CK5
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Blazer is really done. Last pictures while she is still mine.

It looks good Kert, nice job on the valve covers, and I like the new top.

He's probably talking about ceramic coating, it looks better, and won't trap moisture, but the wrap is probably more effective as an insulator.
 
Like an HPC or JET HOT, disagree about the covering being cooler temp wise. I had a set done in an Astro that I put a V8 in. The headers were coated inside and out you could just about grab the header with your hand when it was running and not get burned.
 
The header wrap discussion is always one of my favorites. Full of subposition and very little imperical data.

I don't have any imperical data either but after 5 years of running the stuff, I have no rust on my headers under the wrap. Exhaust is rusty where there is no wrap though. Go figure.

My headers stay cool enough that I can put my hand on them with it at operating temperature. Fact i'll go you one further, the crew cab has an area wrapped where the exhaust goes close to something that I didn't want getting hot. I didn't have a hose clamp to secure the loose end the day I put it on. I didn't want it coming undone so the temporary solution was a zip tie. Weeks later that temporary solution was still there after it had been run many miles. The zip tie never melted. I did however put another zip tie right on the pipe just after the wrapped section and it melted off in a matter of minutes. The header wrap most certainly keeps the heat in.
 
but it doesn't look cool :doah:

It feels cool though. function over form.

Here is one downside I have for the wrap. When gear lube or oil gets spilled on them you have a recipe for a nice fire. Been there and done that. Recitified that situation though.
 
Veronica has a date with a chassis dyno set for the 18th of this month.

Few changes need to be finalized before we go to the dyno/tune session. Nothing major though.

Looking forward to this. There will be video for sure.
 
After running the DEI titanium wrap on the pipe part of my exhaust, I'm a believer in it...my front floor boards (headers and flex joints) are so hot you don't want to not have shoes on, but the rear right above the mufflers they are cool enough to go barefoot.

dei.jpg
 
Like an HPC or JET HOT, disagree about the covering being cooler temp wise. I had a set done in an Astro that I put a V8 in. The headers were coated inside and out you could just about grab the header with your hand when it was running and not get burned.

Man after running several sets of coating headers on several different things over the years, I don't believe that one bit. Those headers will burn the sh!t out of you if you even bump them. Did you try that right after you started it or something, because that just can't be unless you grabbed a dead cylinder?

I agree with Zim and Kert, header wrap looks like crap and might trap moisture, but it works better than the coating.

I look forward to the dyno results Kert!
 
folkenheath;3132064 I agree with Zim and Kert said:
I can see the header wrap holding moisture if they were rained on while the vehicle was not running. Thing about that though, if it isn't running and the headers are getting wet, wrap or no wrap they'll be wet. After the rain or whatever it is getting them wet stops, the unwrapped headers would dry fairly quickly. The wrapped headers only take a few seconds to dry out after you start the engine. There is a whole lot of heat there for drying things out. Any moisture splashed up on them while the vehicle is in use will be a very short lived thing and I doubt highly it would contribute to any kind of rust.

Primary mission for the chassis dyno is just to get things running right. The last bit of tuning for the XFI needs to be done while you're driving and I don't think it even possible for the passenger to operate a mouse and change values in the fields while you're moving down the road in the blazer.

On the dyno the computer can be set off to the side of the vehicle and some changes made in a much more controlled environment.

Admittedly I wouldn't mind a full blast pull or two.
 
We'll see how things go. If i'm not happy with the tune the full blast aint happenin.

video will be rollin' though.
 
This build is just getting sicker and sicker :waytogo:
Not too many people fab their own valve covers,
and I really like how you got the anti-wrap bar mounts centered on the axle
Was that to minimize the effect on flex?
 
This build is just getting sicker and sicker :waytogo:
Not too many people fab their own valve covers,
and I really like how you got the anti-wrap bar mounts centered on the axle
Was that to minimize the effect on flex?


Both flex and clearance were the contributing factors.

Kert, do you happen to have some pictures on the cage being built and how you tied it into the frame?

I'll see what I have.
 
Just about got everything dialed in for the dyno session.

20 minutes or so, of work left to be done on the second valve cover then the breathers can be hooked to the exhaust for crank case evacuation. Old PVC vaccum line has been removed.

Turns out there is a new version of software for my ECU so that has to be updated. This one makes me a little nervous. If its done wrong it can end in a no run situation. I'm gona have the FAST techs walk me through this just to be sure.

I think I'll yank the drive slugs from the front axle just to be on the safe side. It would really suck if somebody managed to bump the front axle into gear while it was on the dyno.

Gona have to pull the trigger on some new batteries as well. Mine are just shot. Been looking at some ACdelco batteries. Never used them before but they have a decent guarantee.
 
Just about got everything dialed in for the dyno session.

20 minutes or so, of work left to be done on the second valve cover then the breathers can be hooked to the exhaust for crank case evacuation. Old PVC vaccum line has been removed.

Turns out there is a new version of software for my ECU so that has to be updated. This one makes me a little nervous. If its done wrong it can end in a no run situation. I'm gona have the FAST techs walk me through this just to be sure.

I think I'll yank the drive slugs from the front axle just to be on the safe side. It would really suck if somebody managed to bump the front axle into gear while it was on the dyno.

Gona have to pull the trigger on some new batteries as well. Mine are just shot. Been looking at some ACdelco batteries. Never used them before but they have a decent guarantee.

Die hard platinums from sears FTW!
 
anxiously awaiting the results...and videos!
 
I ended up going with the AC delco batts. Got a good deal on them, had two the exact same size and such.

So, the second valve cover is done and on. Software in the ECU was updated to 2.0 and that went pretty well. Was a little nervous about the flash part but it was pretty straight forward. Crankcase evac was installed and I went ahead and pulled the drive slugs out of the hubs so 4 wheel isn't possible while on the dyno. Batteries are in, tomorrow I'll throw a charger on them and make sure they are topped off and on the trailer it goes.

Hope it all goes well.

OH, and on another note, My brother gave me a Camaro sunday night. Pretty sweet thank you for the help I give him on his Camaro. It's a mid 80's model. No motor or transmission. Good starter spot for some future project.
 

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