I think he ended up going a different direction.
CK5
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detailed SYE tech writeup on the 208
- Thread starter twoslo4five0
- Start date
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
I see it, but I just want to "hear you say it"
SO, by the method you chose to use for this mod, a person chosing to do the same would only need a dodge output shaft and rear cone - Not the back half.
This isnt a inventory question as to parts needed, but more of a clarification issue.
Thanks for posting the write up - It will come in very handy.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Kenny78
1/2 ton status
That is correct. I wanted to do what JT512 did and add bungs to the chevy case to line up the oil passages. However, my FIL didnt want to put the effort out. My machinist friend was sick and stock driveshaft was about to crater.
http://www.wheelindixie.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4692
page 4 where they plug the oil passage.
Mine is working flawlessly. The rear output does not seem to get any hotter than anything else after 3 weeks. Again, this is not how I wanted to do it. I am searching for another case for my other truck to modify like I want.
The best part of this mod is my CV driveshaft was made out of 77 parts truck drivelines with only a new 2&3/4 3r weld yoke and labor to put it together. I didnt realize how much my truck was vibrating!!
did the dodge output shaft swap not work out?
Dunno the specifics, but I think he is working on a 205/205 doubler now. 
Kenny78
1/2 ton status
I seem to remember that he said his driveshaft might have been to long, stuffing the case. That in turn probly fragged all the thrust washers/bearings(?).
yeah, this seemed like a good thread, but i never saw anything about the performance of the modification. i did the same mod, so i guess i'll find out first hand if it works or not. the only thing i'm concerned about is the amount of thread engagement. i drilled and tapped the holes to mount the dodge tailhousing the the chevy 208 case, but it seems failure prone due to lack of thread count. i think i'll thru bolt the tailhousing just to be safe.
Kenny78
1/2 ton status
I would do something to reinforce it. I felt it better to risk under oiling rather than case seperation, probly destroying everything used in the swap.
im still running the 208.actually had to pull it out the other day to replace a throw out bering in my trans.its working fine.imma swap in a 205 eventually for piece of mind.i did break it due to my rear driveshaft being to long.it works well i just wheel a little to hard for a 208.
Kenny78
1/2 ton status
what broke in it?
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
^ What he said ^
It may be nothing of concern, or maybe nothing youre thinking on because you intend to move on - But the mod is on the 208 - And feedback can make or break the mod for the rest of us.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
the rear driveshaft was to long and shoved the rear out put into the the flat bearing which broke and got into the planatery
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Thx for that, twoslo.
The failure resulted entirely on the driveshaft length then. Im sure it will be asked, so here it is - What was the length you had, and what is your expected replacement length going to be ?
Thx again for posting this also - Its basically the how to manual for the mod, no further instruction required.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
The failure resulted entirely on the driveshaft length then. Im sure it will be asked, so here it is - What was the length you had, and what is your expected replacement length going to be ?
Thx again for posting this also - Its basically the how to manual for the mod, no further instruction required.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
my wheelbase is streched so that info wont really help you to much.my shaft has about 2 inches of up treavel now
JohnyWard
Registered Member
Do you know the diameter on the bolt circle? I am doing the same conversion and would like to make a template before I drill out the holes. Plus there are some difference in the internals between the Dodge and the Chevy. I'm trying to write a thread about it but I dont have the required posts yet so I'll get some pics up soon.
i have no idea.we just swapped it all over like in the first post.
JohnyWard
Registered Member
Thanks anyway. I think the Chevy internals are stronger anyway, it looks like there are more teeth that engage for 4wd. Unfortunately its hard to explain without pics (yet) and its another set of those snap rings which really do SUCK.
The six bolts on the front aren't actually in a circle pattern, the spacing between them varies so you can't bolt the t-case up wrong. So you'll need to trace a pattern from a t-case or adapter.
JohnyWard
Registered Member
I was actually talking about the the set of 4 that holds the tailhousing to the back half of the case. The 4 have to be re-drilled rotated about 10 degrees. Is there any word on the stronger of the 2 internals?
JohnyWard
Registered Member
Here are the main differences between the internals:
The dodge is on the left. These are the shift collars. The dodge has a brass floating piece.
Again the Dodge is on the left. It looks like there are half the teeth that engage on the dodge. However the Dodge carrier that this rides on is larger (both in diameter and width) as seen below, and it also has some spring loaded parts to it (not shonw)
Again the Dodge is on the left.
The dodge is on the left. These are the shift collars. The dodge has a brass floating piece.
Again the Dodge is on the left. It looks like there are half the teeth that engage on the dodge. However the Dodge carrier that this rides on is larger (both in diameter and width) as seen below, and it also has some spring loaded parts to it (not shonw)
Again the Dodge is on the left.
