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Clunky rear end

Spot on mixing rubber and poly mounts not kosher.

The Advanced Adapters, t case adapter you linked needs a bearing and the trans to t case coupler which they want $165 for above the $300 for trans to t case adapter, + still needs a bearing.
 
Well I guess I need to replace the motor mounts then. I wasn't aware of that mixture being a no no.

So I'll shop for motor mounts unless you guys want to link a recommendation
 
I drove it around the block after I changed the oil this morning. Seems ok if not smoother. I could never figure out why the engine had a shake to it. Well now it's gone and looks normal, while at idle..



Keep in mind, I don't have the years you guys have under your belts with these trucks. I've only had the Blazer for 4 years and older Chevys for roughly 6 years and learning the whole way.

The first two didn't need much work. The Blazer has needed a lot as did the '69 c10. So I appreciate the patience and support.
 
Glad to hear it's way smoother. Go for a putt down a local wash get the hubs locked 4w low and see how it feels. Give it work out

X2 on the competition motor mounts. Or diy's I used theirs
:waytogo:
 
I've had this rubber motor mount and poly tranny mount for few years now.

Is it that the rubber ones have more give or play and poly ones are more firm, causing an imbalance?

Swapping to ORD motor mounts just use some ply-wood and lift the engine up by the pan, or what's the process.. I guess I'll start a new thread when the motor mounts arrive
 
Whats a bigger priority?
New motor mounts or getting the 205/th350 adapter?

Funds are getting tight, so. My 203 works and I figure the adapter can wait.

$270 for a used adapter or $25 more and get the ORD version minus bearing?
www.offroaddesign.com

TH350/205 Adapter housing

TH350/205 Adapter housing
www.offroaddesign.com www.offroaddesign.com
 
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New motor mounts. I'm not convinced that there is anything wrong with the 203. It could last till your kids inherit.
If you have stock exhaust manifolds, I like to use a 2x4, prop it on the manifold outa the way with a floor at the bottom. Don't need lift very high to this job.
If you are running headers then the back of the block.
Or lift with hoist.
You can just an engine support to raise it up as well.
Avoid using the oil pan, you bend it it'll leak.
 
Well, lucky I wandered in here, then.

The next thing I was going to suggest is to have somebody else rock between D and R while you look underneath.
 
Blue85 said:
Well, lucky I wandered in here, then.

The next thing I was going to suggest is to have somebody else rock between D and R while you look underneath.
Click to expand...
Yeah for sure, hahah. I could have sworn I checked them but... obviously I didnt.
Appreciate it..
 
Wes Harden said:
New motor mounts. I'm not convinced that there is anything wrong with the 203. It could last till your kids inherit.
If you have stock exhaust manifolds, I like to use a 2x4, prop it on the manifold outa the way with a floor at the bottom. Don't need lift very high to this job.
If you are running headers then the back of the block.
Or lift with hoist.
You can just an engine support to raise it up as well.
Avoid using the oil pan, you bend it it'll leak.
Click to expand...
Headers, I have the engine hoist. Will it work with the lift and tires?

Also what needs disconnecting? Nothing or just slightly raise the engine and replace them.
 
Wes Harden said:
New motor mounts. I'm not convinced that there is anything wrong with the 203. It could last till your kids inherit.
If you have stock exhaust manifolds, I like to use a 2x4, prop it on the manifold outa the way with a floor at the bottom. Don't need lift very high to this job.
If you are running headers then the back of the block.
Or lift with hoist.
You can just an engine support to raise it up as well.
Avoid using the oil pan, you bend it it'll leak.
Click to expand...
I'm still going to snag a 205 just so I have one as they don't come around all that often.
 
I just saw this. I should have it, finding it is the issue. I'm still unpacking my shop. @TJ1978
 
TJ1978 said:
Yeah for sure, hahah. I could have sworn I checked them but... obviously I didnt.
Appreciate it..
Click to expand...
I had it in my head that you had already checked the mounts or maybe I assumed it - either way glad it is much better now.

Watch your distributor to firewall clearance when you change out the mounts while lifting the motor and fan to shroud clearance as well. Only lift the motor as much as needed and most all other parts and pieces give decent clearance.

Since you have time now be on the lookout for deals and bargains on going to a 205 or if the 203 is in much better shape than once thought run it until the cows come home and put that money to other uses.
 
I'll be posting mounts in the other thread. But yes, I don't have much of any wiggle room between firewall and distributor. So I'll take the cap off when I do it
 
Just loosen it, also take the top 2 bolts out of shroud and pull it lose.
I do 1 side at time, bolt the engine half tight, leave the frame side slightly loose. Let the engine settle in maybe rock it with a bar, the tighten both frame side mounts
 
Wes Harden said:
Just loosen it, also take the top 2 bolts out of shroud and pull it lose.
I do 1 side at time, bolt the engine half tight, leave the frame side slightly loose. Let the engine settle in maybe rock it with a bar, the tighten both frame side mounts
Click to expand...
Top two bolts in the shroud? What's that and where
 
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