CK5
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Deuling's 1985 K5. "Restart thread on post #8415"

The stock springs are softer than the medium springs in the kit. So maybe one light and one of the stock?

I would still go two light, you have a stall converter anyway, it's not likely to ping at 2K rpm.

I now hate motor work more than I did when it blew.

Fixing broken stuff is no fun, if you would of swapped the cam and heads and woke that puppy up you would of been smiling on your first trip out and thought, motor work is awesome.

Also, ditch those supertrapps, those kill the flow and your power. Hooker Aerochambers or Flowmaster 70 series will pass the sound check and not kill the flow.

Nice job getting it running by the way, now you get to enjoy it.
 
I have 2 light springs in it now.


I was just confused as when I checked timing at idle it was at like 20 btdc. Which seemed odd to me :dunno:. But maybe im overthinking it.




And Heath, how do the Supertrapps kill flow? I don't even have any plates on them, you can see right through them.... I do plan to redo the exhaust at some point, but before I needed the Supertrapps because with those shocks inside the frame and my anti wrap bar, I literally had no room to run exhaust back there. Now with outboarded shocks, I can do a proper exhaust.


Maybe ill use some thread rod and hang it real low for old times sake.... :whistle:
 
Are you saying you don't have the end cap on them, just wide open? If so then you are fine, I didn't see that part.

20 deg advance at idle is fine without the vacuum advance plugged in, it actually should be around mid 30s with the vacuum advance plugged in to full manifold vacuum. What did you set it it and at what RPM? and w/ or w/out the vacuum advance plugged in?
 
Yah most of the captured nuts were busted inside when I got them. So I just removed all the plates.


And yah it's at 20 with vac plugged at idle. Around 30 iirc when I plugged it back in. I set it at 38 like that once the mechanical was done advancing.


The idle just confused me because the stock sticker on the core support calls for like 4 degrees at 550 rpm lol. But I know that was for a 305.
 
Lol yea the idle timing honestly it can get away with a lot and really as long as you get the idle speed your fine, the main thing is to get it so it is still advancing when your vacuum is going down, when you stomp it the vacuum drops to zero. This is where the mechanical advance comes into play. Health mentioned stall and basically that's when the load is going to really be imposed on the engine at wot from a stop.. Kind of hard to explain but basically it's all just tuning the fuel and spark at the proper intervals so you don't have a lean spot or a sag in apart timing. Makes for a very very responsive package.
 
Cool. I think im pretty good then. That AF gauge seems to work halfway decent. Just turning the idle mixture screws an 1/8 turn, it was changing on the gauge. So I think that will help dial it in. Also ill start checking spark plugs more often lol.
 
And yah it's at 20 with vac plugged at idle. Around 30 iirc when I plugged it back in. I set it at 38 like that once the mechanical was done advancing.

You set it like what? With the advance connected or not connected?

You should set it at 36 - 38 with the vacuum advance disconnected and at an RPM where it climbs no more. If you hear any pinging, back it off to 34, or 2 degrees lower at a time until it stops.

The idle just confused me because the stock sticker on the core support calls for like 4 degrees at 550 rpm lol. But I know that was for a 305.

Stock timing is for stock engines making stock power, if you want more power, ignore that.
 
You set it like what? With the advance connected or not connected?

You should set it at 36 - 38 with the vacuum advance disconnected and at an RPM where it climbs no more. If you hear any pinging, back it off to 34, or 2 degrees lower at a time until it stops.

.

I thought that's what I said I did :dunno:


Either way yes that's what I did.
 
Around 30 iirc when I plugged it back in. I set it at 38 like that once the mechanical was done advancing.

You set it like what? With the advance connected or not connected?

I thought that's what I said I did :dunno:


Either way yes that's what I did.

What you said was confusing, because you said it was 30 plugged back in, and you set it at 38 like that. Made it sound like you set it at 38 plugged back in.

That is why I clarified. Because if you set it at 38 with the vacuum plugged in and then drilled the throttle and it dropped down to 20 or something at WOT you would be wondering why it is so sluggish. Or maybe it would of ran like it always has, who knows. :D

It sounds to me like you set it right then, I just wanted to make sure. Now go get us some more dune media. :waytogo:
 
So....pictures? :popcorn:

I need a new steering pump to work with the bracket i have. Need to figure out which one to get.....

From another thread:

Well craig brought me down the right bracket. I just guess I no longer have the right pump.... :dunno:

Where the top flange is on his, is where the cap of my pump goes. So must be different pumps out there? Mine is on right, one craig brought is on left, with the adjustment and second tab.









And if you look at this. The bolt holes in relation to where the cap would be (big circle)

ps brackets.jpg
 
The pump sits more straight up and down, because you don't have an AC compressor above it.

Martin
 
The pump sits more straight up and down, because you don't have an AC compressor above it.

Martin

It wont bolt into the new bracket is what im saying. Look at the last picture.
It physically doesn't fit.
 
I'm missing something. Why are you looking to replace/modify the P/S setup? Did something break? :dunno:

No i want to get rid of the 4 brackets it takes to mount the ac pump just to use it as my ps tensioner. Such a wast of space and weight and time. As you can see my old ps mount has no adjustment. The new one on the left does.
 
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