CK5
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Camaro my Brother gave me
- Thread starter cybrfire
- Start date
Big steps! I'm excited for you at how close you are getting.
Is that actual ride height? When the time comes I would start with a much lower IC with your setup.
Is that actual ride height? When the time comes I would start with a much lower IC with your setup.
Rear may come down some but its pretty darn close.
I have a baseline IC in the puter but wont have a really good place to start till i can scale it. Its pretty light and low so you may be right. Lots of tuning passes.
I built my toe in adjuster last night and today at noon. Of course there will be jamb nuts on there yet.
I was just judging by your bar angles, no computer necessary to get closer than that.
What anti-roll setup you using for the rear suspension?
What anti-roll setup you using for the rear suspension?
I think ill make my own. Not to complicated.
Elec. Panel will have a plexi cover to prevent accidental shorts if a tool wrre to be dropped.
Got a few things sorted out today.
Going to do data logging direct to laptop.
LED headlights in for the return road.
Rear shocks are in.
Gas pedal hanging and brake pedal stop is pretty much done.
Going to do data logging direct to laptop.
LED headlights in for the return road.
Rear shocks are in.
Gas pedal hanging and brake pedal stop is pretty much done.
What did you do with all the stock parts you removed?
Martin
Martin
Tried to sell them for forever and a day. Ended up going in the scrap.
Ah, I wish I would have known.
Martin
Martin
Hood arrived and was returned and now the right hood has arrived. Mistakes were made however, glasstek took care of it and got the correct hood to me.
Hood is approx. 5" to long which is great! width is very close.
Hood is approx. 5" to long which is great! width is very close.
vandelay industries
1/2 ton status
This is a dumb question, but can a unibody car be fitted with a tube frame without cutting the floor out? Or is it just easier/more practical to cut the floor entirely out?
I suppose it could be. Problem you'll run into is weldint the top of the cage and consequently. The bottoms of any tube joint. There are some ways around that. If youre looking to save weight, factory floor has got to go.
What gauge is it?
Do you have an NHRA tech that can confirm your cert before you paint/coat/assemble the whole thing? It's probably fine but if you missed something you'd rather know now when it's easy to fix than have them say you have to replace a bar or something when it's all done.
8.50 cert is relatively simple, SFI is more complicated as you know...
Just be careful, some tracks require all the safety gear for a cert, even if you don't go that fast. For example, if you get a 6.00 cert they might require you to have a hans device and fire suppression system even if you don't go that fast. Might want to ask the track you frequent, it could get more expensive than necessary...
8.50 cert is relatively simple, SFI is more complicated as you know...
Just be careful, some tracks require all the safety gear for a cert, even if you don't go that fast. For example, if you get a 6.00 cert they might require you to have a hans device and fire suppression system even if you don't go that fast. Might want to ask the track you frequent, it could get more expensive than necessary...
