What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

carps 89 K5 build (how not to put a k5 on a trailer)

Well, I already installed a prop. valve in the rear line where you rear brake line connects with the hard line. Haven't had to adjust it so far, but I think my combination valve on the front crossmember might be bad though. It pulled to the right when braking hard before I swapped the new axles and couldn't figure it out. Now, it still does it. But the only thing I haven't replaced is the combination valve and the mc
 
Also, thanks to whoever I heard about the airsoft pellets from cuz this thing drives like a caddy now (a caddy with a 9in lift:D, but still very good)
 
The airsoft pellets are used to balance the wheels/tires, you put them into the tires before you mount them to the rim. correct me if im wrong.
 
well, mine were already mounted on the rims so I just broke the bead with my hi-lift and poured them in, then pumped them back up
 
you should only need a adjustable prop valve if you have too much pressure going to the rear brakes. most of the time there isn't enough and you need a bigger master cylinder.

with that long of a shackle in the front you may get some sway. get we get some close up pics? why all the stacking of blocks in the rear?
 
YZEATER said:
why all the stacking of blocks in the rear?
Click to expand...

x2, you're scareing me with those. I assume that is a zero rate, a shim, and a block? At the very least, pull out that shim and turn your blocks around. Especially with the angle of the shim pointed one way and the angle of the block pointed the other, I'm worried they will squirt out from under your springs.

It is a very nice looking truck BTW. Subscribed.
 
sorry for the delayed response. I've been busy. Can't find my digital camera or I'd get some close up pics. See if I can do it tomorrow. but I am running zero rate, degree shim, and an 1 1/2in block. I had to run them like that to get the right angle for my rear pinion. I actually had to put my 6in shackles back in the rear (trying to get my ride height level) so I swapped the 6 degrees out for the 4 degrees to keep the angle approx. the same. Nothing's going to squirt out though cuz I got a driveline shop in ATL to send me some of their custom center alignment bolts to go through the spring pack. They have a head that's twice as long so it'll go through the shim and still reach into the block they're sitting on. BUT, I actually put them through the zero rate in the 1in. offset spot and cut them off. That way I can I push my axle back to try and correct for the forward placement resulting from the shackle flip. I've been running the 7.25 shackles in front for a couple years I haven't had any problems yet (hopefully I won't have any in the future). I did have to put some 6 degree shims in the front though to tilt the front pinion back up.
 
here's an up close picture of my zero rate, block and shim. I don't believe they'll be any problem cuz of the longer alignment bolt heads

109_0290.JPG

109_0292.JPG
 
When I had it turned around the other way, the angle on the pinion was a whole lot less creating a vibration. The 2 angles of the driveshaft did not match. So I turned it around the way you see it now (before the shim) and the angle was too severe, so I had to put a 4 degree shim I had in my garage to get the angles pretty close
 
Sharp looking truck man. I missed this build somehow. I agree with the others. Figure out your angles and get the correct angle set up on the rear. Even with the longer center pins thats a lot of torque on them. Are those aluminum shims? Gotta watch those too cause they'll split at the pin and the big end will fall out. Maybe save up for a CV shaft and point the pinion at the T-case. Usually a shackle flip will get you pretty close to that angle. Or lose the shim and go with a 7.5 inch shackle maybe depending on your shackle angle now.

I am in the middle of the same battle with rear driveline/pinion angles. It is a PITA. I am to the point where I am getting a CV shaft and cutting then rewelding the perches. permanent fix.
 
yeah they're aluminum. I'll let you know if they fail. I don't think they will (hopefully the won't break at an inoppurtune moment). I really want to SYE my NP241 and do the CV thing like you're talking about. But I'm gonna have to save up for that.
 
Got a little bored and antsy cuz I 'm waiting on my front driveshaft to be retubed so I tested a little flex and if my shotty fender trimming was enough

109_0295.JPG

109_0296.JPG

109_0298.JPG
 
Ordered my SYE for my NP241 and also ordered a 1350 high angle CV driveshaft from High Angle Driveline. Seemed like good people there. Can't wait for it all to get here. Was gonna spend some of my tax money on bumpers and winch for my K5, but decided on the SYE and high angle CV. Figured I'd rather drive without vibration and have a stronger driveshaft than winch and bumper. That might be my next project
 
So that would be about a 950 on a 30* RTI ramp.:D Nice looking rig though. you will be happy with the SYE & HAD shaft - I am with mine.:wink1:
 
actually I think about 960:wink1:. Thanks for the compliment man I've put alot time in like alot of guys on here and it's been a BEOTCH doing it by myself
 
Know what you mean. Let us know how you like those meats for the street. i want to find something to keep from wearing the swampers so bad on the road, and I would like some radials.:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom