DavidB
1/2 ton status
How's the project coming miniwally?
You keeping my brother in line up there?
You keeping my brother in line up there?
CK5
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Building the Ultimate GM vehicle
- Thread starter miniwally
- Start date
I wouldn't say in line but he is pulling the line so far.
I just got done talking to him a bit ago. I guess Willard is coming along just a bit slower than they would like. I told him he should get his butt out of the office and in the shop to help get the thing done.
The build ended up being Ford 60 front with yukon shafts and dedenbear knuckles, ARB with 5:13 gears
14 B rear with detroit and 5:13 gears.
63" leafs in the rear
custom leafs in the front
crossover, hydro assist
shortened and tubed rear
internal cage
454 out of the parts pile
4L80 from a buddies wrecked truck
doubler
42" iroks on some wheels
the rest is really basic chevy truck junk
Truck leaves in 7 days for UA
I just got done talking to him a bit ago. I guess Willard is coming along just a bit slower than they would like. I told him he should get his butt out of the office and in the shop to help get the thing done.
The build ended up being Ford 60 front with yukon shafts and dedenbear knuckles, ARB with 5:13 gears
14 B rear with detroit and 5:13 gears.
63" leafs in the rear
custom leafs in the front
crossover, hydro assist
shortened and tubed rear
internal cage
454 out of the parts pile
4L80 from a buddies wrecked truck
doubler
42" iroks on some wheels
the rest is really basic chevy truck junk
Truck leaves in 7 days for UA
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Cool! Sounds very similar to my project. Picking it up tomorrow.
Pics?
Pics?
K10ANDYKHAMNIC
1/2 ton status
you dont have the proper security clearance for pics .
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Yeah, well my Wymore stick, er staff is bigger than your ORD staff. But not as cool, I'm sure. 
RGV72BLAZER
1/2 ton status
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miniwally said:
luuuucky...tell him i'd love to have his job & would love to have the job of beating the crap out of a rig built by ORD
Likely the strongest, cheapest, and most effective way to deal with the issue of building the ultimate GM vehicle would be to build something like this...and stick the GM emblem of your choice on the finished product. 
RGV72BLAZER
1/2 ton status
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2006
- Posts
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78Buford said:Likely the strongest, cheapest, and most effective way to deal with the issue of building the ultimate GM vehicle would be to build something like this...and stick the GM emblem of your choice on the finished product.
now that's the funniest thing i've heard all month I forgot to mention, that with the $$ saved by starting with a stout product to begin with, there should be enould $$ left over for a balding driver to buy some Rogaine, or a nice hairpiece. Obviously, I spent the extra dough on beer.
Roy
Roy
Blazr77400
1/2 ton status
I know its a little late, but how about something like this. The black on the fenders is tube.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
RGV72BLAZER said:
why?
460..very comaparable to a 454 noteable issues with both
c-6 straight across compares to a t-400
divorced 205..same
high pinion drivers side dana 60...WINS
Dana 60 rear...almost at the same level as a 14 bolt/comparable
great unique 2 year body style, and unique simple no bs interior
Id say one of the most beefy plateforms to start with
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Super 75 is right. My brother runs a F D60 in his K10. BUT it's still a FORD. Just kidding...the only downside is the older chevys are more popular and parts are more plentiful and cheaper. I may end up with a F D60 under mine if I can get one. Just gotta change the case to ford or late model chev.
Just kidding...the only downside is the older chevys are more popular and parts are more plentiful and cheaper. I may end up with a F D60 under mine if I can get one. Just gotta change the case to ford or late model chev.
Emmettology 101
3/4 ton status
I'm suprised no one mentioned this truck:
Do we get to see any sneak pics?miniwally said:
supersize75k5 said:why?
460..very comaparable to a 454 noteable issues with both
c-6 straight across compares to a t-400
divorced 205..same
high pinion drivers side dana 60...WINS
Dana 60 rear...almost at the same level as a 14 bolt/comparable
great unique 2 year body style, and unique simple no bs interior
Id say one of the most beefy plateforms to start with
Thanks for the kind words Super75k5...I didn't really expect anyone on here to agree with me.
The rear is a D70-U...the one with the super smooth bottom. Ring gear is 10.54" w/ 35 spline axles. A couple of the bearings inside aren't as large as a 14 bolt (I think) but otherwise, they are basically equals in terms of strength.
The steering box setup on these era Ford F250/F350 trucks have a boxed frame and 4 large bolts that run through both sides. The box/frame in this area of the truck is notably beefier than a Bronco/F150 of the same year. A buddy of mine (6.2Blazer) has had some problems with his K5 frame in this area, even with extra bracing & weld on brackets. Recently, I found a 3/4" long hairline crack starting to form on mine...I quickly had it "V'd" out & welded. Do K30 GM models have a beefier frame/steering box setup than a K5/K1500?
Chevy/GM definitely has some advantages over the late '70's Fords because the run of similarly built trucks '73-'87, actually to 1991 with the K5. I personally haven't had any problems finding parts/spares for my rig, but years from now it may be an issue.
Roy
I the 1-tons are any different. I have the front 1/3 of a m1008 (military K30) in our yard, and it doesn't look any different than my K5. The only thing it could possibly have is thicker frame. If it's different, it's not obvious.
What did you do to the door? Some sort of reinforcement bars?
What did you do to the door? Some sort of reinforcement bars?
The original doors on the truck were wheeled for about 18 months. In November of 2004, on the "Mud Slalom" hill at the KY Outback Park, I crushed the passenger door so bad that it broke the window (which was rolled down).
I found another set of good solid doors and installed them. I knew they would get ruined if I didn't do something. I'm not much of a fab guy, so I thought of something simple, basic, ugly, and functional...kinda blends right in with the rest of the truck.
I bought some 1"x1" square tubing that is 11 gauge (I think). I used this on the recessed body line of each door, and one more of these pieces near the bottom, where it is recessed somewhat. The rest of the strips (5 or 6...have to count them in the pictures) is 3/4"x3/4" 11 gauge tubing. I had these cut & welded to the doors with many welds...every inch or two for strength. Most of the pieces were cut at a 45 degree angle on the ends (to allow them to "slide" past trees & rocks. A few of them were installed with square ends, and I used a grinder/cutting wheel to make them approximately 45 degree ends, and finished grinding them down so they weren't sharp.
It looks butch, but I'm not joking when I say that it is one of the best mods I have done to the truck. I can't weld worth a shiznit, so a buddy did a few of the strips, and I had the local exhaust shop weld the rest of them on. I have hit the doors HARD on many things, had the truck on it's side (pictures are somewhere on this board) on a ride with 6.2Blazer and JK5 from this board last fall, once I hit the door so hard against a tree that it literally pushed the cab inwards nearly an inch...and the doors still stayed straight.
The doors are heavy, and the driver door bushings are getting worn out from all the weight, but it has been 18 months and I can deal with door bushings instead of replacing doors every few months. Later tonight, I'll try to find a picture of the doors with only one or two strips on them...you can see the tubing a little better because the doors used to be red & white.
Roy
I found another set of good solid doors and installed them. I knew they would get ruined if I didn't do something. I'm not much of a fab guy, so I thought of something simple, basic, ugly, and functional...kinda blends right in with the rest of the truck.
I bought some 1"x1" square tubing that is 11 gauge (I think). I used this on the recessed body line of each door, and one more of these pieces near the bottom, where it is recessed somewhat. The rest of the strips (5 or 6...have to count them in the pictures) is 3/4"x3/4" 11 gauge tubing. I had these cut & welded to the doors with many welds...every inch or two for strength. Most of the pieces were cut at a 45 degree angle on the ends (to allow them to "slide" past trees & rocks. A few of them were installed with square ends, and I used a grinder/cutting wheel to make them approximately 45 degree ends, and finished grinding them down so they weren't sharp.
It looks butch, but I'm not joking when I say that it is one of the best mods I have done to the truck. I can't weld worth a shiznit, so a buddy did a few of the strips, and I had the local exhaust shop weld the rest of them on. I have hit the doors HARD on many things, had the truck on it's side (pictures are somewhere on this board) on a ride with 6.2Blazer and JK5 from this board last fall, once I hit the door so hard against a tree that it literally pushed the cab inwards nearly an inch...and the doors still stayed straight.
The doors are heavy, and the driver door bushings are getting worn out from all the weight, but it has been 18 months and I can deal with door bushings instead of replacing doors every few months. Later tonight, I'll try to find a picture of the doors with only one or two strips on them...you can see the tubing a little better because the doors used to be red & white.
Roy
The picture of the red/white door was taken in/around January 2005. I was taking the pictures of the 42" tires installed with zero lift at the time. Since then, it has been lifted approximately 2". Notice how the strips if tubing were welded: Weld on top, move over an inch on the bottom, weld there, back to the top, move over an inch & weld. The doors did get a couple minor "heat warps" when the strips were welded to them, but the link I'll post in a minute tells the tale better than words.
The red/white doors are the same ones that are on it to this day. Keep in mind that picture was taken over 18 months ago. The pictures in tghe link were taken in May of 2006....I think most of them are on pages #2, and #3 of the link.......and it looks the same right now. If anyone is considering this "mod," I would definitely recommend it for those that arent concerned about weight.
The simplest way to put it? Look at how trashed (dented & mangled from rocks/trees, etc) the body of the Ford is....and note that the doors are still quite straight.
The red/white doors are the same ones that are on it to this day. Keep in mind that picture was taken over 18 months ago. The pictures in tghe link were taken in May of 2006....I think most of them are on pages #2, and #3 of the link.......and it looks the same right now. If anyone is considering this "mod," I would definitely recommend it for those that arent concerned about weight.
The simplest way to put it? Look at how trashed (dented & mangled from rocks/trees, etc) the body of the Ford is....and note that the doors are still quite straight.
One of these should work....most of the pictures are on page two & three:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173250
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173250&page=2
Roy
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173250
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173250&page=2
Roy
Have to admit that the reinforced doors are holding up pretty decent, and really don't look too bad either. Pictures don't do the body damage any justice on this truck......any other part of the body on this truck has been extremely mangled, pounded out, and remangled several times, so the fact the doors are still pretty staight is a great testament.
