1008's are long beds and the SM465 swap is fairly easy
CK5
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ck5 alaska trip-july 1 2011 to july 11 2011
- Thread starter sledheadak
- Start date
SCK5Blazer
1/2 ton status
Looks like a great time and I wish I could go...long ride from SC though, made that trip 3 times when I was a kid. First time was crammed in a u-haul moving up there in the early 90's, not a fun trip from what I remember. I pretty much grew up in AK, then moved back to NC to start 10th grade. We lived up in Two Rivers out near Chena Hot Springs the longest and for awhile in North Pole and Salcha, I think I'm spelling it right...step-dad was USAF. Maybe one day I will get to make the trip up again and re-experience it post teen...and hopefully before I'm 35 hah. Ever since watching the Chevy/Ford/Dodge AK challenge episode of Top Gear I've had the itch to get up there and do some wheeling.
I would just do the swap on what you have now. CUCV's always need work, the 24 volt system can be a wiring nightmare from 25 years of people messing with it, so you may end up converting it. All the seals tend to go bad really quick from sitting in motor pools for months and months, even years without moving. I wouldn't pay more than 3k for an immaculate CUCV.
I disagree, even at 4000.00 a CUCV is hard to beat , it already has 4.56's Detroit in the rear and a great engine, trans, and t-case. and while they may be "GI Miles" there still low miles and fleet maintained.
DokWatsons truck is prime example, all it took for it to be bad ass was some 42" TSL's a 6" lift ,crossover steering ,and a winch.
with a CUCV your always money ahead because your not spending money to beef up your drivetrain its already tough
DokWatsons truck is prime example, all it took for it to be bad ass was some 42" TSL's a 6" lift ,crossover steering ,and a winch.
with a CUCV your always money ahead because your not spending money to beef up your drivetrain its already tough
sixb
1/2 ton status
I keep looking in here for some trip pictures but all is see is a bunch of 6.2 diesel talk ug!
Where are the pictures
Where are the pictures
Drive up to blazinzuk's and light a fire under his butt lol
Crossover Kit $468.00
Steering Box $170.00
U-Joints $108.00
TRE's, Tie rod, Stabilizer $300.00
King pin rebuild $67.00
Bearings $17.00
Front Drive Shaft $625.00
Starter $100.00
Highlift $75.00
Exhaust $200.00
Those are just the big things. Still not including over hauling the glow plug system and starter wiring, fluids, random seals, spare parts. They need work. Thats why I think it would be easier to start with an already maintained rig and swap things over.
Pookster
1/2 ton status
You can look for a 93 6.5TD pickup.
Disadvantages: IFS
Advantages: Its pretty much the 6.2- but with still the mechanical pump, 6.5L, and a turbo. they do use a electric fuel pump though, but your good without the PMD. You can get the NV4500 with the retard low first gear (only made two years, 92 and 93), mated to a 241. I believe the gmt400 platform was available in a 1 ton starting 92., and 92/93 was the Turbo diesel transition year. A relatively simple truck. I've driven it without a dash board or dash indicators. Lol.
You get all the classic GM saggy headliner BS, the GM smells, and so on.
But parts are cheap. Is a SFA totally necessary in a SHTF? I personally don't think so. I've gotten caught up on a front diff multiple times. IFS doesnt have that problem. I don't know how often you'd "hard core" wheel in that kinda situation. I'd rather have a plow. Push cars off the road, etc. good for making a path.
other tibits:
diesel #1 is pretty much kerosene. You can pump some in your tank to prevent the diesel #2 from jelling. The key is of course, to fill your tank in the winter when you get up there- and thereby diesel #1. You can also use anti geler stuff (powerbooster, 911 medic, etc).
As far as starting- the 6.2 will start in really cold temps. it does need all 8 glow plugs glowing though, *and* I highly suggest synthetic diesel oil.
Synthetic diesel oil is 5w40- or 0w30 (for you artic circle guys). The viscosity at cold is very easily flowing- 15w40, standard dino diesel oil- will be like molassis. making engines incredibly hard to start. Its a present from Ol hilter's science labs. It will remove a lot of the strain on the timing chain. Mercedes benz did some study and found that cars in cold places had up to several inches of chain stretch- where as cars that were never turned off (cabs) had almost no chain stretch. They also found that cars which then used synthetic motor oil (we're talking diesels with high compression), had little or no chain stretch or failure. Just food for thought.
If you really want it to start:
Dual battery warmers, block heater, coolant passage heater.good glow plugs, 0w30 diesel rated synthetic oil, #1 fuel, and a shot of anti gel.
Disadvantages: IFS
Advantages: Its pretty much the 6.2- but with still the mechanical pump, 6.5L, and a turbo. they do use a electric fuel pump though, but your good without the PMD. You can get the NV4500 with the retard low first gear (only made two years, 92 and 93), mated to a 241. I believe the gmt400 platform was available in a 1 ton starting 92., and 92/93 was the Turbo diesel transition year. A relatively simple truck. I've driven it without a dash board or dash indicators. Lol.
You get all the classic GM saggy headliner BS, the GM smells, and so on.
But parts are cheap. Is a SFA totally necessary in a SHTF? I personally don't think so. I've gotten caught up on a front diff multiple times. IFS doesnt have that problem. I don't know how often you'd "hard core" wheel in that kinda situation. I'd rather have a plow. Push cars off the road, etc. good for making a path.
other tibits:
diesel #1 is pretty much kerosene. You can pump some in your tank to prevent the diesel #2 from jelling. The key is of course, to fill your tank in the winter when you get up there- and thereby diesel #1. You can also use anti geler stuff (powerbooster, 911 medic, etc).
As far as starting- the 6.2 will start in really cold temps. it does need all 8 glow plugs glowing though, *and* I highly suggest synthetic diesel oil.
Synthetic diesel oil is 5w40- or 0w30 (for you artic circle guys). The viscosity at cold is very easily flowing- 15w40, standard dino diesel oil- will be like molassis. making engines incredibly hard to start. Its a present from Ol hilter's science labs. It will remove a lot of the strain on the timing chain. Mercedes benz did some study and found that cars in cold places had up to several inches of chain stretch- where as cars that were never turned off (cabs) had almost no chain stretch. They also found that cars which then used synthetic motor oil (we're talking diesels with high compression), had little or no chain stretch or failure. Just food for thought.
If you really want it to start:
Dual battery warmers, block heater, coolant passage heater.good glow plugs, 0w30 diesel rated synthetic oil, #1 fuel, and a shot of anti gel.
Aubrey my point is if you had built your stepside you would have to add buying 1-tons and re-gearing and locking them to that list, not to mention you would have all the same wiring and maintenance issues with it. and a weaker frame.
and all these Solid axle GM's are over 20 years old now so finding one thats "well maintained" for an affordable price is getting harder and harder .
and all these Solid axle GM's are over 20 years old now so finding one thats "well maintained" for an affordable price is getting harder and harder .
I see what you're saying. Just making sure he knew what he might be getting himself into if he sold his truck for a CUCV
LOL your troubles were caused by the previous owner not the military !!
Mine had the best of both worlds. Military hack job wiring, and the PO 'fixing' ****
DrkZide
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I see what you're saying. Just making sure he knew what he might be getting himself into if he sold his truck for a CUCV
Hmmm......definitely something to think about considering the maintenance I've already done on this truck and the fact that something new breaks every two weeks. I didn't even know there was a frame difference between the two.
