International uses rubber bumpers like those on their medium duty trucks. I can't remember what they call them but they ride on them all the time no matter what the load is.
CK5
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budget beater - . . . HOLMES 220 single line boom wrecker install starting ..
- Thread starter sweetk30
- Start date
yep the 2007 gmc 5500 rollback i drove had them and same setup full contact .
well dump insert just wasn't cutting it for capacity . i am no wood worker so i hope this holds together . still needs the 2nd pair of lower corner brackets on the front panel . i made it 3 sections to remove when not needed . 2ft tall by 8ft long and header is 72" wide if i recall .
If you can find a set CUCV sideboards work really well and they go on and off pretty easily
Edit: I have a set on Smokey.
@yellowK20 nice idea but .... i have the dump insert in the box . the setup i make fits in the dump insert .
Well fine then...... lol
upgrade day for the dump insert .
@SpeedlabDan can spot the 1 upgrade
and i added a magnet to the controller and smacked it on the box corner at the rear .
she sits level now . and quiet when lowered and no metal to metal rubbing .
@SpeedlabDan can spot the 1 upgrade
and i added a magnet to the controller and smacked it on the box corner at the rear .
she sits level now . and quiet when lowered and no metal to metal rubbing .
load test the last few days . . . . she passes with flying colors .
well dump insert is out these days and in red/white pickup trailer now for his home .
so i had some extra cash and time and needed a tool box again for basic stuff so i dug out the old BIG box i had on the last truck and cut out the rusted out floor today . then took the sheet of 18ga metal and cut it to size and then went over to a buddy's place and we used his bead roller and some BLUE SHARPIE to do 3 new stiffening ribs in the floor panel . i got back home and dropped it in place and welded it in with 1 dozen small tacks like original was .
all done and installed for service .
so i had some extra cash and time and needed a tool box again for basic stuff so i dug out the old BIG box i had on the last truck and cut out the rusted out floor today . then took the sheet of 18ga metal and cut it to size and then went over to a buddy's place and we used his bead roller and some BLUE SHARPIE to do 3 new stiffening ribs in the floor panel . i got back home and dropped it in place and welded it in with 1 dozen small tacks like original was .
all done and installed for service .
never had this box in a truck box so i didnt realize how BIG it is . makes my long bed a short bed basicly .
also needed to keep stuff from sliding around so used a few scraps of 2x6 o make a storage organizer .
dont know how it did it but the rust stain on the truck box lines up perfect with the tool box . . .but there was no holes for a old box so who knows were it come from .
also needed to keep stuff from sliding around so used a few scraps of 2x6 o make a storage organizer .
dont know how it did it but the rust stain on the truck box lines up perfect with the tool box . . .but there was no holes for a old box so who knows were it come from .
well its time for some R&R on the dana 60 i have not touched since 2001 when i put it in my first square body truck now 3 trucks ago for this axle minus the 1ton i pulled it from .
brake rotors went to crap after almost 20 years plowing / mud times / daily driver / work truck use .
pics to come a bit later . getting ready to get GREASY
brake rotors went to crap after almost 20 years plowing / mud times / daily driver / work truck use .
pics to come a bit later . getting ready to get GREASY
well glad i have a REAL parts washer in the shop . had to wash out the old grease that had almost turn to road tar . last time i was in there was if i recall 2001 or 2002 when i rebuilt the king pins .
right side old rotor was getting crappy . but the left side has parts of the surface GONE . almost 20 years not to bad i dont think .
anyways all washed out / inspected bearings and races and they did NOT need changed ( like most people always want to do on these old style servicable units ) repacked fresh good grease / new seal / installed and the old spicer hubs re-installed and still working fine / caliper slide surface anti-siezed and all ready for the wheel and hand torque the lug nuts to make sure the studs are seated 100% and a few road tests and re-check torque .
going to do the driver side in the am hr's as i am still tired and groggy from the sinus bug that kicked my arss .
right side old rotor was getting crappy . but the left side has parts of the surface GONE . almost 20 years not to bad i dont think .
anyways all washed out / inspected bearings and races and they did NOT need changed ( like most people always want to do on these old style servicable units ) repacked fresh good grease / new seal / installed and the old spicer hubs re-installed and still working fine / caliper slide surface anti-siezed and all ready for the wheel and hand torque the lug nuts to make sure the studs are seated 100% and a few road tests and re-check torque .
going to do the driver side in the am hr's as i am still tired and groggy from the sinus bug that kicked my arss .
well all done and back together . did the road test and re-torque of the lugs 2 times . MUCH better brakes and stops a lot better with real rotors not rusty rotors .
next is pull the 205 off the ORD doubler and tear in to it and reset the idler gear bearing backlash / preload to get ride of my driveline slop / clunk .
then i want to do a ford 1350 superduty c/v shaft in the rear . i have the flange already so its just the shaft / mod the length / reset rear pinion angle .
better rear shock mounts and length of shocks . i only have around 4"-4.5" up travel then bottomed out .
next is pull the 205 off the ORD doubler and tear in to it and reset the idler gear bearing backlash / preload to get ride of my driveline slop / clunk .
then i want to do a ford 1350 superduty c/v shaft in the rear . i have the flange already so its just the shaft / mod the length / reset rear pinion angle .
better rear shock mounts and length of shocks . i only have around 4"-4.5" up travel then bottomed out .
so the time has come i did not think would but a new direction is headed this trucks way .
4 new tires are inbound . 2 new front springs . new rear suspension parts to replace some on the truck now .
oh and the 9ft wide fisher snow plow is now out from looooong term storage and i started a few mods for it . as it was for years un-used / cut pile on the shop floor / frame hanging on the lift waiting for finish clean up of the old skin . then off to the blaster and stop at the local steel shop and get a new 7ga upgrade thickness skin over the stock 9ga skin same basic price and i figure why not . then weld on the new skin and paint .
pic #1 dont do the skin rust out justice . i hit it with a air hammer to pop the rust for a clean plasma cut and i went threw ALL over the place . DO NOT STORE your plow blades like these face down . they hold water all spring / summer / fall and rust out . i didnt as it was like this when i got it .
4 new tires are inbound . 2 new front springs . new rear suspension parts to replace some on the truck now .
oh and the 9ft wide fisher snow plow is now out from looooong term storage and i started a few mods for it . as it was for years un-used / cut pile on the shop floor / frame hanging on the lift waiting for finish clean up of the old skin . then off to the blaster and stop at the local steel shop and get a new 7ga upgrade thickness skin over the stock 9ga skin same basic price and i figure why not . then weld on the new skin and paint .
pic #1 dont do the skin rust out justice . i hit it with a air hammer to pop the rust for a clean plasma cut and i went threw ALL over the place . DO NOT STORE your plow blades like these face down . they hold water all spring / summer / fall and rust out . i didnt as it was like this when i got it .
My 7.5 foot Fisher blade rotted all along the upper edge due to it being stored with the A-frame pointed skyward..
I ran over the dam thing backing up in my driveway one dark night ,and the part with the 3 holes you pin to the truck mount destroyed a near new tire one day when I left it sitting on the ground in its normal position.
...I stupidly left it close to the driveway edge...
So I tipped it up,left it like that over a year..next time I went to use it I could see thru it all along the top..and another spot where the trip spring mount was welded to the skin too..
I used pieces of a 275 gallon oil tank as patch panels,it was thicker than the original metal and already curved,it worked perfect...used my arc welder with 6011 rods and 75 amps to melt it together..
During the last storm in 2015 when we had 12 feet fall between the end of January and April,the plow came off when I was backing away from a snowbank,stopped just in time to not rip the hydraulic hoses right off it..
The A frame on this blade is just 3" channel iron,which was just butt welded to the center pivot point bushing housing,cracked at the welds--I was able to weld it back together,and I wrapped a piece of 1/4" thick flat stock 3" wide around the channel iron and bushing and welded that in good to reinforce it,also added two angle iron cross braces to the triangle part to beef it up better..
This blade has only 3 trip springs--the previous one I had on my '77 GMC had 4 springs,and had a very beefy A frame made of 3/8" angle iron and was braced much better..I'd have kept it,but it was a wider spacing than the mount is on this truck 25" vs 22"..
The Diamond plow on my Suburban is built like a battleship--it has 3/8" angle on the A frame and also has an upper pivot arrangement that is super thick,the blade weighs a lot more than a Fisher too..
I ran over the dam thing backing up in my driveway one dark night ,and the part with the 3 holes you pin to the truck mount destroyed a near new tire one day when I left it sitting on the ground in its normal position.
...I stupidly left it close to the driveway edge...So I tipped it up,left it like that over a year..next time I went to use it I could see thru it all along the top..and another spot where the trip spring mount was welded to the skin too..
I used pieces of a 275 gallon oil tank as patch panels,it was thicker than the original metal and already curved,it worked perfect...used my arc welder with 6011 rods and 75 amps to melt it together..
During the last storm in 2015 when we had 12 feet fall between the end of January and April,the plow came off when I was backing away from a snowbank,stopped just in time to not rip the hydraulic hoses right off it..
The A frame on this blade is just 3" channel iron,which was just butt welded to the center pivot point bushing housing,cracked at the welds--I was able to weld it back together,and I wrapped a piece of 1/4" thick flat stock 3" wide around the channel iron and bushing and welded that in good to reinforce it,also added two angle iron cross braces to the triangle part to beef it up better..
This blade has only 3 trip springs--the previous one I had on my '77 GMC had 4 springs,and had a very beefy A frame made of 3/8" angle iron and was braced much better..I'd have kept it,but it was a wider spacing than the mount is on this truck 25" vs 22"..
The Diamond plow on my Suburban is built like a battleship--it has 3/8" angle on the A frame and also has an upper pivot arrangement that is super thick,the blade weighs a lot more than a Fisher too..
New front springs for weight?
figured why not use these on winter mods for tires on the extra rims i have to put the new bridgestone blizzak tires LT 265/75/16 lr-E .
just need to measure the hole size for the 60 hub to pass threw and open the 2 front holes up my my friends lathe . they never did these caps in a k30 size that i know of . i scored these years ago at the local pick-n-pull from a 3/4 ton suburban .
just need to measure the hole size for the 60 hub to pass threw and open the 2 front holes up my my friends lathe . they never did these caps in a k30 size that i know of . i scored these years ago at the local pick-n-pull from a 3/4 ton suburban .
prob about the same just height change .
so i was digging for rims and found 4 88-98 rims and tried them hub caps and they didnt fit good to the point i would not trust them unless i bend all the tabs for more grip . i even tried them on some 73-87 rims and same .
but i did notice i have 4 16x7" 4 tab rims from a FORD ( popular swap for FAT rim ) in stock and i have seen our gm caps fit them ford rims good . . . so i might be keeping the dog dish caps and going ford rims .
and i did get my other 3 tires today so when i figure out the rim combo its game on . and leaf springs show monday delivery . . . i hope .
but i did notice i have 4 16x7" 4 tab rims from a FORD ( popular swap for FAT rim ) in stock and i have seen our gm caps fit them ford rims good . . . so i might be keeping the dog dish caps and going ford rims .
and i did get my other 3 tires today so when i figure out the rim combo its game on . and leaf springs show monday delivery . . . i hope .
