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diesel issues and questions?-update: fuel tank leak

lak2004

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Ok so traded my Jetta for a 84 K20 w/6.2 today. Ran great for over 30 miles and was a few blocks from home and it just died out. No battery. I tried to jump it but couldnt get it to turn over long enough. Any ideas? Think I just need to throw in new batteries? Or an alternator issue? Will an alt. from a 350 work on the 6.2?
Also, is there a proper way to jump a diesel? As in which battery to hook up to?
 
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I could be wrong but as far as jumping I dont believe it matters. I go from whatever side would be closest. what I have always been told on these forums and i find to be very true is that the charging system needs to be very clean. Terminals, cables and the end of the cables.

When you say it died out was a restart that wouldnt take or it flat out died? The reason I ask Is I believe even without the battery's or alt. the engine will still run.

Back when I got my Blazer with the diesel, I know cranking it over would drain the battery's very quickly.
 
I could be wrong but as far as jumping I dont believe it matters. I go from whatever side would be closest. what I have always been told on these forums and i find to be very true is that the charging system needs to be very clean. Terminals, cables and the end of the cables.

When you say it died out was a restart that wouldnt take or it flat out died? The reason I ask Is I believe even without the battery's or alt. the engine will still run.

Back when I got my Blazer with the diesel, I know cranking it over would drain the battery's very quickly.

Died while I was driving. Started accelerating and it just stopped and I coasted it to the side of the road. I am going to clean up the batteries and take them out to charge them tomorrow. It is literally parked about 8 blocks from my house which sucks. The cable are pretty ghetto as well, so I need to get new ones. Ill try to get pics up tomorrow.

Im just hoping the guy didnt know it was gonna have issues and just focked me over. If so payback will be a bitch on him! :mad:
 
Only thing that can kill one of these engines when it is running is a loss of power to the fuel cut off solenoid. If it wouldn't crank, I'd tend to suspect that your alternator isn't working, and the battery drained down enough for the fuel cut off solenoid to turn off.

These engines will go a long ways with very little battery life -- Mine was still running long after the electric fuel pump quit running last time I had an alternator problem.
 
Hmm so alt. sounds like the cause then. Which brings my next question: What is the best alt to put in? Is there one that is an upgrade in amps? Not going to be running anything too crazy for power, but would be nice to have something a little more powerful.
I thought the 6.2 had a mechanical pump? Would it still have the fuel cut off solenoid?
 
Yup, the 6.2L has a mechanical lift pump, and the injection pump is capable of drawing it's own fuel if required (runs poorly and smokes a bunch though). However, on the IP itself is an electric fuel cut off solenoid that turns on and off with your ignition switch. That is what allows you to shut the engine down.

If you are putting a new alternator in, install a CS130. They are a 105 amp alternator vs the 63amp you've got now, and are very common.They are found in just about every vehicle GM made from 87 or so up. There are two versions of the CS130, one will fit your truck, the other won't without fabricating new alternator brackets. The CS10 you need has the mounting ears 180 degrees apart from eachother, the other has them some other angle apart. You'll find it in certain cars at the wreckers, not in any trucks.

Installing it is easy -- The alternator bolts straight on. TheBig red wire on the post like the old one, pink / black wire runs to keyed ignition, brown wire either goes to your idiot light in the dash (if so equipped) or to a 12V power supply through a 75 ohm, 3 watt power resistor (or a 194 / 168 marker light bulb, which is effectively the same thing). Take the V-belt pully off the original alternator and swap it on to the new one.

GM makes a plug that allows you to convert to the CS130 alternator without doing any wiring. There is one that has the resistor built into it for vehicles without the idiot light, and one that is a direct connection for those that do. It costs around 30 bucks or so, and can be found at almost any GM dealership.
 
Do I want to for sure get the CS130 from a yard or can I get the same thing at autozone (obviously not GM). Dont have much time to search for one at the yard until winter is over, so I would need something I could source from Napa, Oreillys or Autozone.
Would the alternator off of my 85 K5 w/350 work? I could just use that one temporarily if so.
Thanks a lot for the help Russell, I am stoked to finally own a diesel!

Off topic: how much of a PITA is it to change the valve cover gaskets? About the same as a gasser?
 
Yup, your 350's alternator is the same thing, you can bolt it right on and plug it right in. The CS130 alternator is readily available at any parts house -- Just need to go out back and find one that has the mounting tabs directly across from each other like your current SI alternator.

Changing the valve cover gaskets is a bit of a pain on these engines... Gotta pull the intake off so you can remove the injector lines before you can get the valve covers off. Don't try bending the lines to just sneak the cover under them. They are made of an extremely hard material that has no ductility, and will crack very easily if you try to bend them.
 
Sounds like that would be a good time to swap in a J code intake as well :D

Once again thanks for the help!
 
Ok so I pulled both batteries and brought them to work to charge them, but first I tested to see what voltage they were at and they both tested at 12.15 V. Should I take them into autozone and have them load tested?
There was some sort of solenoid isolator hooked up on the drivers side to that battery, is that the glow plug controller or batt. isolator? Could that be an issue?

Think I am going to order the A/C Delco 60G glow plugs just to be sure all the glow plugs are good and working. Is there a good way to test them out?
 
The glow plugs can be tested by unplugging the wire from them,and use a test light from the battery positive terminal,to the glow plug "tab" the wire was on--it should light up if the glow plug is good..

I'd ditch ALL the glow pugs if they look old,especially if they are rusted,they can whittle down to a nub if your in a salty area very quick,and use AC 60G plugs only,because others will swell and make removal difficult or impossible---dont be surprised if some wont come out easily,or at all--especially if they were used with a manual override switch instead of the stock contoller setup--people tend to leave them on too long and cause them to swell up..the 60G's aren't supposed to swell,even if abused like that..
 
Stock controller is still there and working (AFAIK). I will definitely use the AC 60gs. Just had both batteries tested and they are both toast. And the drivers rear tire is flat. Looks like I got screwed with this thing. I will get revenge! The tranny will go out soon in the jetta I traded :D
 
Yup, that is the correct conversion pigtail you need, and that is indeed the exact alternator configuration that'll bolt onto your engine. If your truck has a voltmeter, then buy the plug that has the resistance built in. If your truck has a Gen or Alt light, then buy the plug that does not have the resistance built in.

As far as testing glow plugs go, just pop them out, grab a hunk of wire and put the body of the glow plug on the negative terminal, and the spade to the postitive terminal. The glow plug should quickly turn a consistent bright red near the tip. Any cold spots, swollen tips or inoperative plugs are bad.

One thing to note with the 60Gs is that they take a little bit longer to heat up than the stock ones. You may want to wire a resistor inline with the wire that runs to the sensor in the head to increase the glow time to about 15 seconds or so. I can't remember the exact value of resistor to put in, but a quick search should reveal some more information on the topic.

It is unusual that the truck would have a battery isolator installed, it wasn't factory at least. I'd personally remove it and use both batteries for cranking as originally intended.
 
As an alternative to the AC 60G's, you may want to look into the Kennedy Diesel plugs. I use them and they're great - 5 seconds of glow and it fires right up, and they are self-limiting so they won't swell. I've had them in for 3 years with no problems.

http://www.kennedydiesel.com/
 
Well I cant get this focker to start to save my life. I just tried for about an hour. Put 2 fully charged batts in and drained them quick trying to start it. Then jumped the battery, let it sit and would try to start with no luck. Did that for about an hour and nothing. Im fockin pissed. I traded my great running dd for a POS and now I am probably focked! :mad: On top of that the fockin drivers rear tire is flat. If this guy doesnt make things right, revenge will be had!
 
Did you test the glow pulgs? Or did I miss that you posted the results.

I bet you dont have hot plugs.
 
Im guessing the glow plugs are focked. Where are they located? This is my first diesel and I have no clue about them. Thanks
 
I'm guessing it's out of fuel...even with focked batteries it shouldn't have died on a 30 mile trip. I bought Can Can's 6.2 pick-up and the alt wasn't working on the drive home. That drive home was about 700 miles, and it never faltered. The only thing that ran the batt's down was having to use the headlights and wipers.

Rene
 
I'm guessing it's out of fuel...even with focked batteries it shouldn't have died on a 30 mile trip. I bought Can Can's 6.2 pick-up and the alt wasn't working on the drive home. That drive home was about 700 miles, and it never faltered. The only thing that ran the batt's down was having to use the headlights and wipers.

Rene

Good point... are you sure you are getting fuel?
 

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