CK5
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Built White truck A.C, links and coilovers (35 PSI boost!)

2-4wheel 4BT conversion
Not really, it does what it was designed to do. most parts from the 6BT fit so thats handy. The other option would be the ISB4.5, Im sure the P7100 pump has been put it.

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Power plant seems to scoot the truck along quite nicely. Any idea where you are hp/torque wise?



Edit: found answer earlier in thread.

This is my plan, I got it from 4BTswap.com. 200hp 4BT Recipie

This is the performance point that most people are interested in. So here is a simple plan for 200hp at the crank at ~3000rpm.
You'll want one of the following turbos: HX30-6cm (even 40mm intake version will do). HE221-6cm (7cm will do too) TD04HL-19T Set the wastegate to 22psi which you should reach by a bit over 1500rpm.
You'll need a medium sized air/air intercooler. Doesn't need to be huge but does need to not strangle the engine. Your air filter and intake needs to handle 350CFM (25 lb/min).
Your injection pump will need to deliver ~120-130cc/1000 shots. All of them can do this. You can find this point by tuning in EGT or A/F or by asking a pump shop to set it at that point. You will also need the 3200rpm governor spring.
Peak boost and torque are expected around 1500rpm and peak power around 3000rpm. This gives you a nice wide power band for good drivability. Peak torque will be around 600Nm from a bit over 1500rpm to a bit over 2000rpm.
 
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Power plant seems to scoot the truck along quite nicely. Any idea where you are hp/torque wise?



Edit: found answer earlier in thread.
I've never had it on a Dyno, I've advanced the timing, turned all of the screws but haven't found the sweet spot that will maintain pyro Temp under 1200
on long Highway hill climb. It did improve when I swapped out the HX35 for the super HX30, The plan is to take it to a diesel shop that can fine tune it.
 
I've never had it on a Dyno, I've advanced the timing, turned all of the screws but haven't found the sweet spot that will maintain pyro Temp under 1200
on long Highway hill climb. It did improve when I swapped out the HX35 for the super HX30, The plan is to take it to a diesel shop that can fine tune it.


Time for twins? :whistle: ... Really cool truck man.
 
Knowing what you are going through, I think that "rebuilding suspension" doesn't quite do it justice.
 
Knowing what you are going through, I think that "rebuilding suspension" doesn't quite do it justice.
Yeah your probably right but I don't like to much frosting, Does replacing suspension sound better? :surepal:
 
I'm thinking the A.C compressor should be in place before I start fabricating anything in the engine bay, this is the mount I'm looking at. Badger refrigeration is very helpful. "Custom Mobile Heating & Air Conditioning Systems | Badger Truck Refrigeration" https://www.btrac.com

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After trying cave man method of fitting the frame plate around the brake line and shock mount nipple I decided to use a dimple die I've never used, pretty sure a nipple is the other side of a dimple. The steering gear box did move forward a little.

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I'm thinking the A.C compressor should be in place before I start fabricating anything in the engine bay, this is the mount I'm looking at. Badger refrigeration is very helpful. "Custom Mobile Heating & Air Conditioning Systems | Badger Truck Refrigeration" https://www.btrac.com

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Ok so I’ll preference my comment with I am no where near and expert on anything related to a 4BT. However after seeing the image with the mounting bracket for the compressor it reminded me of something.

Back in my workhorse days we did have a option for the 4BT in a step van. Very rarely did they get ordered with ac too. However I got asked to go check out a step van with a 4BT and ac. Problem was the compressor bracket would have the bolts back out due to the paint shaker engine rattling them out.

A lot of it had to do with the fact the mounting bolts for the bracket to the engine only went in one direction just like the design above. Loctite was not enough. I had to go take pics and shoot them back to engineering. They were trying to to come up with a support bracket that came off the front and could add support to the mount.

One other option we talked about was replacing the 4 bolts with studs and prevailing torque lock nuts. The mechanical locking nut holds better than a split lock washer under the head of a bolt.

Food for thought.
 
Ok so I’ll preference my comment with I am no where near and expert on anything related to a 4BT. However after seeing the image with the mounting bracket for the compressor it reminded me of something.

Back in my workhorse days we did have a option for the 4BT in a step van. Very rarely did they get ordered with ac too. However I got asked to go check out a step van with a 4BT and ac. Problem was the compressor bracket would have the bolts back out due to the paint shaker engine rattling them out.

A lot of it had to do with the fact the mounting bolts for the bracket to the engine only went in one direction just like the design above. Loctite was not enough. I had to go take pics and shoot them back to engineering. They were trying to to come up with a support bracket that came off the front and could add support to the mount.

One other option we talked about was replacing the 4 bolts with studs and prevailing torque lock nuts. The mechanical locking nut holds better than a split lock washer under the head of a bolt.

Food for thought.
I agree brackets need to have bolts in 3d not just one plane.
 
No idea if it would help on those, but I've found that RTV actually works better than loctite in high vibration places.
 
Ok so I’ll preference my comment with I am no where near and expert on anything related to a 4BT. However after seeing the image with the mounting bracket for the compressor it reminded me of something.

Back in my workhorse days we did have a option for the 4BT in a step van. Very rarely did they get ordered with ac too. However I got asked to go check out a step van with a 4BT and ac. Problem was the compressor bracket would have the bolts back out due to the paint shaker engine rattling them out.

A lot of it had to do with the fact the mounting bolts for the bracket to the engine only went in one direction just like the design above. Loctite was not enough. I had to go take pics and shoot them back to engineering. They were trying to to come up with a support bracket that came off the front and could add support to the mount.

One other option we talked about was replacing the 4 bolts with studs and prevailing torque lock nuts. The mechanical locking nut holds better than a split lock washer under the head of a bolt.

Food for thought.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll consult the supplier. I agree lock nut has more value than a washer, kid at work looked at me weird when I told him a lock washer doesn't have any value on top of a flat washer. :haha:
 
Caterpillar runs no split lock washers on anything. They just run a flat washer that I have heard has a slight cup to it when installed in the correct direction and acts as a lock washer.
 
First tube needs little tweaking but fits, the second one will be higher and in front of this one. The offset should make it stronger. The axle is higher than it needs to be but I'm keeping expectations high. the new lower radiator hose fitting is a piece of artwork.

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