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Deuling's 1985 K5. "Restart thread on post #8415"

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63chevyll said:
Sounds like a plan.

Then take your time with your next build....and dont forget, like you said before...get that debt paid off before you add more to it.

So, any mention of running MLS head gaskets? With the .040 bore on a big cylinder there isn't much room to seal between the walls.
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Aww man. I just ordered different head gaskets last night, as I got the wrong ones the first time lol.


I ordered FEL-1014
 
You don't need mls gaskets, if those 882s aren't cracked cut them and uses the felpros you have. I would have them cut some but it won't help much anyway. Next time maybe you should Facebook me when building this water heater, it must be all of 8 to one compression. Better heads, a little more compression and a nice can will actually get more reliable since it will do what you ask with less throttle. I like you kid but spending 8 million on a cage and suspension and detonating out the head gaskets because you haven't tuned the engine is like pissing in your own morning coffee. And turn down the radio, you should have heard this. Do you think all this bashing is fun for me? Man all the work you make me go through at 6 am. FYI I told you small blocks don't just blow gaskets.
 
Remove material from the mating surface to reduce the combustiin chamber to increase the horrible current compression.
 
Can you take enough off the 882s to really make a difference in compression?

What's your current CR in this engine?
 
Probably not but I would make them flat for sure. About 8.6 now. No quench lazy chamber.
 
You can get away with more static compression if your quench is .040-.045 and a can that bleeds a bit off down low if you milled 20-30 off those heads and the intake to match you prob be in the 9:1 ish range and that motor wouldn't detonate itself to death and be very very torqey to match. 427 is right they don't just pop gaskets unless there is a reason. And you'll have a much easier time tuning once these things are ironed out. If your worried about it start with baseline jetting(holley right) and if your plugs read lean go up 5-10 jet sizes and check again.. You just need to get it close because covering up lean spots is harder than dealing with rich ones.. And in the sand your generating a lot of heat in the chamber.
 
Yea good luck. Depending on which one you might be chasing your tail.. Those are terrible offroad carbs.. Ask me how I know:
 
I would spend the money to chassis dyno tune it, cheapest horsepower ever.
 
It's cheaper to go to the racetrack T&T for $25 and tune it than to pay a dyno.

But a timing light is also cheaper than new head gaskets. :doah:
 
True but for 200 you could tune much more than wot. Like part throttle tip in and cruising. Hell I would have timed it at 40 and read the plugs. I bet it has more pepper than color.
 
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Pointless to spend time/money tuning when your nice aluminum heads are sitting on the shelf:D
Jk, I vote dnyo tune.
 
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