dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
I'll be using rods & either heims, ball/socket rod ends, or a combination of both. They will be attached to the t-case approximately where the green dots are in this pic.
CK5
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Dirtroadoutlaw's '86 M1009
- Thread starter dirtroadoutlaw
- Start date
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
I had these in a box of stuff that I have in storage. They're 5/16-24. Got some b7 all-thread to close the gaps. B7 is really strong. If too springy, I'll slip some tube over it and jam it tight.
Not too much of a length though so I don't foresee any issues. Detent is adjustable at all three points too so it's gonna work out.
Not too much of a length though so I don't foresee any issues. Detent is adjustable at all three points too so it's gonna work out.
Looking good! You have approximately 2 months to tell me if this is worth it till I order mine...LOL.
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
2 months... got it!
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
Wanna see what happens to a t-case and adapter when a front driveshaft slip binds? Here's the adapter that I pulled today. I'll see if I can find a pic of the t-case housing.
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dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
I finally got around to removing that old adapter. Actually, along with other chores as well. Changed the filter in the tranny then did a complete flush on it too. I need a new governor gear too because my current one looks awful.
Use of the .800 adapter required me to cut the tailshaft down. This isn't necessary if you have the shorter tailshaft. I have a spare th400 with the shorter version but I didn't feel like swapping transmissions.
I should get the Strong Box & t-case stabbed in sometime in the next couple days.
Use of the .800 adapter required me to cut the tailshaft down. This isn't necessary if you have the shorter tailshaft. I have a spare th400 with the shorter version but I didn't feel like swapping transmissions.
I should get the Strong Box & t-case stabbed in sometime in the next couple days.
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
I got the Strong Box and 205 hanging today. The Strong Box is bolted up permanently but the 205 is bolted loosely because further clocking will be taking place. The front output is still not as high as the 208's was even with the 205 clocked as far as it will go. FYI, that's with 1" body lift pucks too.
I'm still a little unsure of the exact crossmember configuration but I'm sure it will come to me once the clocking is done. The front one may have to be S-shaped but the two crossmembers will be tied together so I'm not worried about that. Clearing the front DS is the key there. That clearance can not be achieved with the factory crossmember which is a shame because it sits right under the front mounting ring.The adapter and Strong Box are exactly the same OD so I can move the mounting ring onto the SB if necessary.
You'll see in the pics where the floor pan will have to be cut & redone to allow further upward clocking. I'll likely cut it tomorrow. The passenger seat will have to be removed which has me thinking that the HD seats will go bye-bye sooner than I thought. Kinda looking like a can of worms but I'll work through it.
The main focus for now is getting the crossmembers done and with the TC above the bottom of the crossmembers. The idea is to put a skid plate on the bottom of them when done. Here are the few pics I got today.
I'm still a little unsure of the exact crossmember configuration but I'm sure it will come to me once the clocking is done. The front one may have to be S-shaped but the two crossmembers will be tied together so I'm not worried about that. Clearing the front DS is the key there. That clearance can not be achieved with the factory crossmember which is a shame because it sits right under the front mounting ring.The adapter and Strong Box are exactly the same OD so I can move the mounting ring onto the SB if necessary.
You'll see in the pics where the floor pan will have to be cut & redone to allow further upward clocking. I'll likely cut it tomorrow. The passenger seat will have to be removed which has me thinking that the HD seats will go bye-bye sooner than I thought. Kinda looking like a can of worms but I'll work through it.
The main focus for now is getting the crossmembers done and with the TC above the bottom of the crossmembers. The idea is to put a skid plate on the bottom of them when done. Here are the few pics I got today.
It just keeps going and going and going......
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
and going and going and going and going and going.......
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
Progress is progress regardless of how little, right?
This morning, I measured, marked, and cut the floor pan to achieve the t-case position that I wanted. I foresee cutting a cathedral-shape hole in front of the rectangular hole that I cut today that will accommodate a tapered tunnel for driveshaft clearance. We'll just have to see what I'm feeling. The hole pictured will be adjusted a little more to make clearance for flex.
I'm not sure If I want to tuck this TC up just a tad more though. The bottom of the transmission pan is now parallel to the bottom of the frame so if lifted any higher at the t-case, you know, more worms. There's a shot of the side view in these pics. There's much improved ground clearance but still not tucked all the way up like I wanted. I'll ponder on that one some more as we ring in the new year. Not sure if I want to do all the added work or not.
Looks like I'll be able to retain the current seats for a while so my wallet thanks me. Lol.
This morning, I measured, marked, and cut the floor pan to achieve the t-case position that I wanted. I foresee cutting a cathedral-shape hole in front of the rectangular hole that I cut today that will accommodate a tapered tunnel for driveshaft clearance. We'll just have to see what I'm feeling. The hole pictured will be adjusted a little more to make clearance for flex.
I'm not sure If I want to tuck this TC up just a tad more though. The bottom of the transmission pan is now parallel to the bottom of the frame so if lifted any higher at the t-case, you know, more worms. There's a shot of the side view in these pics. There's much improved ground clearance but still not tucked all the way up like I wanted. I'll ponder on that one some more as we ring in the new year. Not sure if I want to do all the added work or not.
Looks like I'll be able to retain the current seats for a while so my wallet thanks me. Lol.
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dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
The triple shifter is made for the most part. Stuck it in the rig to see what I wanted to do with the height and offset on the levers. Looks like I'll leave the right one straight and offset the others towards the driver. Height of the three will be as tall as the shortest one finishes at.
I will probably add stops on all three for when excitement precedes finesse. Nylon thrust washers and spacers will go between each hub. I changed from 50cal BMG to 20mm casings mid-way but not too hard to compensate.
I will probably add stops on all three for when excitement precedes finesse. Nylon thrust washers and spacers will go between each hub. I changed from 50cal BMG to 20mm casings mid-way but not too hard to compensate.
Is the inside one for your range box? My home made shifters were different than my ORD ones. Took me a little while to get use to it, so I put an NP203 shifter knob on the range box shifter.
Martin
Martin
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
Yes, sir. Left is range box, middle is rear output, right is front output. I assume you did cable shifters. These are rod linkage.
Nope, mine are linkage.
Martin
Martin
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
With the pivot on the tc/trans adapter?
Kind of.
Martin
Martin
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
I see, I see. Is that what you're running now?
Yes. My home made ones were kind of cheesy, and would start to bend if the NP205 bound.
Martin
Martin
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
Those certainly look strong enough. The only reason I didn't buy a shifter is the use of the cartridges. They're machined and lighted now so I can see them easy while night wheeling. That's where the chromoly tube came in... hiding wires and all.
