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Building Blazer still

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You may end up wanting a swaybar, perhaps front and rear?

really it's sort of preference but a good sway bar can be designed and installed that won't limit articulation but will help with cornering.

Honestly I would talk with Stephen at ORD for a swaybar. It's extremely tedious work to get one designed and spec'd correctly but he's done a great job so far for our race car.
 
Mine sways just fine. Don't need bars that make me sway more. Anti sway bars would be nice. But I am too lazy to get out and disconnect them before wheeling.
 
Do you think the Chevy / GMC AntiRock Sway Bar Kits from Tellico4x4.com will work? It is just a Universal Currie Antirock® sway bar kit. Will the Currie Antirock® sway bar kit work for our K5's? They were originally made for Jeeps and not full sized rigs. Thanks for your thoughts.
Another option I guess is to just get stiffer coil springs if needed, will that work for me? I am not racing other than Mud Bogs & Rock Crawling.
 
The lower Links still have not come in yet to get the wheels back on to see where i am at with the body roll.
I am going down and buying my tubing & sheet metal on Monday to start my fenders. I need to get the Areomotive fuel cell mounted and fuel lines ran to get it moving again! I hope fuel line parts get here today! The CNC cutting brakes should be here today also. I have a week before I have to go back to work & I still want to get a couple of snowmobile rides in if we get some snow, where can I buy some time?
I need to move the batteries to the rear, finish the roll cage, install the winch, make front bumper, install seats, the list is long!
 
ktmoutfront said:
Mine sways just fine. Don't need bars that make me sway more. Anti sway bars would be nice. But I am too lazy to get out and disconnect them before wheeling.
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Correctly done Anti Sway bars don't need un hooked before wheeling. Run them front and rear on the race car and have full articulation. :waytogo:

There is a lot in the design of a good anti sway bar system. The off the shelf pieces are good, but there is better. Also I have heard several guys talk about breaking their bars and saying well it lasted two years so I guess that's good. It's not, you can easily over stress a bar and thus shorten the life of the bar and break it.

You can counter sway with stiff springs and or stiff shock valving. but the ride quality suffers. A sway bar simply adds spring rate by twisting to reduce body roll but in a situation where both tires are traveling up and down at the same speed it just sits there and has not input.
 
I know. I am just too lazy to get in and design some. The back would not be as bad as the front. Its just finding the time and spending the bucks.
 
So is there some kind of formula to get the correct Anti-Sway bar so I do not "over stress a bar and thus shorten the life of the bar and break it:doah:" or should I just contact ORD when I am ready.
 
Going to end up somthing like this with another Ammo box on the other side of the fuel cell. I should have it done tomorrow.

Fuel 6.png
 
Raiderblaz said:
So is there some kind of formula to get the correct Anti-Sway bar so I do not "over stress a bar and thus shorten the life of the bar and break it:doah:" or should I just contact ORD when I am ready.
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Yes there is, honestly it's way over my head in the engineering sense. Stephen is the engineer in the family, I'm the construction guy.

We each stick to our expertise so I would say talk with him. He will need spring rates, angles, etc but like I said he did a good job on the ones we run on the race car.

Keep in mind the parts are "cheap" it's the brain power to get a correct setup that is expensive.:doah:
 
The Aluminum Links finally got here :woot:. I got them from Summit Machine out of Draper Uath. They are sweet! I will have the tires on it tomorrow and back on the ground.

Al Link 3.png

Al Link 1.png

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