Kert, how the he77 did I miss this thread is still going? You got a lot of cool work going on here, I'll be watchin' again. I wonder why it dropped off my subscribed thing, this is odd.
CK5
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Blazer is really done. Last pictures while she is still mine.
- Thread starter cybrfire
- Start date
I think its actually in the wrong forum but whatever. Not so much a build anymore but some improvements here and there.
Put some rear brakelines on tonight, so that much got done. Making a template out of aluminum tig wire is so handy. Rigid enough to hold its shape yet bends super easy with your fingers.
Fixed and LED indicator today. Turned out to be a faulty LED, I was thinking I wired it backward but not the case.
Fixed my rock lights today, thought I had a bad bulb, turned out to be a bad connection.
Wired up my windshield wiper motor, never got that done the first time round. Low and HI, no park function available.
Pulled the harmonic balancer, making some marks on it for more accurate timing.
Started fabricating a set of aluminum valve covers. Back when the motor was first put together I needed a tall set of covers to clear the rockers. Wasn't going to be able to get them fast enough for Blazer bash. I ended up making a 3/8" thick ring to raise the covers up. Going back now and making my own valve covers from scratch. Pics of this to come as I make some progress.
The current list,
Reinstall balancer and retime/sync engine and ECU.
bleed rear brakes
replace batteries
**Build Valve covers**
Optionals, building a cooler and possibly a jeri can mount.
Fixed my rock lights today, thought I had a bad bulb, turned out to be a bad connection.
Wired up my windshield wiper motor, never got that done the first time round. Low and HI, no park function available.
Pulled the harmonic balancer, making some marks on it for more accurate timing.
Started fabricating a set of aluminum valve covers. Back when the motor was first put together I needed a tall set of covers to clear the rockers. Wasn't going to be able to get them fast enough for Blazer bash. I ended up making a 3/8" thick ring to raise the covers up. Going back now and making my own valve covers from scratch. Pics of this to come as I make some progress.
The current list,
Reinstall balancer and retime/sync engine and ECU.
bleed rear brakes
replace batteries
**Build Valve covers**
Optionals, building a cooler and possibly a jeri can mount.
I want to see this valve cover build....
Think "new item to sell" when building them...I know its a caddy, but SBC/BBC shouldn't be too much different right?
Probably similar as far as building them goes. Just pattern and dimensional differences.
THIS is correct. and all it takes. Although KNOWING how to fab is HUGE. Just look at some of the hack threads we have in the garage and its obvious there are people with welders and access to steel that should not be messin with it. They need to be using paper and tape. As usual Krt does some bad ass work for his rig. Diggen the axle setup Kert.
Getting accurate timing for the 500 has always been a bit challenging. No timing tapes the correct size so we did this.
Red mark is at 35*. That should be peak torque. Marked every 5* from 0 to 50. Need a mark at 50 for computer/engine sync.
Red mark is at 35*. That should be peak torque. Marked every 5* from 0 to 50. Need a mark at 50 for computer/engine sync.
Ok... Wait a second here.
You got a Cad motor in the crew. But do you got a Caddy in the wheeler as well?
You got a Cad motor in the crew. But do you got a Caddy in the wheeler as well?
Ok... Wait a second here.
You got a Cad motor in the crew. But do you got a Caddy in the wheeler as well?
Yes sir.
Still workin' on the PCV system, had kind of a late night just got home.
I think my PCV valve is just not matched properly to the engine and my "controlled" vaccum leak is not as controlled as it should be.
Pic of the starting point of the valve covers. 3/8" thick aluminum base ring.
Your pic request Dave.
Home made luber for diffs and tcases and the like.
Just an air tank turned on end and put on top of a rejected beadlock ring. Some casters welded to the bottom.
Drilled a large hole in the top and welded in a 2" NPT female fitting. Took a plug for the 2" NPT and drilled and tapped for 1/4" NPT and threaded in an air chuck.
Fill about half full of gear lube, 2 - 3 gallons and then pressurize with compressed air. Disconnect the air hose and roll it to where you need it, open the 90* air valve at the bottom to allow the gear lube to be pushed out and into whatever gear case it is you are filling.
Home made luber for diffs and tcases and the like.
Just an air tank turned on end and put on top of a rejected beadlock ring. Some casters welded to the bottom.
Drilled a large hole in the top and welded in a 2" NPT female fitting. Took a plug for the 2" NPT and drilled and tapped for 1/4" NPT and threaded in an air chuck.
Fill about half full of gear lube, 2 - 3 gallons and then pressurize with compressed air. Disconnect the air hose and roll it to where you need it, open the 90* air valve at the bottom to allow the gear lube to be pushed out and into whatever gear case it is you are filling.
Looks like it would work well, how much pressure do you run into it?
Don't really have a known setting. Just hook up an airline and when the hissing of the air slows down pretty slow, I go with it.
Small air cavity considering the lube inside so maybe 120psi give or take.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Pfft.... I'm about to make me one of those!!! 
Damn, if you hold the nozzle in one spot can you cut metal with the gear oil at that pressure?
Seriously though, does it come out really fast or is the viscosity high enough it is still slow?
Are those valve covers going to use tubes for full length bolts?
Seriously though, does it come out really fast or is the viscosity high enough it is still slow?
Are those valve covers going to use tubes for full length bolts?
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
The sound, when the Gear Oil runs out, HAS to be priceless! 
