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Deaver Springs

sreidmx said:
View attachment 154918Here is what they recommend. Scott has been really good about answering my questions.
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I'd go with the ORD custom springs.

Instead of moving the shackle end back 4 1/2" (see attachment above), I wonder if one could use something like DIY4x4 B52 bracket to move the front fixed eye further forward? This way you could still get a longer front spring, but it would be more 'bolt in'. Any thoughts?
 
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Or when you call ord you tell them what you have and what you want the springs to do, and they make it for correctly the first time. No need to change locations.

I can't say anything about dealers customer service as I bought my set used/ refurbished from a member ere,
But I will say I will never again buy a set of springs off the self.
Custom springs are THE way to go if you want to stay leaf.

Sure you can do lift springs or swap to a 52 or 56 and they will work. And a lot of times they will work and be just fine. But after having a truck with them I'll say again they are worth it!

Being able to hold 60 around a corner on 40" bias plys without so much body roll that I'm afraid of death, and still be soft enough for bumps and flex amazing, yeah custom springs are worth it.
 
Ned Kelly said:
I'd go with the ORD custom springs.

Instead of moving the shackle end back 4 1/2" (see attachment above), I wonder if one could use something like DIY4x4 B52 bracket to move the front fixed eye further forward? This way you could still get a longer front spring, but it would be more 'bolt in'. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

You sure can, and we've done it many times. It doesn't affect ride quality though, we set the spring rate the same regardless of spring length.

So the only thing you get with the longer springs is more available travel. But, for most people, our bolt in springs (usually 48.5") are all they can use. If you use all of the ~11" of vertical travel, it's a handful with mechanical steering (at least, with no panhard bar) and they'll use all of a 14" travel shock in articulation.

Most of our customers that have our custom 52" springs already had a spring setup for 52's. Really, if you need more than 11" of vertical travel, it's pretty much time for round springs.
 
Thanks for the input regarding the longer springs. Based on the info above, looks like I would be fine with using ORD springs in regular 48" length, and don't need to change fixed or shackle end.
 
Not sure I believe the it doesn't change the ride when you add 3 inches more travel.. If your only going to use 11 inches of travel don't buy custom springs, bds has a lifetime warranty and will ride plenty decent.
This is the reason I'm going to use deaver. Clearance you yokes and get your steering straight so you can use the extra travel. There is no reason to believe that 11 inches is the same as 14 when it comes to performance. And as far as round vs leaf, you just added x2 cost for diminishing returns. I would agree if you didn't want the hassle of moving mounts and the added droop causing driveshaft bind etc. then it would make more sense to keep the length shorter but please quit saying adding more length does nothing for the ride. That's incorrect and will mislead people. Even more so because your load rate might be the same but the rate increases slower with a longer spring thus making is more linear thus giving you a better ride. Pretty simple.
 
sreidmx said:
Not sure I believe the it doesn't change the ride when you add 3 inches more travel.. If your only going to use 11 inches of travel don't buy custom springs, bds has a lifetime warranty and will ride plenty decent.
This is the reason I'm going to use deaver. Clearance you yokes and get your steering straight so you can use the extra travel. There is no reason to believe that 11 inches is the same as 14 when it comes to performance. And as far as round vs leaf, you just added x2 cost for diminishing returns. I would agree if you didn't want the hassle of moving mounts and the added droop causing driveshaft bind etc. then it would make more sense to keep the length shorter but please quit saying adding more length does nothing for the ride. That's incorrect and will mislead people. Even more so because your load rate might be the same but the rate increases slower with a longer spring thus making is more linear thus giving you a better ride. Pretty simple.
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By no means did I mean that the extra 3" of travel is worthless, that's far from the case. My point was that bump steer is extreme enough at that much travel that 14" of leaf sprung travel is very hard to drive. Honestly we raced a leaf sprung Blazer at ~10" of travel and it was a handful when you drove it really hard.

It's the axle control from a link system that makes 14" of travel WAY easier to drive, and that was the point of that comment.

And for comparison sake, an off-the-shelf lift kit type spring is probably good for more like 7" of vertical travel (though they obviously vary).
 
Ok sorry wasn't trying to start any arguments and I agree wholly completely true about it being vary hard to drive.. Like driving a seesaw.
Like you said before pan hard is a good addition but the bushings get beat up.

Guys think of a leaf spring setup similar to a triangulated 4 link, they both cycle vertically with no horizontal movement hence the crazy bump steer, pan hard forces the axle to travel the same path as the drag link.
 
IMO panhards ruin leaf packs with lots of travel. Would take care of bump steer.


Mr.clean here left his on his ford after lifting it, and after some hard dune running the pass front leaf pack was definitely lower.



Can't say %100 I am right, but I'm not chancing it with my ord springs. Too spensive.
 
64s aren't much better than 56s for the rear.. Plus it kills your departure angle..
 
FOR MUD said:
Worth the money? Do they live up to the hype?

Been kicking around the idea of linking the rear on my rig. But since it already has leaf springs back there, why not see if it's worth just replacing them.
Up to this point I've been using stock height 1/2 ton springs with a few of the leafs removed. The problem is, they don't last to long....a year or so before they start to de-arch.
The back end of the rig is very light.....No bed, a tool box and two propane tanks. So I do run into some wheel hop nothing to bad, but something I would like to get rid of.

If not Deavers, any other springs out there I should look at?
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So, what did you decide? It's been a year since your post and wondering what direction you went and your experience. Thanks!
 
cesandvik said:
So, what did you decide? It's been a year since your post and wondering what direction you went and your experience. Thanks!
Click to expand...

To be honest....No direction yet. I will be needing to do something every soon. I'm leaning toward trying some stock but longer springs, seeing how they act for now.
The biggest hold back I see with the custom spring route is price...For about twice the money, I should be able to buy everything needed for links ( Less if I went with coils )
I know it's alot more work than bolting a set of springs in place...But that's half the fun of it.
 
I have gotten Deavers for a customer. Great springs but it took a bit to get em ordered had to call twice cause they lost the paper they wrote all my stuff down on. I have put on alcan and have talked to them before

Both good companies. I have also seen the ORD custom springs in action. If not going links eventually custom springs are by far the best choice
 
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