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Deuling's 1985 K5. "Restart thread on post #8415"

If i gotta take the pump apart, ill just buy one that bolts on and weld something there.
 
I thought The standard was always just a press fit. The "fix" when you're inside or rebuilding was to add a couple of tacks to make sure it doesn't come off.
 
I've been debating about it on mine. I read if you do weld it on you have to take the pump apart so some of the parts don't get heat warped. I've also read about some people putting red loctite on the tube. I bought a pickup with a bracket/tab that goes under the mounting bolt.

If you want it to never come apart use green loctite, I've made Allen drivers in a pinch before by sticking an Allen bit in a socket with green loctite. Still in one piece and I made it 4 years ago. And that wasn't even a press fit like the pickup tube is
 
If you want it to never come apart use green loctite, I've made Allen drivers in a pinch before by sticking an Allen bit in a socket with green loctite. Still in one piece and I made it 4 years ago. And that wasn't even a press fit like the pickup tube is

I definitely want it to stay in this time!
 
Somebody just mentioned this to me actually. Had had thought that on the hard hits, the rebound would help hold it down for a second, instead of the pogo. But maybe I just need the compression to slow the hit more?

I may try just adding compression first and see how it goes.


It's kind of a big tossup as to what you want to do, I take what you are trying for is more along the lines of whoops and bumps that are somewhat continuous (desert terrain). In general you want very little rebound, a slightly stiffer front than rear so the nose sits up a tad and then tune for the speed you want to drive. Keep in mind that as you tune in one ride aspect another might? take a bit of a hit and you'll loose some ride quality or handling.

If you want to do more short course type stuff where it's one big jump and no real whoops or repetitive bumps then lots of rebound holds the vehicle down on landing and lets it rise up to ride height in a controlled manner. Again those trucks don't see much in the way of whoops and bigger hits one after the other.

Spend some time watching Trophy trucks and short course trucks and you will see what I'm talking about. You'r going to be into your shocks multiple times but I suggest a BIG change the first time to see what the other side of wrong is like then back off as you see fit.
 
It's kind of a big tossup as to what you want to do, I take what you are trying for is more along the lines of whoops and bumps that are somewhat continuous (desert terrain). In general you want very little rebound, a slightly stiffer front than rear so the nose sits up a tad and then tune for the speed you want to drive. Keep in mind that as you tune in one ride aspect another might? take a bit of a hit and you'll loose some ride quality or handling.

If you want to do more short course type stuff where it's one big jump and no real whoops or repetitive bumps then lots of rebound holds the vehicle down on landing and lets it rise up to ride height in a controlled manner. Again those trucks don't see much in the way of whoops and bigger hits one after the other.

Spend some time watching Trophy trucks and short course trucks and you will see what I'm talking about. You'r going to be into your shocks multiple times but I suggest a BIG change the first time to see what the other side of wrong is like then back off as you see fit.


The thing is literally like driving a boat on water.

I have to "pre turn" the wheels while the thing is weightless, so that when the weight comes down, it can react. Its super sketchy but Ive actually gotten used to it haha.

I was doing 60 at the little "hop"

 
The thing is literally like driving a boat on water.

I have to "pre turn" the wheels while the thing is weightless, so that when the weight comes down, it can react. Its super sketchy but Ive actually gotten used to it haha.

I was doing 60 at the little "hop"

After watching that I would add compression valving and maybe a touch of rebound. And sway bars, really stiff sway bars.
 
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If you want it to never come apart use green loctite, I've made Allen drivers in a pinch before by sticking an Allen bit in a socket with green loctite. Still in one piece and I made it 4 years ago. And that wasn't even a press fit like the pickup tube is

I definitely want it to stay in this time!
I think this is the stuff 78K30 might be referring to: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NFZ556P5SMSD0FEVHCBG

51aV-AWSLLL._SL1500_.jpg


I think I'll get some to use with my pickup. It will be good insurance along with the bracket that mounts to the pump mounting stud.
 
That's the exact stuff I was referring to @mrk5! Loc tite 609 is dang good stuff. A bracket like pictured above would add even more piece of mind.
 
Fixed the pan today.

I need to order the new seal and pump tonight.

Side note. This is a great reason to run an aluminum oil pan imo. If it was steel, I would have just kept running it and never known and burnt up the motor....

IMG_7184.JPG
 
I too, am confused by this comment. Do steel pans not leak when cracked in Michigan?
 
Do you watch your oil pressure gauge? :dunno:

Religiously. You guys realize the pump sits down in the pan pretty far right?

I too, am confused by this comment. Do steel pans not leak when cracked in Michigan?

I doubt it would have cracked. It would have just dented...
 
Religiously. You guys realize the pump sits down in the pan pretty far right?



I doubt it would have cracked. It would have just dented...

So...what would have been the problem with a dented pan? And how would you have burnt up the motor if you always maintained oil pressure? :dunno:
 
So...what would have been the problem with a dented pan? And how would you have burnt up the motor if you always maintained oil pressure? :dunno:


The pickup obviously helps. Going up or down a sand dune and I'm sure it lost pressure here or there for a second... Do that for a long time and I'm sure it has bad consequences.

You can't constantly watch an oil pressure gauge when you are going full throttle in the dunes. That's not safe.
 
I think what Adam is getting at is if he had a steel pan and the pick-up fell off, it would have only dented the pan. Meaning depending on the truck's attitude he could have starved the engine of oil pressure. He might have gone a while chasing an intermittent loss of oil pressure before he found the pickup had fallen off.

The cast pan gave up an early warning with the crack and leak.

I'd give the pickup a couple of good tack welds to hold it in place. It will stay put.
 
I understood what he was getting at. The leaky pan wasn't the problem. It was a symptom. The problem was the ejaculation of the pickup. That could've been hidden by a steel pan.
 

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