Looks Bad A$$!!!
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Blazer is really done. Last pictures while she is still mine.
- Thread starter cybrfire
- Start date
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Dayum!
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
hmmm what a coincidence i just tested off on cylinder head seat rings steel guilds cutting the seat rings milling the head mounting surface and porting and polishing the head un school today, i got a 100 percent hahaSome more pictures,
The rotating assembly ended up balancing to within 6/10's of a gram. To put that into perspective, a Dime weighs in at over 2 grams. A check blank weighs in at 1.08 grams.
I wish I had an actual assembled weight of the entire rotating assembly.
I wish I had an actual assembled weight of the entire rotating assembly.
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
in class we have to hone out connecting rods to within 2 ten thousandths of an inch thats .0002''
Ten_Bucks
1/2 ton status
Nazarethk5
1/2 ton status
hey man not to sound like a douche but try not to quote a page of pictures next time its driving me nuts. looks awesome keep the pics coming!
1BEATK5
1/2 ton status
i like those electrical tape main and rod bearings. are those a new fangled racing idea? nascar inspired? 
badass truck btw.
badass truck btw.
Ten_Bucks
1/2 ton status
Nope, sorry, already back on.
Kinda figured as much considering you do live in Iowa. Anyways, its still a sweet looking rig. You did an awesome job on it.
Scott
WTF /\
smalltruckbigcid
1/2 ton status
Well the stock crank weighs in about 72 pounds. Add about 25 pounds for rods and pistons. By the time your done the rotating assembly will be about 110~120 pounds.
When I was looking at doing a stroker 472 with alum rods I figured I'd lose about 12 pounds from stock from the rotating assembly. The stock piston/rod combo is damn heavy.
When I was looking at doing a stroker 472 with alum rods I figured I'd lose about 12 pounds from stock from the rotating assembly. The stock piston/rod combo is damn heavy.
Well the stock crank weighs in about 72 pounds. Add about 25 pounds for rods and pistons. By the time your done the rotating assembly will be about 110~120 pounds.
When I was looking at doing a stroker 472 with alum rods I figured I'd lose about 12 pounds from stock from the rotating assembly. The stock piston/rod combo is damn heavy.
Wow, I was way underestimating the weight. I don't think my grinding and knife edging took much weight off really.
OK guys, need a little assist here.
Decided with this rebuild I'd put a stereo in the blazer. I didn't want a full head unit, I didn't want a CD player or any of that kind of thing.
I acquired a small 400 watt 4 channel amp. I have an MP3 player that I'm using for the music selection. The MP3 player i'm splitting into 4 inputs into the front and rear RCA channels. Speaker wires are left front, right front, and the other 2 i have put together to one 8" sub in the rear in a small box.
If I hook up all 4 RCA jacks the sub doesn't get any signal as far as I can tell. If I one hook one of them, the sub works but I believe its only getting one of the two channels. Is bridging the rear out puts causing my issues? Don't know much about amps so I'm a little bit at a loss. I had wanted to feed 2 channels worth of power to the sub. One channel is barely enough power to make it audible.
Decided with this rebuild I'd put a stereo in the blazer. I didn't want a full head unit, I didn't want a CD player or any of that kind of thing.
I acquired a small 400 watt 4 channel amp. I have an MP3 player that I'm using for the music selection. The MP3 player i'm splitting into 4 inputs into the front and rear RCA channels. Speaker wires are left front, right front, and the other 2 i have put together to one 8" sub in the rear in a small box.
If I hook up all 4 RCA jacks the sub doesn't get any signal as far as I can tell. If I one hook one of them, the sub works but I believe its only getting one of the two channels. Is bridging the rear out puts causing my issues? Don't know much about amps so I'm a little bit at a loss. I had wanted to feed 2 channels worth of power to the sub. One channel is barely enough power to make it audible.
What channels are being bridged on the amp to run the subwoofer? Are you sure that you are getting signal to front left/right and rear left/right? Another thing you might run into is that running in on the rear without a low-pass crossover its not gonna sound very good. The sub needs something to filter out the higher frequencies. Some amps have crossovers built into that can limit the frequencies to the front or rear outputs
BTW, I'm rockin your shackle flip. Everyone that has seen it loves it.
BTW, I'm rockin your shackle flip. Everyone that has seen it loves it.
I'm definitely good on the front 2 channels. 6x9's in the doors and they sound pretty good considering its all in a tin can.
I'm just not sure I'm bridging the rear 2 channels together properly. I've been looking for the manual that came with the amp but can't find it. I'm sure that'd help.
Good to hear you're happy with the shackle flip. If you're happy then we are!
Should just have to run wire from the positive on say right rear to the positive post on the subwoofer, and a negative on the left rear to the negative post on the subwoofer.
Edit, also make sure the nominal impedance on the subwoofer is 4ohms. Most 4 channel amps when bridged must see a 4ohm impedence or (numerically) higher
Edit, also make sure the nominal impedance on the subwoofer is 4ohms. Most 4 channel amps when bridged must see a 4ohm impedence or (numerically) higher
