Hmmmmmm this reminds me, my pops has a sandblaster that he used to redo the bed on his 76 F-250....
Looks like I've got some work to do lol.
Looks like I've got some work to do lol.
CK5
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Deuling's 1985 K5. "Restart thread on post #8415"
- Thread starter Deuling
- Start date
Well ive got access to one, but i have no way to transport the blazer now... Didnt think this through lol. I guess i could just use my compressor and do short bursts of blasting in the bad spots.... It would be sick though to have it all blasted spotless!
ChevyToy04
1/2 ton status
Bolt the drivers seat and seatbelt back in,leave everything else out,and drive it to where you need to go. Remove it again when you get there. Go to town on it with the sand blaster!
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True i could i guess, just dont have any insurance or plate on it, i think if i plum my buddies 25 gal compressor into my 30 gal(which needs a new electric motor) that may work alright and gimme more volume of air... I bet it would work alright and i can get all the parts at work fo free
ChevyToy04
1/2 ton status
That'd probably be your best bet. If you could sandblast it, that'd be alot easier than trying to wire wheel it all away
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How fars the sandblaster from you??
Well its at my bosses house where i did my motor swap, not tht far, but im kinda sick of askin him for favors lol, ive worked on so much stuff in there abd i hate feelin like a mooch. I think ill try my stuff out and see how that works. Got a shop vac today at work from the guys that said it was broke and tossed it by the dumpater, i quick looked at it, loose wires, fixed it up, rigged a filter out of a rag and tossed it in ma car lol. So now i can blast and wire wheel then clean the mess up
i like free lol
When you do sheet metal work make sure you switch to a .024 wire. Otherwise you will be blowing through it a lot. That hobart only has 4 settings, so your adjustably is low. Running .024 wire with good gas, and you should be fine.
And I have said this before adam. I have a bender, and so does dave. You just need to supply the tube 
Will do man! I was gonna use .030 but ill give that a try. You have the same one dont you? I didnt realize the roller wheel took 024 wire, but i guess i never flipped it around to look
And I have said this before adam. I have a bender, and so does dave. You just need to supply the tube
Oh man now im thinkin more. Damm these coils are just gonna keep gettin moved farther and farther away lol. Guess i should have safety precautions in it before buildin a suspension like that....
Yes just flip it around, change the tip out for a .024. You will hate life with .030 and sheet metal.
For sure get with Jess or Dave and get a cage in there Adam.
Might I suggest saving up and getting some PRPs or Beards and harness before the crazy suspension also?
I would also seriously thing about swapping the rear axle to something. 9" Chrysler 9.25 are 2 that come to mind. Bigger brakes and way stronger.
9" wins on almost every front except for I have been given a couple 9.25s
All the 9" I have been given needed much work.
Anyway your right safety first
Might I suggest saving up and getting some PRPs or Beards and harness before the crazy suspension also?
I would also seriously thing about swapping the rear axle to something. 9" Chrysler 9.25 are 2 that come to mind. Bigger brakes and way stronger.
9" wins on almost every front except for I have been given a couple 9.25s
All the 9" I have been given needed much work.
Anyway your right safety first
Unless tube has gone up 200 bucks will get you 4 sticks, and that should be a good start to get the major bends out of the way, and then you can add gussets and stabilization later.
Wow lol, my boss told me 1-1/2 pipe is $2 a foot... Why on earth is tube so much more?
How its made is what makes it soo expensive. Pipe you do not want to use. 1.75 HREW(hot rolled electric welded) should be 2-3 a foot. DOM(Drawn over Mandrel) is about 4-5 a foot.
Wow thats nuts
Id like to tie it to the frame in prolly 4 spots at least, in the back and by the B? Pillar... (where the top meets the steel) and prolly one more somewhere in the middle, I dont want one through the dash or up front, wanna keep it somewhat stock looking. Then i should be able to hit her pretty hard with that suspension (heaven forbid I every get to start saving for that before all these other things ) Oh well im patient, I can wait.
Id like to tie it to the frame in prolly 4 spots at least, in the back and by the B? Pillar... (where the top meets the steel) and prolly one more somewhere in the middle, I dont want one through the dash or up front, wanna keep it somewhat stock looking. Then i should be able to hit her pretty hard with that suspension (heaven forbid I every get to start saving for that before all these other things ) Oh well im patient, I can wait.
DIY4X fender stickers add 25hp, but if subtlely placed and noticed their worth 40-50 depending on location...
Fast costs $$$$, how fast do you want to go?
I call that the snowball effect... you start with a snowball to throw at it ($$$), the more you get into it, the farther you want to go with it, and next thing you know your pushing the foundation for a snowman ($$$$$).Can you feel the spirals getting tighter, you are fully on the downward spiral.
Doesn't matter if its sand you wanna do or rocks. We are all on the same downward spiral.
Wow thats nuts
Adam, what did you use for a bender on your BBII?
I got that speedway bender which works good, nothing like a JB2 but it'll get the job done. I have a little bending to do over the winter, but if you want to use it you can. I would start with a cage for the front seats, then if your serious about going fast, I think you need to go front to rear with it to tie the frame all together.
