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Deulings 1985 K5 Blazer, --aka Borderline Obnoxious; Silver Lake pics and Vids
- Thread starter Deuling
- Start date
Oh I was just joking about that
Cooling setup
Ok guys is this an ok cooling setup?
I dont want to spend a rediculous amount of money on an electric and alluminum rad combo. I have a brand new small block water pump that I hope is the same, just an OEM one from autozone, and all new cooling lines.
You guys think this will be ok?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EMP-300/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-1319/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PLI-438730/
Just looking to see what i need to spend. Little as possible lol. And how can I tell what type of rad I have in my truck already? Like how can you tell a 4 core from something else?
Ok guys is this an ok cooling setup?
I dont want to spend a rediculous amount of money on an electric and alluminum rad combo. I have a brand new small block water pump that I hope is the same, just an OEM one from autozone, and all new cooling lines.
You guys think this will be ok?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EMP-300/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-1319/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PLI-438730/
Just looking to see what i need to spend. Little as possible lol. And how can I tell what type of rad I have in my truck already? Like how can you tell a 4 core from something else?
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That thermostat is excellent quality, I run the same kind, but unless you don't plan on any winter driving I would go with the 180 degree thermostat, and one without the 3 bypass holes (so it warms up quicker). The heater will work better with the 180. The bypass holes are for electric pumps, or very high RPM. You don't need them. This one will work...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EMP-308/
That fan will probably work, but would just stick with the stock fan most likely. If you spend any money on a fan, I would go windstar fans or something.
That radiator I know nothing about. But to see what your stock one is, measure the "core" thickness (not the tanks). 4 core would be about 2" or more. A 2 core about half that, and a 3 core, 1.5" about. Or just pop the cap and look inside. If you can see the rows of fins, the brass cores will be in rows, count the number of cores in each row. There will be about 30 - 40 rows, and each row will have 2 - 4 "cores".
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EMP-308/
That fan will probably work, but would just stick with the stock fan most likely. If you spend any money on a fan, I would go windstar fans or something.
That radiator I know nothing about. But to see what your stock one is, measure the "core" thickness (not the tanks). 4 core would be about 2" or more. A 2 core about half that, and a 3 core, 1.5" about. Or just pop the cap and look inside. If you can see the rows of fins, the brass cores will be in rows, count the number of cores in each row. There will be about 30 - 40 rows, and each row will have 2 - 4 "cores".
Ok only thing im scared about is this thing running hot and cracking a wall, I can change the thermostat before winter to a 180* one. I just thought someone said those thermostats with the bypass holes allow all the air bubbles to get out of the system after initial installation of the new radiator.
The dimensions of the core are 29" Long, 19.5" High, and 1.5" Thick. Roughly. So by what you said its a 3 core, and its all oxidized on the tanks so I will just get a new one anyways. This Rad I put up has the same dimensions, except the core is 2.6" thick instead of only 1.5". I think I will get this one unless someone objects.
Just been having nightmares now about overheating this new engine lol, so I dont want them to come true.
That is true, however, if you fill the block through the thermostat hole all the way up to just below the surface(radiator cap off), right before you bolt the thermostat in, that doesn't happen anyway. And most of the time it won't happen either, because most small blocks have a bypass in the block for everything to circulate even when the thermostat is closed. Either your cooling system is good enough or it isn't, changing the thermostat isn't going to change it much. Just put a good quality one in and be done with it.
Ok I will get one without the bypass holes, but wouldnt a 160 help out a little more than the 180 in the summer? Or no? I just figured as low as I can keep the temp the better, I can always go up with a thermostat if it doesnt warm up enough, just harder to keep it down.
Or this one for a little more looks a bit beefier, just a little shorter, idk if i like that its shorter than mine cuz idk if the shroud will fit then
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PLI-433165/?rtype=10
On my 400 I have the following.
cast iron 350 water pump (jegs brand IIRC)
195 basic T-stat from Pepboys (might go to 180 now that it's warming up)
LMC radiator 32-2946
I prolly over paid for the radiator, but it's a good looking aluminum core 2.25" 2 row. Unfortunately it has plastic tanks, so who knows when that's going to crack. My truck warms up quick and stays right at 195 all day long. Since it's warming up, (90*+) I'd be interested if the temp stays in check.
You will need to modify your radiator mounts because of the bigger radiator. The top ones can be cut easily. The rubber feet for top and bottom need to be changed to a big block style radiator (larger care). The radiator shroud will also need to be modified. I cut some of the side and bottom off to get it mounted in the stock location, the top however is mickey-moused ATM with zipties. You are moving the shroud away from the mounts when you go with a bigger core radiator. None of this is difficult btw, just think it through and make it work. You don't have to cut the shroud, you could always make up some brackets or even spacers and reuse the stock mounting locations.
PS> I wouldn't go with a 160. Don't really have proof as to why, I just don't like running a low stat like that.
cast iron 350 water pump (jegs brand IIRC)
195 basic T-stat from Pepboys (might go to 180 now that it's warming up)
LMC radiator 32-2946
I prolly over paid for the radiator, but it's a good looking aluminum core 2.25" 2 row. Unfortunately it has plastic tanks, so who knows when that's going to crack. My truck warms up quick and stays right at 195 all day long. Since it's warming up, (90*+) I'd be interested if the temp stays in check.
You will need to modify your radiator mounts because of the bigger radiator. The top ones can be cut easily. The rubber feet for top and bottom need to be changed to a big block style radiator (larger care). The radiator shroud will also need to be modified. I cut some of the side and bottom off to get it mounted in the stock location, the top however is mickey-moused ATM with zipties. You are moving the shroud away from the mounts when you go with a bigger core radiator. None of this is difficult btw, just think it through and make it work. You don't have to cut the shroud, you could always make up some brackets or even spacers and reuse the stock mounting locations.
PS> I wouldn't go with a 160. Don't really have proof as to why, I just don't like running a low stat like that.
Well that sounds good man. You like that radiator I put up? Ive got a standard 350 water pump as well, brand new.
Nice to see someone not freeking out about me getting a 400 lol.
Nice to see someone not freeking out about me getting a 400 lol.
I sold a Vista radiator a couple years ago. It was brand new, but too wide for my truck. It was for a 1990 BBC suburban IIRC. It was a nice radiator and the tanks were steel. Not sure how good copper/brass cools, not as good as aluminum I'm sure, but the strength was there. Wish I could have used it, big ass 4core, got it for free too 
I sold a Vista radiator a couple years ago. It was brand new, but too wide for my truck. It was for a 1990 BBC suburban IIRC. It was a nice radiator and the tanks were steel. Not sure how good copper/brass cools, not as good as aluminum I'm sure, but the strength was there. Wish I could have used it, big ass 4core, got it for free too
Well when it says copper steel is that reffering to the core itself as well as the tanks? I know these 2 will fit because the core measures exactly to the first one I put up. The 2nd one I put up is like 2 inches shorter. IDK which one to get the 2nd one looks a lot beefier for the extra $20.
shovelbill80
1/2 ton status
stop worrying....it's only going to run a few degrees hotter at most. i'm most woried about the loose nut behind the wheel 
stop worrying....it's only going to run a few degrees hotter at most. i'm most woried about the loose nut behind the wheel
Haha well you cant mean me...
I guess you must mean i gotta tighten my steering wheel on real good... Ill get right on that 
haha.
I could be wrong but I believe stock thermostat temp is 195. Where I live it gets over 100 degrees often in summer and I run a 195 now with no problems. I had a 160 or maybe a 180 and it kills your gas mileage. I thought the same thing, lower temp thermostat, lower engine temp but it will get to the same temp pushed hard up hills in hot weather either way.
Run a Summit brand radiator....all aluminum, made in USA, and the one I got keeps my BBC cool just fine. During the breakin it never got above 190, and I didn't have a shroud hooked up to it, just a fan. Check it out when you come down for the build.
Ok, I was just hoping to not spend a ton of money on a radiator for it. Still have to put aside money to rebuild my tranny (when the 408 breaks it) and most likely my rear end at some point. So im already gonna be around $1500 with the engine, a $250 rad, and the exhaust. Thats half my savings at the moment, and im still in school for another month till I can start working full time again....
get the summit radiator, run the water pump you have, throw a 180 in it, and commence being happy. You wont break the 700 or rear end, unless you want to. The motor isn't going to just start snapping parts.
Do you know how to break it in? Make sure you go over this and make sure the tranny TV cable is adjusted right. I say adjusted but most will say "setting". You can read up on how to set it properly, then go from there to make small "adjustments" to dial it in.
You want to run a high zinc oil and work on getting the carb dialed in. Every day you drive it, you will notice a difference in running and strength. You want to tighten up bolts on various things (carb, exhaust, intake) because these things flex and settle during the break in process. The jetting in the carb will change as the motor breaks in too, mine has been asking for more and more fuel, as the motor gains vacuum and wants more fuel. I only have about 160 miles on the engine now.
Do you know how to break it in? Make sure you go over this and make sure the tranny TV cable is adjusted right. I say adjusted but most will say "setting". You can read up on how to set it properly, then go from there to make small "adjustments" to dial it in.
You want to run a high zinc oil and work on getting the carb dialed in. Every day you drive it, you will notice a difference in running and strength. You want to tighten up bolts on various things (carb, exhaust, intake) because these things flex and settle during the break in process. The jetting in the carb will change as the motor breaks in too, mine has been asking for more and more fuel, as the motor gains vacuum and wants more fuel. I only have about 160 miles on the engine now.
Lol no this truck is ten times better than my bronco. Ive litterally hardly put any money into this truck, I could still drive it till the motor goes out, I just "want" to get a better one. I would say its a perfect time to be honest. Im going to MCC, still got at least another year their and who knows what after, I only pay for insurance and phone, still live at home, but im at work and school from 6am to 7 or 8pm every day of the week and gone working or at friends all the rest of the time. So I figure I should get my truck the way I feel really comfortable with it now, so when it is time to move out I dont have to worry about it till ive got a good job and money to do that. I get at least 40 a week during the summer so thats when I bank up my savings, im still doing around 20 a week now, but thats why my savings havnt gone down, I spend every weeks check between gas, bills, and food and some fun. So with double that during the summer I will be able to save 200 or so a week, hopefully lol.
get the summit radiator, run the water pump you have, throw a 180 in it, and commence being happy. You wont break the 700 or rear end, unless you want to. The motor isn't going to just start snapping parts.
Do you know how to break it in? Make sure you go over this and make sure the tranny TV cable is adjusted right. I say adjusted but most will say "setting". You can read up on how to set it properly, then go from there to make small "adjustments" to dial it in.
You want to run a high zinc oil and work on getting the carb dialed in. Every day you drive it, you will notice a difference in running and strength. You want to tighten up bolts on various things (carb, exhaust, intake) because these things flex and settle during the break in process. The jetting in the carb will change as the motor breaks in too, mine has been asking for more and more fuel, as the motor gains vacuum and wants more fuel. I only have about 160 miles on the engine now.
Ugh I dont wanna even think about the carb lol. Im so sick of that thing lol. I bought a rebuild kit and new floats for it, just havnt redone it yet. I also bought a really nice book on it with lots of pictures, but its still confusing as h3ll to me.
