bp71k5
3/4 ton status
If you have crazy soft springs that let the axle move too much I suppose crossover can make things worse. Mine is awesome and have no trouble on the highway at 80+. But I have relatively firm TC 4" lift springs.
CK5
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Discuss crossover steering: Close to OEM height daily driver
- Thread starter my kids took the truck
- Start date
A vote up for crossover: I am not commited to my current springs. At the least, the fronts could use new bushings if there is a problem. Stepping to new springs all around is within the scope of possibilities -- I'd have to justify it somehow beyond just having a lift.
Also, I have been living temporarily in PA for the past couple years. Do you ever get over this way?
My wife drives this with the kids so whatever I do needs to work like a grandma can drive it (my grandma actually used to drive this k5).
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Where did you buy yours from?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Offroad Design
Where did you get your crossover steering from?
@Liberator who made your crossover steering?
I'm searching online about crossover steering and find this post with a K5 setup just like mine... then I see it's me five years ago.
I got the steering box rebuilt. It was money well spent. I stopped there.
I got the steering box rebuilt. It was money well spent. I stopped there.
nitro_rat
1/2 ton status
To answer the previous questions about Fords with factory “crossover” steering, they also have a panhard bar parallel to the drag link that mitigates the bump steer issue at the expense of articulation and also ride quality. The panhard bar binds against the free travel of the leaf springs but keeps the steering manageable to average drivers at highway speeds…
Crossover with no panahard bar and no sway bar has as much or more bump steer and wander as the factory push/pull arrangement. The benefit is full steering at full articulation on the trail at the expense of highway manners.
For mildly lifted and mildly driven trucks stock steering is usually the best answer!
Crossover with no panahard bar and no sway bar has as much or more bump steer and wander as the factory push/pull arrangement. The benefit is full steering at full articulation on the trail at the expense of highway manners.
For mildly lifted and mildly driven trucks stock steering is usually the best answer!
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I can only say I have no panhard bar and no sway bar with crossover steering. The thing doesn’t wander or have bump steer. I had much more wandering with the stock steering, but was using the factory rag joint.
nitro_rat
1/2 ton status
I’m running a parts store reman box (probably Cardone), Dorman rag joint, good condition drag link, tie rods, and ball joints, 2” Tuff Country springs, dead rear shocks off a K20, no sway bar, no bad manners. I would describe my driving style as “aggressive.”
I run crossover on a 4” lift with a d60 and 37’s and it drives way better than the factory push pull system ever did.
When I swapped to crossover, I noticed less brake related steering. It seems more controlled to me, even though it can have some delays in reaction since I have soft ORD springs. My '90 is kinda like hearding a marshmallow in some aspects, but I just hold the wheel where I want it to go, and it works. Body roll is worse with it than my '70 of course.
I really like the lack of "brake steering " on both of them!
I really like the lack of "brake steering " on both of them!
One thing I didn’t realize I’d have to fight with steering was the engine. When I replaced the engine mounts with new ones, it feels like the truck is going to lift a tire making a left turn from a stop. It’s ridiculous. Definitely wasn’t something I had to deal with with the factory steering.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I’ve got exact same setup and response.
rs6
90 K5 Jimmy (sold) 86 M1008 Duramax L5P/Allison
I have a 1996 K30 with ORD 4" springs and ORD crossover setup as well as a nearly completely stock 1990 Jimmy (redhead box only mod). The K30 frontend steers and rides far better than the Jimmy in every way. I will likely do ORD 2" all around with crossover on the Jimmy eventually, my issue is I don't want to lift it too high to fit in the garage. Plus the K30 with 4" suspension and 3" body sitting on 37's is just too damn tall.
Stephen told me that they found the minimum lift to run crossover was 3", IIRC. Trying to keep the drag link from hitting the right frame rail with the right side stuffed was the limiting factor for minimum height. And it can't drop down on the right knuckle without rubbing the top of some leaf springs.
Making it fit with a low lift would be very good.
Making it fit with a low lift would be very good.
rs6
90 K5 Jimmy (sold) 86 M1008 Duramax L5P/Allison
Can't help but wonder if at least part of that is for high-steer along with crossover, though they both go together for hard-core off-road rigs. If you retained the tie rod and the drag link under the steering arm would it not offer a compromise? The tapers would have to go the other way, but I remember this being a topic on low-SAS Toyotas years ago. (I'm a long-term Toyota guy just getting back into square bodies since the 1990's.)
.....after looking around a bit this doesn't seem possible for the drag link on a 10-bolt/D44. My D60 front is high-steer.
.....after looking around a bit this doesn't seem possible for the drag link on a 10-bolt/D44. My D60 front is high-steer.
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My '70 has ORD springs with a D44 and the drag link gently touches the top of the spring pack because if the thickness of the springs and the amount of drop in the pitman arm. No high steer.
So I don't see how it would be possible to go under the steering arm.
So I don't see how it would be possible to go under the steering arm.
