CK5
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Crew cab. Use it or lose it.

I've used it that way in the past as well. Not quite as nice as a weather pak but when that won't work....
 
If I can talk Tracy into grabbing some hardware locally, I'll have them up tomorrow night!
 
Cool, looking forward to seeing it setup. I am still thinking this is the way to go on mine, but I may have to look at some mud/salt protection.
 
OK, here's the vid,




Now, here's the bad part with these things. The control panel wiring is very weak. There are Red led's above each of the numbered buttons on the control panel. They no longer light when the presets are selected. The wires are coming out of the back of the control panel. Both harnesses have come apart already.

That being said, there are 3 more wires that can be used to signal the "brain" to go to a preset. Momentary buttons would have to be used to supply a ground pulse to make it shift.

Anybody know how to design a circuit that will give me an indicator light with some momentary buttons? Ryoken???
 
OK, here's the vid,




Now, here's the bad part with these things. The control panel wiring is very weak. There are Red led's above each of the numbered buttons on the control panel. They no longer light when the presets are selected. The wires are coming out of the back of the control panel. Both harnesses have come apart already.

That being said, there are 3 more wires that can be used to signal the "brain" to go to a preset. Momentary buttons would have to be used to supply a ground pulse to make it shift.

Anybody know how to design a circuit that will give me an indicator light with some momentary buttons? Ryoken???



Thats Bad Ass Kert!!
 
Nice! :D

Wiring it with just momentary buttons would/will be stupid easy, making the LED stay lit after the fact might not. There's no feedback provision to the switch unit in that system, and it stays lit based on which button was pushed last.

I'll take a look at it on Saturday.

EDIT: Nevermind, I suck at reading, I'll do some homework on it.
 
Only thing I can think of at the moment is to disect their control panel and attempt to bypass the lousy connector. The panel itself seems OK, but the wires just don't stay in the plug.

If I decide to forgo the indicator lights, may as well see what's going on in there.
 
A latching relay would work for the indicator lights but seems like overkill.


care to elaborate? Never heard of it that I know of.

EDIT,

OK, so latching relay, once switched it will hold that position until polarity is reversed to shut it off. Killing power to it is not enough but reversing the polarity would push the contact apart shutting off the indicator light.

Sound right?
 
That works sweet, and looks and sounds cool as well. :waytogo:

I had been thinking of an indicator setup, but stopped when I saw the LED's on the controllers, guess I will reconsider. My idea had been just to use simple reed switches with a magnet mounted to the actuator arm, when it hit a postion that reed switch would turn on a light. It would also ensure that each one was fully engaged by the time it lit.
 
care to elaborate? Never heard of it that I know of.

EDIT,

OK, so latching relay, once switched it will hold that position until polarity is reversed to shut it off. Killing power to it is not enough but reversing the polarity would push the contact apart shutting off the indicator light.

Sound right?

You don't necessarily need to reverse polarity to unlatch it. The basic premise is that you use the momentary button to activate the relay, and activation of the relay also provides 12V to the coil to keep it activated once the momentary button is off. Then you need another button (for another position) to open the 12V to the coil. I'll see if I can whip up a little diagram tomorrow if somebody else doesn't chime in first.

I like lectric80's idea of having the indicator light based on a position switch instead of a command switch. That way you avoid the situation of having the indicator say you are in gear because you pressed the button, but somehow the actuator didn't get there.
 
That works sweet, and looks and sounds cool as well. :waytogo:

I had been thinking of an indicator setup, but stopped when I saw the LED's on the controllers, guess I will reconsider. My idea had been just to use simple reed switches with a magnet mounted to the actuator arm, when it hit a postion that reed switch would turn on a light. It would also ensure that each one was fully engaged by the time it lit.

That's how Ford did it in their electrically shifted t-cases of the era... you know, mine never gave me problems and I abused the hell out of it. The hubs are what got me(auto hubs).
 
You don't necessarily need to reverse polarity to unlatch it. The basic premise is that you use the momentary button to activate the relay, and activation of the relay also provides 12V to the coil to keep it activated once the momentary button is off. Then you need another button (for another position) to open the 12V to the coil. I'll see if I can whip up a little diagram tomorrow if somebody else doesn't chime in first.

I like lectric80's idea of having the indicator light based on a position switch instead of a command switch. That way you avoid the situation of having the indicator say you are in gear because you pressed the button, but somehow the actuator didn't get there.


Cool, I'd certainly appreciate a diagram.

We had talked about some type of sensor on the shift rails as well to indicate position. Down fall there is more electronics outside the cab. Something to think about though.
 
With my design, using a plastic box, you could have it waterproof by just sealing the wire output, and it is a pretty simple and inexpensive setup. I am going to be using a similiar setup when I change my dash out for new Autometers, to indicate the gear selection, although it will be in cab.
 
With my design, using a plastic box, you could have it waterproof by just sealing the wire output, and it is a pretty simple and inexpensive setup. I am going to be using a similiar setup when I change my dash out for new Autometers, to indicate the gear selection, although it will be in cab.

Ya run out of room real fast for things like boxes and such. For now the plan is to forget the indicators and use momentary buttons for inputs.
 
How much space is actually between the actuator arms? I haven't been looking at mine for a while so it isn't very clear to me right now. One box would allow both arms to activate their own set of switches, and it shouldn't need to be real big.
 
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