Huh, so does that basically turn it into a manual?? 
Fooled me, I always thought you had an sm465 lol
Fooled me, I always thought you had an sm465 lol
CK5
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Deuling's 1985 K5. "Restart thread on post #8415"
- Thread starter Deuling
- Start date
truck use to be sm465 . its now th400/205 . i didnt wana fix hole in floor and wap in auto shifter colum so i just got this unit that clamps to tranny case and up threw stock 4 speed hole.
make auto shift as it did before . just on floor and cool lookin
make auto shift as it did before . just on floor and cool lookin
Ahh I see.
I know there are ways to actually make a 700 into a manual, I didnt know if you did something similar. It is sweet looking, I just cant justify spending the coin for something thats not going to do alot more for performance (at this time at least)
I know there are ways to actually make a 700 into a manual, I didnt know if you did something similar. It is sweet looking, I just cant justify spending the coin for something thats not going to do alot more for performance (at this time at least)
Good point good point sir. I just dont have the funds for more stuff at the moment. Maybe if it becomes strictly a dune rig, but I plan on DDing this thing most of summer so column shifter is easier.
Gotta save up for (hopefully I can get between 1000-1500 outa my van)
4" ORD Alcan lift, shady did it all for $1500
$400 for my buddies 33x12.5 Trxus MTs
$700 for the tranny build
Timbrens- $200???
Then I want 2 Bilstein 7100s up front with 2 5150s out back... $550
And mess with swapping my 14sf to 6 lug and swapping 4.10s into the front 10 bolt
The shocks will be put off till next year unless I find a bunch of cash, and most likely the axle stuff.
So I need a good $3000 into it this summer lol, and it sucks being a full time student
That $1500 included the shocks. But I wouldnt use the same ones again. I'm already looking for different ones. I think they were $155 or so. I wish I woulda spent the other $200 and upgraded to the bilsteins
Cool!! Thats less money to spend right now lol. Those nitro9000s i have will work perfect i think because they have a ton of up travel left on them, so i should be able to run them for a bit untill i can save up for the 7100s and 5150s 
I hear what you are saying. Now while I have never been to the dunes I do wheel in a lot of sand with steep hill climbs. From my experience my stick always makes it further up the hill than the autos. The autos like to shift up to the wrong gear dropping the rpm and bogging the engine which loses wheel speed and momentum. Meanwhile I pick the right gear and keep the rpm up and I just rocket up the hill. Here's an example of what I'm talking about:
This is when I still had my 305, I was in 3rd gear, 4lo, 5000rpm. The blue truck 1/2way up the hill is a 350, th400, 205 and thats as far as he could make it before the trans bogged him down meanwhile I blew his doors off
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U guys just have too much air in you tars
And i dont rely on the tranny kicking down on its own, i pull it down on the column
And i dont rely on the tranny kicking down on its own, i pull it down on the column
than pray you don't put it up into neutral or reverse when going up thru the gears......
just sayin....
just sayin....
Haha ya we don't air down because we come in off the street and go right back out into the street to get to these locations.
Ya it helps to kick the shifter down to a lower gear but only so much. Just thought I share my experiences with you.
Ya it helps to kick the shifter down to a lower gear but only so much. Just thought I share my experiences with you.
than pray you don't put it up into neutral or reverse when going up thru the gears......
just sayin....
I did that once in my regal when I was about 19. I ran it up through 2nd gear redline with my TH400 column shifter. I shifted into 3rd gear and let off but since I was going over 90 mph it was still revving very high so I immediately went to bump it into neatral to coast for a while, went one clunk too far into reverse! Shifting to reverse at 90 mph isn't a good idea. The car lurched me into the steering wheel while squealing the rear tires. As fast as I could while being pushed forward into the wheel I bumped it back into neutral. I look behind me and I see two black marks and two paths of tire smoke. I was worried for a bit as I coasted to my turn. I then checked reverse, checked forward gears, etc. Everything worked fine. The engine never even stalled. It was good I had swapped a 12 bolt in there(car 12 bolts are a lot stronger than car 7.5" 10 bolts) along with the TH400, I got away with that without any carnage.
Several years later I installed a ratchet shifter and I really like it, you can't shift too far with those, just bang the gears!
You can modifiy the valve body so it helps immensely. The factory many time has a fail safe so even if you select 1st gear it will shift into 2nd at a certain RPM. You can override this so you can hold it in 1st as long as you want.
At the sand drags I use low range, the course is only 300 ft or so, but with 4.10 gears I get twice the torque and still don't quite hit redline in high gear low range before 300 ft. Yeah I can only go 70 mph at redline in low range, but thats plenty fast for 300 ft, and with my TH400 and the modified governor and valvebody it bangs through those three gears and keeps me pulling hard 100% of the time in a very short time. There is no way I could do that with an SM465, you just cant shift them fast enough because they bind up.
I like my B&M Z gate, but if I do it again I'll get an art carr !!
than pray you don't put it up into neutral or reverse when going up thru the gears......
just sayin....
Why would you go up in gears?
DOWN DOWN DOWN, so you can go UP UP UP the hill!!
Vroom Vroom
Adam, keep watching the for sale section...I got my Superlift springs there for I think $100 plus shipping, then did the flip in the rear with 56's.
And running the auto, I agree with Heath, have them rework you 700 now for being able to hold low gear without the failsafe upshift the factory builds into it.
And just save your money for an Art Carr/Winters...you'll never turn back after that, it will spoil you that much!
And running the auto, I agree with Heath, have them rework you 700 now for being able to hold low gear without the failsafe upshift the factory builds into it.
And just save your money for an Art Carr/Winters...you'll never turn back after that, it will spoil you that much!
Why would you go up in gears?
DOWN DOWN DOWN, so you can go UP UP UP the hill!!
With a manual valve body you need to go up, it doesn't upshift for you. I usually hold 2nd on test till it starts to bog at 3g, then downshift to 1st and let my motor sing till the valves start floating
With a manual valve body you need to go up, it doesn't upshift for you. I usually hold 2nd on test till it starts to bog at 3g, then downshift to 1st and let my motor sing till the valves start floating
I used to downshift at the top too. But I found that with a mild big block you don't need to anymore, I just use much less throttle as I appoach the top now, then let off and coast over.
I used to downshift at the top too. But I found that with a mild big block you don't need to anymore, I just use much less throttle as I appoach the top now, then let off and coast over.
Rub it in a little more!!
But But But, I want Alcans DUDE!!! They sound like they ride so nice
With a manual valve body you need to go up, it doesn't upshift for you. I usually hold 2nd on test till it starts to bog at 3g, then downshift to 1st and let my motor sing till the valves start floating
Yah I did that in my dads 91 burb once, Caught some air over test hill. It was like
and then it was like 
Happy birthday.
Martin
Martin
You're welcome. I hope you took work off tomorrow.
Martin
Martin
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