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D44 Dana 44 & 14BFF 14 Bolt Full Floating Rebuild (Complete!)

Yeah I'm no physics major but I was pretty sure that 1 foot of cheater bar didn't magically equal 100ft lbs of torque...:haha:And I noticed tonight that the old guy left his big ass 1" drive torque wrench out in our shop. Didn't check the ft lbs on it, but that thing is like 4ft long. Which is good because now I don't have to attempt professor Ira's math equation...:crazy: (Which I do appreciate you posting.:waytogo:)

As far as the dial type inch pound torque wrench goes, Jon how much did you pay for yours? I wish I could find a cheapy type... all the dial type ones seem to be going for around $170 as Brian mentioned...:crazy:

Is there any way I can do it with a clicker type? Or just by torquing the pinion nut to a certain spec? It's not like I'm going to be setting gears up every day or anything...
 
Got a little done tonight.

Tore the carrier down... Dear God what a mess...:doah:

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Got the two halves cleaned up, and I got the pinion and bearings back in the pinion retainer.

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What a beautiful sight.:D
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And a pic of the leftovers... covered in what appears to be mudgrease... it's a compound word I created to describe the lubricants I found in the carrier...:D
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Only problem I ran into tonight was removing the carrier bearings... They are being a PITA. I thought I'd take a look at Yukon's clamshell puller (the one billavista uses in his write up) I was figuring $100-$200 it's a pretty nice looking piece... umm nope. $482 for that thing...:eek1: Can anyone recommend any other type pullers? The 2 and 3 jawed ones I tried tonight did not do the trick.:(
 
mr.smartass said:
Yeah I'm no physics major but I was pretty sure that 1 foot of cheater bar didn't magically equal 100ft lbs of torque...:haha:And I noticed tonight that the old guy left his big ass 1" drive torque wrench out in our shop. Didn't check the ft lbs on it, but that thing is like 4ft long. Which is good because now I don't have to attempt professor Ira's math equation...:crazy: (Which I do appreciate you posting.:waytogo:)

As far as the dial type inch pound torque wrench goes, Jon how much did you pay for yours? I wish I could find a cheapy type... all the dial type ones seem to be going for around $170 as Brian mentioned...:crazy:

Is there any way I can do it with a clicker type? Or just by torquing the pinion nut to a certain spec? It's not like I'm going to be setting gears up every day or anything...
Click to expand...

If it is a 4 footer it is probably a 600 ft-lbs.

As for using a clicker it wont work you need a dial or the old school beam type will work also.

You could use the equation and use an extension to make the wrench effectively shorter (the equation works both ways) to measure your preload. Some more math for you 1 ft-lbs = 12 in-lbs now calculate away.

It might be tough with your abacas:haha:

Dik
 
I'm pretty sure the Chinese use the abacas... we just use our fingers and even our toes if it gets real high... :haha:

I know it sounds like common sense... but I didn't think inch pounds converted to foot pounds like that... I guess I learn something new every day...:doah::haha:

I was thinking a beam type torque wrench earlier, plus I could score one of those for $20 or less! Wouldn't be as accurate but it should be close enough right? Do they make an inch pound beam type, or would I just have to convert from foot pounds?:confused:
 
mr.smartass said:
I'm pretty sure the Chinese use the abacas... we just use our fingers and even our toes if it gets real high... :haha:

I know it sounds like common sense... but I didn't think inch pounds converted to foot pounds like that... I guess I learn something new every day...:doah::haha:

I was thinking a beam type torque wrench earlier, plus I could score one of those for $20 or less! Wouldn't be as accurate but it should be close enough right? Do they make an inch pound beam type, or would I just have to convert from foot pounds?:confused:
Click to expand...

Yep they make them but you can also convert it with a ft lb. I used a beam type inch pound to set mine up. I don't think there is much difference in a small ft-lb or an in-lb beam type as far as price.

Dik
 
A google search shows a beam type 0-60 in-lb is about $40 and the dial type 0-300 is around $160:eek1:. But the 0-300 can also be used for up to about 25 ft-lbs accurately so it is almost like 2 torque wrenches in one:D

Dik
 
mr.smartass said:
I'm pretty sure the Chinese use the abacas... we just use our fingers and even our toes if it gets real high... :haha:

I know it sounds like common sense... but I didn't think inch pounds converted to foot pounds like that... I guess I learn something new every day...:doah::haha:

I was thinking a beam type torque wrench earlier, plus I could score one of those for $20 or less! Wouldn't be as accurate but it should be close enough right? Do they make an inch pound beam type, or would I just have to convert from foot pounds?:confused:
Click to expand...

I scored a new/unused Snap On for a pretty good deal, but accidentally got the 0-50 lb/FT, not the inch/lb wrench. I'm trying to sell that one now. I got a used CDI dial-type that reads 0-30 in/lbs for like $75 I believe.
 
Mine is a CI also I think. It does 0 - 150 in lbs.
I used to do a lot of gear work when I was in Illinois so it has paid for itself a few times over.

For the carrier bearings use a clamshell puller, and a little heat if needed.
The good thing is that the 14FF has no shims behind the carrier bearings (unlike a D60) so you can destroy the bearing and not need it for a set up bearing.
 
Harbor Freight list is growing... wish we had one here in town. Going to pick up the SIL from the airport on Thursday, hope she doesn't bring to much luggage... I'm gonna be doing a little shopping. :D

New torque wrench, probably going to be a beam type, one of the small presses that uses a bottle jack, 12 ton or so... dial indicator and magnetic base, and then whatever else I think I might need. I love new tools!:D

Since I'm picking up a press, shouldn't I be able to just get a bearing splitter of some sort, and just press the bearing off?:confused:
 
Yeah, I bought a HF bearing splitter and had to grind the thing so that the edges were fine enough to grab the bearing. It worked, but was ghetto.

If you don't find a torque wrench that will work for you, let me know.

As far as a press, I would recommend no less than a 20T
 
readymix said:
Yeah, I bought a HF bearing splitter and had to grind the thing so that the edges were fine enough to grab the bearing. It worked, but was ghetto.

If you don't find a torque wrench that will work for you, let me know.

As far as a press, I would recommend no less than a 20T
Click to expand...

My 12-ton works fine for pressing the bearings on my 10-bolt...Do you really think the added expense of the 20-ton is necessary?
 
readymix said:
You will be able to use the 20T for more things than the 12T
Click to expand...

Well, that's always true... just wondering how much he'd actually use it. I got the 12-ton because I don't foresee myself doing a lot with it. Luckily they have decent resale value, so I'd get most of my money back to put toward a bigger one--if needed.
 
Bah, no pics... I did get the new carrier bearings on though. After breaking 2 new bearing pullers, I found a small 2 jaw puller that is older than me, made of real steel though, not that cast sh!t that kept breaking on me. Cut the cage off the bearings with a grinder and the puller fit perfectly in the reliefs that are cast into the carrier under the bearings.

Took my time with a hammer and an old bearing and tapped the new ones on.

Got the detroit seated in it's new home, but now I'm thinking I need to order new ring gear bolts... Do you guys replace them every time or what?:confused:
 
Thanks for the pics, I'm doing this right now. It's nice to see your progress.

Bruiser
 
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