Keep in mind that the top plate is different between the two different front ends. The diesel one for Nightmare could be a very rare one!
CK5
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I could build one i suppose.
If i could source one even new id much rather deal with something that drops right in.
If i could source one even new id much rather deal with something that drops right in.
http://www.hillbillywizard.com/ They have all the stuff to do the diesel radiator swap in Plan B, but not sure how it works on the round eye front clip.
I have the diesel (6.2L) radiator, kinda. It's actually a 90s 454 radiator with the same dimensions, 34"x19" core. It's much less expensive than a true 6.2L radiator as they're only available in brass (at least that I found). Mine is aluminum with plastic tanks.
It worked fine with the factory 6.2L radiator brackets. As @ZooMad75 mentioned, not sure how that'll work in a 70s truck. You may be better off fabbing your own.
It worked fine with the factory 6.2L radiator brackets. As @ZooMad75 mentioned, not sure how that'll work in a 70s truck. You may be better off fabbing your own.
Im going to measure what i have i know its pretty big. I wonder how much of a difference a larger radiator would make.
Wider makes more difference than thicker.
@kgblazerfive and @blazinzuk are telling me i need an aluminum radiator vs my brass....
Let the debate begin!
Let the debate begin!
For what reason? I did it due to cost.
They said it cools better.
Im not going to really think about it to much more until i check my timing and move that trans cooler.
I found time and checked my timing. Im a little surprised.
So remember i have a punched out big block with a pretty large roller cam, different crank, domed pistons (i know im at least 10:1, huge valves so this isn't your typical off the shelf 454
I unhooked my vacuum advance, plugged it and the hose going to it. Hooked on to #1 and turned my idle to 700....
Im at 23 degrees at 700rpm and 40 degrees at 3,000-3,300.
I was expecting 16 and 36....
Now the hotrod guy that installed it (after all that warranty work) never told me what timing was set at but he said "trust me this is what this truck needs"
Im being told to go up as high as 38 at idle and 44 cruising by guys on the fuel injection forums
So remember i have a punched out big block with a pretty large roller cam, different crank, domed pistons (i know im at least 10:1, huge valves so this isn't your typical off the shelf 454
I unhooked my vacuum advance, plugged it and the hose going to it. Hooked on to #1 and turned my idle to 700....
Im at 23 degrees at 700rpm and 40 degrees at 3,000-3,300.
I was expecting 16 and 36....
Now the hotrod guy that installed it (after all that warranty work) never told me what timing was set at but he said "trust me this is what this truck needs"
Im being told to go up as high as 38 at idle and 44 cruising by guys on the fuel injection forums
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I have my stock 454 idle at 24° advance. If you check a TBI350 timing at idle with the computer controlling timing, you'll see around 30° (if you're timing marks go that high).
There's a lot of knowledge gap about timing at idle. Vacuum advance should be connected to manifold vacuum for one thing. In essence the ported vacuum port promotes a hot combustion chamber at idle, this was done in the early emissions days to bandaid other problems. Manifold vacuum will pull in the vacuum timing on the distributor to boost you initial timing for a cooler combustion chamber at idle. Both ported and manifold pull in the vacuum advance at steady cruise, which is the other time the engine needs lots of timing advance.
As an example my 66 doesn't even have a ported vacuum port.
There's a lot of knowledge gap about timing at idle. Vacuum advance should be connected to manifold vacuum for one thing. In essence the ported vacuum port promotes a hot combustion chamber at idle, this was done in the early emissions days to bandaid other problems. Manifold vacuum will pull in the vacuum timing on the distributor to boost you initial timing for a cooler combustion chamber at idle. Both ported and manifold pull in the vacuum advance at steady cruise, which is the other time the engine needs lots of timing advance.
As an example my 66 doesn't even have a ported vacuum port.
No comment until the trans cooler is moved. That is soposto be first.
No one is allowed to comment until it is moved that is...........
I will call @Can Can is anyone comments.
That is the rule.
the order
is trans cooler moving- see what temp is.
then change timing if it is still hot
then change to a aluminum radiator
then burn it cuz there is nothing left.
No one is allowed to comment until it is moved that is...........
I will call @Can Can is anyone comments.
That is the rule.
the order
is trans cooler moving- see what temp is.
then change timing if it is still hot
then change to a aluminum radiator
then burn it cuz there is nothing left.
Lol i didn't touch anything i just read the numbers so we knew what at they were... food for thought.
I'll try to do that cooler tomorrow or next week
I'll try to do that cooler tomorrow or next week
Check this out...
If i got way crazy i could stick my old 14" fan in there... its just sitting in there. Its not attached
If i got way crazy i could stick my old 14" fan in there... its just sitting in there. Its not attached
Hmmm i have always been told to unhook the vacuum and plug it....
I use a digital timing light so i just adjust it up and down and look for zero on my balancer. I could read up to 99 degrees if i wanted
Since i moved my trans cooler can we talk timing ?
Ill test it next time its over 90 outside
Nope, not until you get a temp reading.
No added the other fan either.
One step at a time.....
One step at a time.....
I just set it in there to see if it fits. Its back on the shelf.
I did notice something. I have 3 fan clutches for this truck, they all spin pretty easy with some resistance.
I just checked out the fan cluch on PB and i can bairly spin it...
To be honest id love a fan clutch that was almost solid for this rig.
What i dont understand is howthey have the same part number but the stock one on the white truck seems way more solid...
I am just thinking outloud, do you think the 6.2 fan clutch would be any more firm ? One with less slipping would definitely spin faster at idle....
They should be thermostatically controlled.
The one on Nightmare is fine, I checked it when I was there. It should have some resistance but not free spin.
If you run it in hot weather and the engine is hot. Then you shut it off and check the fan it should not want to spin at all. If it spins really easy as in the smae as when it is cold then that may be an issue.
How ever doesn't matter until you run it, now with the trans cooler moved.
..........one step at a time.......
If you run it in hot weather and the engine is hot. Then you shut it off and check the fan it should not want to spin at all. If it spins really easy as in the smae as when it is cold then that may be an issue.
How ever doesn't matter until you run it, now with the trans cooler moved.
..........one step at a time.......
