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Caster on D60

Z71paramedic

Z71paramedic

Wait....What???
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So I'm finally getting close to being "done for now" on my blazer (at least until we move). Taken it for a few drives and overall I'm very pleased. I did however get a wee bit-o death wobble the other day. I rechecked all my u-bolts, bearings, tie rods etc and the only thing I found to raise any concern is my caster angle appears to be at 10*. I got this from putting my angle meter on top of the steering arm. I have crossover/highsteer and new kingpin springs/cups. I know I should put on a steering stabilizer, but was just curious if that caster angle would be adding to the problem? Any help is appreciated as always.

DSC_0146.jpg
 
Iirc, my 91 GM manual says 8°-11° positive caster.
 
nvrenuf said:
Iirc, my 91 GM manual says 8°-11° positive caster.
Click to expand...

Ok. I had read some stuff on pirate saying 6* positive... It certainly doesn't drive weird when it's not doing it. Turns nice and whatnot. I guess I'll just get a couple steering stabilizers and see if that helps. I really don't want to spend the money on hydro assist at the moment, maybe I will after we move and shipping doesn't suck so bad.
 
You might try checking the tire balancing. Seems like deathwobble is always on the big bias ply tires for some reason.


-Brian
 
I never had an issue running these tires before on the 1/2 ton axles with push/pull steering though:confused: Seems odd. Plus, like I said it rides nice until I hit a dip with the RF tire and then it does it pretty bad. It's odd...
 
If it's only on the right front tire, you could try swapping the front tires and see if the wobble moves over to the other side. My theory is that the more flexible sides of the big bias ply tires contributes to it. I have smaller radial tires and never get any kind of wobble even without a dampener.


-Brian
 
bp71k5 said:
If it's only on the right front tire, you could try swapping the front tires and see if the wobble moves over to the other side. My theory is that the more flexible sides of the big bias ply tires contributes to it. I have smaller radial tires and never get any kind of wobble even without a dampener.


-Brian
Click to expand...

I might give that a go tomorrow. These tires always ran nice and smooth before. I'm sure the extra lift added to deeper offset rims isn't helping anything either. I did have dual steering stabilizers before also.

On a side note, I can't believe a set of dual steering stabilizers is almost $200!:eek1: This damn truck wants to kill me, one way or another...:doah:
 
The more positive the camber, the more stable the tires.
Disclaimer: I'm not familiar with your method of checking it, but in order for that to be accurate the steering arm would have to be exactly 90* angle from the top of the spindle.
Caster is the relation in degrees from the top of the spindle to the bottom. as if there was a line through the joints. Usually from what I've seen, most people get death wobble due to caster after they lift the truck and have to tilt the pinion up to compensate for pinion angle. Resulting in bringing the caster to close to negative. Caster needs to be measure on both wheels. Even though it's solid axles with no adjustments.

A steering stabilizer is always suggested because it helps control the vibration of the tires much like a shock stops the vehicle from bouncing.
 
How do you recommend checking it at home? I had just set an angle finder on top of the highsteer arm... if this is incorrect let me know.

It's times like this I wish I still worked at Goodyear:rolleyes:
 
Z71paramedic said:
How do you recommend checking it at home? I had just set an angle finder on top of the highsteer arm... if this is incorrect let me know.

It's times like this I wish I still worked at Goodyear:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

If your steering arm is consistant thickness like most are, your method for checking should be just dandy.

By not consistant thickness meaning some sort of taper from one end to the other or something like that.
 
Thanks Kert:thumb: they're straight.

I got a dual stabilizer kit waiting to be picked up from napa in the AM. We'll see if that helps the situation.
 
I think your caster is on the maximum end of the spectrum but as stated, more should feel more stable yet requiring more effort to turn and by the same token, returning to center more rapidly. I usually shoot for 8*. I can't say i've ever drove a rig with 11*.

In some cases I think the springs simply can't handle the larger heavier tires.
 
cybrfire said:
I think your caster is on the maximum end of the spectrum but as stated, more should feel more stable yet requiring more effort to turn and by the same token, returning to center more rapidly. I usually shoot for 8*. I can't say i've ever drove a rig with 11*.

In some cases I think the springs simply can't handle the larger heavier tires.
Click to expand...

Roger that. Are you talking about the kingpin springs or leafs here? The KP springs are new from ORD. The leafs may be on the soft end. They're actually for a toyota... But they seem to hold the weight of the truck well.


The wheel is easy to turn even while not moving and it tracks straight/has mo memory steer. The DW seems to happen right around 30 mph.
 
10* is a bit excessive.

I had that same amount and pulled it back to about 6* by installing shims (backwards) and a set of conical washers to maintain proper clamping of the upper plates.... You install the shims to rotate the pinion UP if you are trying to reduce the caster angle.

DW is a tough one. I've had it with small radial tires and large bias ply tires...and all new D60 kingpins, bushings, etc. hydro assist eventually masked it well enough for me.

No magic bullet to fix it... You can reduce or hide it with hydro assist or steering stabilizers.

-G
 
Greg72 said:
10* is a bit excessive.

I had that same amount and pulled it back to about 6* by installing shims (backwards) and a set of conical washers to maintain proper clamping of the upper plates.... You install the shims to rotate the pinion UP if you are trying to reduce the caster angle.

DW is a tough one. I've had it with small radial tires and large bias ply tires...and all new D60 kingpins, bushings, etc. hydro assist eventually masked it well enough for me.

No magic bullet to fix it... You can reduce or hide it with hydro assist or steering stabilizers.

-G
Click to expand...
Thanks Greg. It's got some shims in there now. I need to figure out what angle they are and order a new set accordingly. Already have the conical washers too:thumb: I'll get the stabilizers from napa today and see if that doesn't help out too.
 
Did you replace the axle joints when you did the rebuild? I had a sticking u-joint that had similar intermittent symptoms. I have crossover steering (no highsteer) and no stabilizer like you.
 
randy88k5 said:
Did you replace the axle joints when you did the rebuild? I had a sticking u-joint that had similar intermittent symptoms. I have crossover steering (no highsteer) and no stabilizer like you.
Click to expand...

Yeah, when I got the axles I replaced kingpin springs/bushing, bearings, axle joints, spindle bearings and hubs.
 
Z71paramedic said:
Roger that. Are you talking about the kingpin springs or leafs here? The KP springs are new from ORD. The leafs may be on the soft end. They're actually for a toyota... But they seem to hold the weight of the truck well.


The wheel is easy to turn even while not moving and it tracks straight/has mo memory steer. The DW seems to happen right around 30 mph.
Click to expand...

I was refering to the king pin springs.

Whats the thicknesses on each end of the shim and length of the shim? I'll figure the degrees for you.
 
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