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Building the Ultimate M1008 *Beadlocked 42's w/ pic's**

I'd bend it using heat. Obviously you'd be building it from scratch because it'll be longer than what you have, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Looks like you could have 16-18" of straight from the arm inwards on both sides. Heat a section about 4" long til it's bright red and bend to 45 degrees or less. Wait for it to cool and repeat the opposite bend, then do the next two. Tap the ends or use the weld on ends and you'd be in good shape.

Rene
 
Hydro assist ram attached to it would do the trick...:D

Jam nuts on the TRE's should keep it in line, as well as not getting too carried away with the offset.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
as well as not getting too carried away with the offset.

Rene
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That's gonna be the trick. IMHO you might as well bend it down if you've got the room. Otherwise I can see it flopping forward onto the axle and it might eventually catch on something.
 
The bend would be pretty much the same no matter what, it's just going to depend on how Jeff decides to orient it. I found my 'bent' draglink from ORD required a bit of fiddling with to get to sit right too.

Rene
 
I know, I'm just saying you might as well start with the "offset" portion lower than the rest of it, because it'll probably end up there anyways. :D
 
tRustyK5 said:
I'd bend it using heat. Obviously you'd be building it from scratch because it'll be longer than what you have, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Looks like you could have 16-18" of straight from the arm inwards on both sides. Heat a section about 4" long til it's bright red and bend to 45 degrees or less. Wait for it to cool and repeat the opposite bend, then do the next two. Tap the ends or use the weld on ends and you'd be in good shape.

Rene
Click to expand...


Lots of OEM applications have a bent tie rod. Jeeps, broncos, super duty's, heck even unimogs have that set up. Just watch to see if its continues to bend while weeling (a slight bend can make for a lot of clearance). Also remember that as you turn the tie rod moves away from the pan so just make sure it works when the wheels are straight and you are good to go.
 
I went ahead and ordered a stock location tie rod from ORD yesterday 1 1/2" x .375 wall. I will deal with the high steer after BB. I also got my brake lines in from Black widow performance and will put those on tonight:D

28" front and 24" for the rear:wink1:

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stallion85 said:
I went ahead and ordered a stock location tie rod from ORD yesterday 1 1/2" x .375 wall. I will deal with the high steer after BB. I also got my brake lines in from Black widow performance and will put those on tonight:D

28" front and 24" for the rear:wink1:
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im running his 36" brakelines in the front and i love them!
 
Brake lines installed. Took me a littl longer with the rear due to the fact the M1008's have some weird valve going to the rear brakes. I dismantled the atrocity and hooked up the rear line without too many problems:)

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Finished the rear suspension today. Yea, no more rivets to grind out. Those things are the FN devil:mad:

I have a totally greasable suspension from the front to rear thanks to ORD. If you are building something on a deadline they are the people to talk to. They knew exactly what I needed and had the parts to me within 2 days everytime I ordered from them:D

I still need to button up a few things in the rear, but at least it is off the jack stands.

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mikey_d05 said:
If you still haven't gotten something figured out a couple weeks before the bash, send me a PM, I'll take my ORD tie rod and ends off and ship it to you, then you can just ship the assembly back whenever you get your hi-steer problems figured out.
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Mikey, thank you for the offer. That was very generous of you. I ended up buying a tie rod from ORD and will just sell it when I figure out the high steer tie rod:wink1:
 
If i remember right he built it himself so when flexed it didnt twist the springs.

Id be interested in your tie rod as long as its not bent when your done with it!!!
 
Citizen Rider said:
If i remember right he built it himself so when flexed it didnt twist the springs.

Id be interested in your tie rod as long as its not bent when your done with it!!!
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You are correct about the spring mount except i didn't build it. A friend of mine made it for his K5 and couldn't use it when he went to disc brakes. The purpose behind it is to prevent spring bind and twist whuch limit articulation.

The rear suspension should flex like a MOFO:D
 
Im really interested to see how that works. I got 10 bucks that if it does real well it will be the next ck5 trend/fad like the caddy motors, 52's , narrowing etc. but ya like you said it should flex like a mofo.
 
I am deffintly interested in seeing how these spring mounts work... would your friend be interested in making them in quanity???
 
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