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Cricket in new engine

mrk5

mrk5

The Sticker Guy
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My new engine is making a sound like there's a cricket in it. Would like to hear any thoughts.

Disregard the oil on the ground in video 1; that's due to a leaky F550.



I had been hearing something for a bit but it sounded like a belt. There are no other indications something is awry.

Today I pulled all of the accessory belts and there was no change. I unbolted the torque converter and there was no change.

I listened around the engine with a contact stethoscope. I can here it pretty much anywhere I touch the block. I feel like it's louder near the bellhousing.

The engine has about 600 miles on it. I changed the oil at 500 and the noise had started before that. The oil looks okay. There maybe a very, very small number of tiny bits of metal. I didn't see anything on the drain plug. I'd like see if I can cut the filter open tomorrow.
 
If you get bored, pull the dizzy and spin the pump. Maybe also shut the fuel of and turn it over with the starter and see what you hear

But if you think it’s in the lower back part of the engine, it probably is
 
Does the noise increase with RPM? Though certain light noises will get drowned out by the engine as the RPM increases. How's the oil pressure?

I'd really be curious what's inside that filter.
 
Does the warranty cover replacement if it’s not installed by a shop?
 
I pulled one plug at a time and found my noise (I should say the main one)... loosen them first, then maybe you won't get zapped like I did...twice.

I also changed the oil and filter...
Isn't that your new engine from atk?
 
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So when you pull that dizzy check it. Some of the imported billet distributors aren't all that.
 
ktmoutfront said:
Pull 1 plug wire at a time and see if the noise changes.
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TJ1978 said:
I pulled one plug at a time and found my noise (I should say the main one)... loosen them first, then maybe you won't get zapped like I did...twice.
Click to expand...
So I need to pull the wires while the engine is running? This is a good idea as I feel like there's some chance it could be valve adjustment.

Isn't it possible to tell by the frequency of the noise occurrence whether it's a crank noise versus valve train noise?


TJ1978 said:
I also changed the oil and filter...
Isn't that your new engine from atk?
Click to expand...
I was thinking I might change the filter again depending on what I find in the filter from the change 100 miles ago. Yes this is my new ATK engine. Hopefully it's something simple.


ZooMad75 said:
Does the noise increase with RPM? Though certain light noises will get drowned out by the engine as the RPM increases. How's the oil pressure?

I'd really be curious what's inside that filter.
Click to expand...
It does increase with RPM. Oil pressure is great. It runs a touch over 60psi above idle and 30psi at idle. That's with 10w30 oil. The break in oil was straight 40 weight and pressures we 45 at idle and over 60 at higher rpm (factory gauge tops out at 60).

Bent77 said:
Does the warranty cover replacement if it’s not installed by a shop?
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That is my concern. At the very least it might make arguing more difficult. However, if I can't figure something out, I'll take it to the mechanic we use for the company vehicles. I think he would back me up if it turns out to be something not due to a mistake by me.
 
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mrk5 said:
So I need to pull the wires while the engine is running? This is a good idea as I feel like there's some chance it could be valve adjustment.

Isn't it possible to tell by the frequency of the noise occurrence whether it's a crank noise versus valve train noise?
Click to expand...
If you can count the difference. Pulling a plug wire while running also takes the compression fire load off of a piston, wrist pin and rod bearing. So the sound should change.

I hate to be the one to say it, sounds like bottom end bearing of some kind. Thrust, crank, rod....? Which ever it is, it is nothing you did. Bad build. 5% rule. 5% of everything is built poorly.
 
@mrk5
Yes pull wires while it's running from distributor. It takes the explosion out of the cylinder, so if it's cylinder specific you'll know right away.

For example:
 
The cam is spinning 2x faster than crank speed. So if it’s the cam or a cam bearing or a lifter you would have a noise that’s double in frequency than the crank.

You would hear cam noise more at the top side of the engine. A main or rod bearing noise would be heard all over but more noticeable from underneath.

The description of the noise as a chirp or squeak reminds me of LS engines where a roller on a lifter is frozen and no longer rolling. The sliding action emits a chirp or a squeak type noise. This was a roller cam setup if I remember right. Seems odd if a brand new one would fail, but stuff can happen. If you do feel it’s going in that direction it’s pretty easy to pull the intake and get a visual on the lifter and cam.
 
I did see other forums mention a stuck roller. In some respects that wouldn't surprise me because the cam is what held up getting the engine. Might have gotten a questionable cam or lifters due to lack of choice.

I'm afraid it's something on the crank too. Especially since it seems to reverberate thru the entire block via the stethoscope.

This is another good example of finding several forum posts of people having the same problem but never posting with the solution was. Except for the obvious ones that we accessory belt related.
 
No solutions today.

I did figure out the noise only comes in once the engine temp reaches 110°F. Unfortunately that only served to give me momentary false hope.

The noise persisted no matter which plug wire I pulled.

Filter I took out at 500 miles looks fine.

It was making noise before I changed the filter. I'm pretty confident the noise had been around for at least 250 miles by the time I changed the filter. When I found the dust cover half falling off and rubbing on the flexplate, I thought that was the noise I'd been hearing. I remember that was at 250 miles.
 
you know what grins and giggles re torque the trans bell housing bolts. Also check the bell housing for a crack.
 
I haven't looked up around the flexplate so I could definitely check that.

Also not hard to recheck the bellhousing bolts.

Been trying to think of stuff that could be rubbing. That was a common issue on some other forums.
 
In the mean time, I'm thinking about just driving this thing while I keep looking for problems. I could pull the oil filter currently on the motor, inspect it for metal, and if it looks okay just keep driving it.

Thoughts?
 
Have you called the builder about it?

It is not normal, so I wouldn't. But if it has to be full failure to warranty, then drive it.
 
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