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Blazer's 85 Suburban "Twinkie"

Structural engineering question. Do you think the 2 by 4's that are on the bottom that go from truss to truss have anything to do with the strength of the structure ? I only want to take the ones on the last truss so moving on the mezzanine will be easier.

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The truss calcs should show where all mandatory blocking/ bracing, must be installed. If you didn't get the truss engineering pages with your plans I would ask for them from the builder.
 
Structural engineering question. Do you think the 2 by 4's that are on the bottom that go from truss to truss have anything to do with the strength of the structure ? I only want to take the ones on the last truss so moving on the mezzanine will be easier.

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I re read your post.
If you only remove the last tie, you should be ok.the wall has bracing so that truss is fine and the the rest are still tied together so they are fine.
It's not something I want to do anywhere but in this case I think you should be ok.
But definitely look at the truss calcs, better yet post them here so we can look at them
 
Truss calculations do not say anything about being tied together at all.
When they installed the truss they do it as a whole unit all at once. With winches and cables on each post. I think the 2x4's are there to keep them going up as a unit.
 
When the trusses have heavy weight on the top, the bottom will try and flex sideways. Or bow sort of, because it's the path of least resistance. Allowing the top to sag further.
Those longitudinal braces prevent that from happening. You can get away with taking one section out probably. But I wouldn't take them all.

I agree,

The bottom catwalk runs on these trusses typically is part of the design and in snow country is needed. "Typically" the truss engineer will have these drawn in so that the building inspector knows what to look for, in my experience there are a few runs connecting the lower chords of the trussed together to stabilize them. If they assembled the trusses together on the ground and hoisted them up there is a good chance that some of that is not needed. You'll need the stamped engineering plans to know what is needed.

30'X40' sounds awesome, I'm envious.
 
Skip the Mr heater, and go with a reznor.


Not sure what you have picked out. Just throwing that out there lol. Wish I'd have done that my self.

I'm going to get a regular house one, for a small house, and mount it with ductwork when I replace mine.
 
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