC regular camper to build from. Though they are no less expensive than the Blazer versions and higher the newer they are.
 
ZooMad75 said:
I’ve got a couple of thoughts based on what you just mentioned for it going into a pickup vs a Blazer.

First off, a Blazer version lacks any traditional “floor pack” as normal slide in campers do. So putting one on yours wouldn’t normally work, as the front wall has a gaping hole for the pass through portion. Plus you have to bolt it to the bedsides.

I’ve had this idea floating in my brain for a while as I’ve seen some Blazer campers get converted to traditional style with a fully built front wall and floor pack. But my idea has a little twist to it. If I was to put a Blazer FWC on a pickup I’d go more along the style of making it more like the current FWC Project M model camper. Those lack a floor pack also. They attach to to bed rails like any fiberglass or aluminum topper shell. They also have a lift gate to work with a regulator truck tailgate. When not in camp mode it works like any other topper as the bed is wide open. Guys typically go modular for inside appointments to allow easy/quick changes from truck to camp modes. Some don’t and completely fit out the bed like a regular camper. Go look at four wheel campers website for ideas.

Here is the twist of using a Blazer camper. They all need that front wall replaced so it’s not too big of a deal just make a full section to close that out. The back wall does have some options as it will hang below the bed rails. If you are capable or knows someone that can tig weld you could cut the back wall out and make a lift gate panel and reuse the truck tailgate.

Though I think once you get the measurements from me you are going to find the front to back length may be a inch or two shorter than the bed. This could work to your advantage if you want to leave the back wall intact and keep the stock FWC door. I’m thinking it’s short enough if lined up to the front wall of the bed that the rear wall will be inside the bed by an inch or two to allow the tailgate to be used still. This allows some added security that the camper can’t slide backwards (though it won’t if bolted down) and the camper can’t be opened without opening the gate. The main bonus is the platform it creates like a front porch to get in and out from the camper. Easy to take shoes off prior to going inside, it’s also a perfect place to set a stove and cook outside without lugging a table. You can sit on it, stand and reach the roof of the camper when it’s down too.

Larry’s K10 has that setup with his Phoenix camper and it’s super handy.

So you’ll have to look at the measurements and compare to your truck and see if my silly idea is workable or not. If not you might want to keep your eye out for a used FWC regular camper to build from. Though they are no less expensive than the Blazer versions and higher the newer they are.
Click to expand...
Ya I did look at the FWC "m" model and I liked it, but I'm undecided on having just a shell or have it all together with a floorpack. I think i like the idea of having everything all together, that way its a complete unit and not exposed underneath while being stored. I did see a guy on youtube with a long bed 80's square that had the M model and it looked pretty nice.

I am able to tig/mig so building shouldnt be a problem. Im kind of leaning towards starting from scratch vs modify/rebuild one. although if i were to rebuild a camper I would atleast have an idea of how FWC has things layed out/built. I do like the idea of having the tailgate like larry's k10. I also have alot of questions like the doors on these campers seem pretty small. why not build a full size door like the bumper pull pop up campers have? or is it not that bad climbing in and out of these?
 
With a pop top there really isn’t a decent way to have a full-size door. Some Palomino pop-up truck campers have a full size door but it also means the you don’t have a full back wall either. Plus that door has an “extension” that you add to the main door to make it full size top to bottom when the lid is up. It’s a serious compromise to the campers strength.

Mine isn’t a big deal to get in and out of. Mainly because I’m climbing in as I’m going through. With the top up I’m stepping on the bumper as I lean my head and shoulders through, bring my other leg in and I’m standing up inside.

Larry’s with the gate is actually a little more difficult for me being tall. I just have crawl through and then stand.
 
ZooMad75 said:
With a pop top there really isn’t a decent way to have a full-size door. Some Palomino pop-up truck campers have a full size door but it also means the you don’t have a full back wall either. Plus that door has an “extension” that you add to the main door to make it full size top to bottom when the lid is up. It’s a serious compromise to the campers strength.

Mine isn’t a big deal to get in and out of. Mainly because I’m climbing in as I’m going through. With the top up I’m stepping on the bumper as I lean my head and shoulders through, bring my other leg in and I’m standing up inside.

Larry’s with the gate is actually a little more difficult for me being tall. I just have crawl through and then stand.
Click to expand...

ya I guess that makes sense about the door. Lots of good info in this thread. Thanks for all the info and the measurments!
 
Here's a thought project if you will. Would one of these campers work with shock towers through the bed since it has no floor of it's own? I'm thinking since most of these need quite a bit of work to start with, what if the shell and the upper bed were retained then a raised deck was put in or not at all. Would it leave enough function for sleeping and staying warm? I'm thinking it would.

I've been looking for sleeping solutions that don't require 100% custom build like America Mike did or a secondary arrangement i.e. trailer, tent or sleeping bag outside etc. but still have my full boogie suspension. I'm a fan of load and go and like to keep it easy. Sleeping in a truck shell has been great for me and the dogs and would like to continue with the K5 now that it's built out. I'd like to get it to be sleeping capable.
 
Desert_K5 said:
Here's a thought project if you will. Would one of these campers work with shock towers through the bed since it has no floor of it's own? I'm thinking since most of these need quite a bit of work to start with, what if the shell and the upper bed were retained then a raised deck was put in or not at all. Would it leave enough function for sleeping and staying warm? I'm thinking it would.

I've been looking for sleeping solutions that don't require 100% custom build like America Mike did or a secondary arrangement i.e. trailer, tent or sleeping bag outside etc. but still have my full boogie suspension. I'm a fan of load and go and like to keep it easy. Sleeping in a truck shell has been great for me and the dogs and would like to continue with the K5 now that it's built out. I'd like to get it to be sleeping capable.
Click to expand...
I would think it would be possible but perhaps a 2 stage set up where the rear most area would still be stock bed level and then the step up to clear the towers. Being able to actually stand up in the rear area would help a lot when it comes to getting dressed etc.....
How far back does your shock towers go? Even a foot or 2 of room would work I would think.
 
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