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Dirtroadoutlaw's '86 M1009

Eh, I do need to watch the spending though because my tow pig is going to need some attention. It has the stupid 47re Torque Flight which has the very common governor problem where it, most notably, holds first too long regardless of any external adjustments. Got to get it over to my transmission guy's shop, get it on the lift, and hook up a guage and 'puter. He just serviced it for me in Feb and said that it looked remarkably good for 256k and wouldn't be failing me any time soon. Maybe it's a simple fix because to build it how I want will be just north of $2500
 
So, when assessing the condition of the 205, I found that the input had some evidence of chatter/walking of the pilot bearings, and the slider was worn, as were the corresponding surfaces of the input. The I.D. of the output shaft was still uniform according to the telescoping guage but there was some pitting on the surface where the low gear bearings ride AND it is made for the smooth-bore speedo drive gear. Not much going for it IMHO.

DD reliability has always been #1 through the duration of this build so new input and rear output shafts were in order. The front output and everything else in the lower portion of the case showed VERY minimal evidence of use and is in very good condition because of, obviously, being submerged in oil. The idler looks great too so my guess is that whichever vehicle the case came from was hardly ever put in 4wd.

Swapping to an electronic speedo and VSS was an improvement that I couldn't refuse to go with. The new rear output will accommodate a tone ring via the more modern design of the splined drive gear version. The speedometer/rear support housing will be swapped with one that's modified to accept the hall effect sensor needed to provide a pulse for the electronic speedo.

The electronic AutoMeter speedo is extremely easy to calibrate and can be recalibrated easily if I should make any tire or gear changes later. No-brainer there, right? AutoMeter also makes the same style guage as my 20 year old one but with more modern backlighting & it's electronic. Win/win!

Here's a pic of the old input and of the old slider. The rear output is in the vat so pics of that will have to wait.

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I called up my guy at Jackson Gear & Axle to buy some parts. He had a complete kit available with bearings, seals, and small parts kit all rolled into one which made things easy. He had a brand new input but I lost him when I started telling him about the output I needed. That was probably my fault because I have been known to overcomplicate. ADHD type stuff.

Anyhow, I had shopped inputs online and was a bit shocked with the price for his. $87.89 out-the-door! I couldn't believe it! I asked how many he had because I wanted to buy them all and make some money off them! Unfortunately, it was the last one, he said the one I got had been on the shelf for over 10 years, and that another new one would be almost double the price.

I had to wait a couple days for the stock order to come in so I could get my kit but I went and bought the input right then before it got away from me! Snapped a couple pics for sharing.[emoji39]

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Awesome build! Love that you kept the 6.2.

I am getting ready to add a turbo to my 6.2 in the near future. What did you do for the exhaust crossover and did you leave the 6.2 manifold on the drivers side?

Need more pics and detail on that hood stack. What diameter pipe is that? Is it crazy loud and annoying in the cab or is it bearable? I was thinking about doing something similar but could not decide if it would be too loud for all day on the trail.
 
myhichevy4x4 said:
Awesome build! Love that you kept the 6.2.

I am getting ready to add a turbo to my 6.2 in the near future. What did you do for the exhaust crossover and did you leave the 6.2 manifold on the drivers side?

Need more pics and detail on that hood stack. What diameter pipe is that? Is it crazy loud and annoying in the cab or is it bearable? I was thinking about doing something similar but could not decide if it would be too loud for all day on the trail.
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Thanks! I'll give all the details you need.

I left the 6.2 manifold on the driver side, tweaked & rigged the 6.5 crossover pipe with the intention of getting a nicer one made (still haven't) and it has worked fine for over 3 years. The exhaust is made from the 3" v-band flange and a stub from the 6.5 truck. I just bought a 4" 180* bend in 16ga steel from www.mandrel-bends.com, made a bunch of cuts & tacks to form it to the 3" then welded her all up. You have to pay attention to the flange's relation to plumb so it'll sit right once connected.
 
dirtroadoutlaw said:
Thanks! I'll give all the details you need.
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Thanks for the info. How loud is the hood stack and would you do it again? I saw earlier you said you may change it down the road.

One more questions how do you hold the top piece of the stack on? I assume it is removable so you can open the hood?

Thanks again.
 
myhichevy4x4 said:
Thanks for the info. How loud is the hood stack and would you do it again? I saw earlier you said you may change it down the road.

One more questions how do you hold the top piece of the stack on? I assume it is removable so you can open the hood?

Thanks again.
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It isn't overbearingly loud but it is loud. It is a bit more loud with the extension left off. Yes, that extension slips on and off with a little wiggling. I'd do it again. The turbo sound is well pronounced and that's a plus if you like that sort of thing.

No room inside the frame and not enough room to run it outside the frame without having tire clearance problems & I'm not tunneling the floor for it. Not notching the frame either.

Here are a couple of pics of how it ended up. I was preparing for a wheeling trip and threw it together so nothing fancy but it's purpose built and I don't do mall crawling, showing, or that type stuff so....

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This is the stack extension. Nothing but a factory 4" piece from the 6.7L Dodge at work. It was left over from the egr delete, 5" exhaust, programmer work. Worked out perfectly for the stack!

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Since I was taking pictures anyway, I thought I'd show you fellas what the OBA pumps look like. Not too fancy, but an air source! I plan to replace the small one from a train horn setup with a larger one like the other eventually. I'm happy with it for as little money as I have in it.

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dirtroadoutlaw said:
No room inside the frame and not enough room to run it outside the frame without having tire clearance problems & I'm not tunneling the floor for it. Not notching the frame either.
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Thanks again for the pics. I was trying to decide how to run the exhaust and like you said there is no room. Sorry for the thread hijack keep up the good work.
 
chevyman7579 said:
I think I missed it but what gears are you running?
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4.56's as per stock for the m10xx. I guess I didn't mention it because I didn't change gears. Just added the locker to the front. I forget which m10xx it was but it was obviously the one with an open front and detroit rear. Doesn't matter I guess.
 
That went over my head i guess when i read that. I've got a 6.2 that runs great and gets good fuel mileage and am going to run my 38.5s with 456s and was curious how yours did before turbo. I've got a 5.3 for it just wondered how it did. Thanks for answering any questions btw.
 
chevyman7579 said:
That went over my head i guess when i read that. I've got a 6.2 that runs great and gets good fuel mileage and am going to run my 38.5s with 456s and was curious how yours did before turbo. I've got a 5.3 for it just wondered how it did. Thanks for answering any questions btw.
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Mileage is still pretty dang good. I haven't really calculated it because it hasn't concerned me at all. What went over your head? The military vehicle jargon?
 
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