Yes, I think the part number is back on the first page of the build thread
CK5
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DO NOT OPEN IN PUBLIC, YOU WILL BECOME INSTANTLY ERECT!!!
- Thread starter truck-oholic
- Start date
Yes, I think the part number is back on the first page of the build thread
Thanks, I must have overlooked it
no prob, here you go Schoenfeld 1302LS1
I've had my eyes on those for a while, been worried about fitment though. Everyone says they fit great..
Yeah, like a glove!
Got shock mounts tacked on today.
For some reason my truck has a 1/2" gangsta lean to the driver's side right now and I don't know what is causing it but its really annoying me.
I may wind up having to do some spring plate clearancing, not sure on that until I finally cycle the suspension some
I went high on this initial mock up just to be conservative. This is 5.5-6" of up travel. The final iteration will probably see these towers drop down another inch or so. Again, need to cycle the suspension to see what I'm working with. Right now my bumps are set up to start making contact at 5" up travel and they can be adjusted in 1" increments. I may also lose one more leaf from my 52 pack before its all said and done so I will wait till much later to finish weld the shock towers.
For some reason my truck has a 1/2" gangsta lean to the driver's side right now and I don't know what is causing it but its really annoying me.
I may wind up having to do some spring plate clearancing, not sure on that until I finally cycle the suspension some
I went high on this initial mock up just to be conservative. This is 5.5-6" of up travel. The final iteration will probably see these towers drop down another inch or so. Again, need to cycle the suspension to see what I'm working with. Right now my bumps are set up to start making contact at 5" up travel and they can be adjusted in 1" increments. I may also lose one more leaf from my 52 pack before its all said and done so I will wait till much later to finish weld the shock towers.
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So here is the plan, move my bump stops down 1" and offset them in closer to the frame so I am not on the u bolt nuts. Also move my shock towers down ~1/2". This would give me 1" of up travel left once the bumpstops start to make contact with the spring plates and 1" of down travel left once the axle reaches full droop (as simulated above). With the weight of the wheel and tire and if the other side is at full stuff I am sure I will use up that last inch. I may wind up having to install some limit straps . . . we will see. I am going to move my bumpstops down the 1" and recheck flex to see how much those bumps will compress at full stuff. Anybody know from personal experience?
Also measured for the front driveshaft while I was doing this and came up with 39" at ride height, 37.5" full stuff, 43.5" full droop so I am going to get a 7" useable slip shaft. I think I am going to go 1410 joints on the front without a CV to try to get max angle with max clearance for the exhaust. It's either that or 1350 super flex joints from Tom Woods. I want to run a 2" .120 wall tube. Any opinions?
Also measured for the front driveshaft while I was doing this and came up with 39" at ride height, 37.5" full stuff, 43.5" full droop so I am going to get a 7" useable slip shaft. I think I am going to go 1410 joints on the front without a CV to try to get max angle with max clearance for the exhaust. It's either that or 1350 super flex joints from Tom Woods. I want to run a 2" .120 wall tube. Any opinions?
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
Seems good right?
Yeah, i am pretty pleased. I don't think I will have to clearance the spring plates any for the shocks but I might have to clearance them for the steering. Next time I flex this out with the bumps 1" lower I am going to measure travel at the wheel mounting surface to see what the real number is for articulation. I am using a full 14" of shock but that is going to be less than actual wheel travel. Hope I can get the rear 56s to around the same numbers.
Saying goodbye to the 1980 parts blazer i bought a couple months ago. Got a bunch of good parts off it that are going on my 77, sold a bunch of parts to help other people with their builds, and now it is headed to the scrap yard. All said and done, I made $875 over what I paid for it not including whatever the yard gives me tomorrow.
This was it's last donation to my truck before loading it up on the trailer.
This was it's last donation to my truck before loading it up on the trailer.
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Poor blazer rip
I had it down to 1,000 lbs according to the scrap scale. It's spirit will live on in a LOT of other projects so don't go getting all teared up on me.
:sniffle:
I see a few decent looking parts still there believe it or not..the frame looks decent (maybe in the rear it isn't,cant tell),the dash pad ,master cyl. & booster,heater blower motor & core,steering colum,maybe the cluster,and some other trinkets..
The way it is getting to find ANY parts here,is causing people to go to salvage yards and strip everything removeable off any trucks they get in ,and they either hoard the parts for themselves,or E-bay them at a decent profit..
Always sad to see a truck make its last ride to a scrapyard..
The way it is getting to find ANY parts here,is causing people to go to salvage yards and strip everything removeable off any trucks they get in ,and they either hoard the parts for themselves,or E-bay them at a decent profit..
Always sad to see a truck make its last ride to a scrapyard..
A lot of that stuff was not in good shape and some of it I just didn't have time to strip or didn't feel it was worth the effort. I was really wanting to get it off the jack stands and out of the driveway for a reason that will soon be disclosed. Still keeping it hush hush for the time being.
Have had a couple people express interest in the through-the-bed weatherproof shock boots so figured I would get some more detailed pics up for anyone that wants to borrow the idea. Here ya go . . .
5" diameter hole drilled in bed
This is one style of toilet flange from Home Depot. See the flared inner lip? It sits perfectly inside the PVC piece below.
I can't remember what the bottom piece was (maybe drain adapter?) but the small side takes a 4" PVC pipe and the big side is a 5" inner diameter. I cut both sides down to make it more compact and then glued in a short piece of 4" PVC for the 2-4" rubber adapter boot to attach to.
Here it is in the 5" hole
The outer lip of the lower piece is what actually sits up against the bottom side of the bed floor
I used a different style stainless toilet flange for the top since it is a little nicer looking. You could make something similar out of plate steel if you don't like the toilet flange idea. It was just less work and already had everything lined up to mate with the lower toilet flange.
Here is the finished look from back when I had the RS9000s in there.
With a 2" OD shock you will have 1" clearance all the way around.
5" diameter hole drilled in bed
This is one style of toilet flange from Home Depot. See the flared inner lip? It sits perfectly inside the PVC piece below.
I can't remember what the bottom piece was (maybe drain adapter?) but the small side takes a 4" PVC pipe and the big side is a 5" inner diameter. I cut both sides down to make it more compact and then glued in a short piece of 4" PVC for the 2-4" rubber adapter boot to attach to.
Here it is in the 5" hole
The outer lip of the lower piece is what actually sits up against the bottom side of the bed floor
I used a different style stainless toilet flange for the top since it is a little nicer looking. You could make something similar out of plate steel if you don't like the toilet flange idea. It was just less work and already had everything lined up to mate with the lower toilet flange.
Here is the finished look from back when I had the RS9000s in there.
With a 2" OD shock you will have 1" clearance all the way around.
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