You should always push a weld with mig
CK5
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DO NOT OPEN IN PUBLIC, YOU WILL BECOME INSTANTLY ERECT!!!
- Thread starter truck-oholic
- Start date
I don't think you can make that kind of absolute statement. There are a lot of professional welders who drag instead of push and there is more than one way to do everything. Regardless, I won't be dragged into a debate on the issue.
See what I did there?
Got the painted diff cover back on the K5. That winch cable is just hung on some body bolts to give an idea of angles. When finished it will run perfectly in line with the diff cover sheave
The back end of this Blazer has a lot of cool stuff going on and the diff cover with sheave looks even better installed
In the not too distant future I think I will be welding the axle side bump stop pads into place and then the whole axle can be painted gloss black. Spring plates and antiwrap bar will get the same gloss tan paint as the calipers, diff cover, & pinion guard.
I don't think you can make that kind of absolute statement. There are a lot of professional welders who drag instead of push and there is more than one way to do everything. Regardless, I won't be dragged into a debate on the issue.
See what I did there?
Yes that is true, if you are using flux core would be the exception. If there is slag, you drag. Its your truck do what you want. I didn't say the welds were bad and you will kill a bunch of nuns. I was taught by a welding instructor to push when using mig. I used to pull all the time until he came and said" You weld pretty good for doing it completely wrong" . Sorry for my blanket statement .
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Evan Miller
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You absolutely cannot make that kind of statement. I didn't catch the users name but he and welding topics don't mix one bit.
Evan Miller
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Truckoholic.
I was just giving you a hard time. I'm sure it won't pull apart. Your welding skill is fantastic
I was just giving you a hard time. I'm sure it won't pull apart. Your welding skill is fantastic
waybad1
1/2 ton status
What kind/shape pad are you going to weld onto the housing?
Are you talking about for the bump stops? If so there are a couple pics back on the first page of the build.
They are adjustable by 2". This is the fully collapsed position.
waybad1
1/2 ton status
That's what I was looking for, Thanks
DIY4X order came in so I had some prep work to do for the rear suck down winch mount crossmembers. The back two crossmembers will be tied together with plate steel creating a platform for the suck down winch to mount to. This assembly will go in the straight section of frame rail under the rear seat. The crossmember in the foreground will go almost directly over the axle sheave and is where the winch cable will terminate after going down to the sheave and back up to the crossmember. In order to determine crossmember length I measured in between frame rails from the inside lip of the C to the inside lip of the C. This number was 27". I then subtracted 1/2" (2x1/4) so that the total crossmember length with the cage flanges will be 27". Here is where I do things a little different. I bought 6 pairs of cage flanges for 3 crossmembers so that I can weld a cage flange at each end to the face of the frame boxing that will be 1/8" plate. The extra cage flange will act as both a fish plate gusset and allow my frame boxing plate to be inset 1/4" in the frame rail to give room for a healthy weld bead while still keeping the crossmembers flush with the 27" gap so that they can drop straight down for easy removal. I did this same setup for my main t-case/antiwrap crossmember but on a bigger scale.
Tabs facing toward the winch will get a homemade roller assembly like I made for the front suck down winch. This will route the winch cable down to the axle sheave. The tabs facing right will have a 5/8 bolt that goes through the cable end eyelet after it comes up through the sheave. Once everything is mocked up in place these tab pairs will be welded together and then welded to the tube in the correct orientation.
This is a photo from earlier in the build so you can see how the crossmembers will be setup with the frame boxing and extra cage flanges acting as fish plate spacers
It's just C-channel with some angle iron welded to the face so there isn't a hard 90 edge. The square tube is sleeved inside with some smaller square tube that is welded to the C-channel. This lets the pad slide up as much as 2" on mine. You could have more adjustment by having a longer outer tube but I measured what my bump should be and just wanted a little bit of fudge factor in case I added a zero rate or something.
waybad1
1/2 ton status
I like the adjustable bump stops. Takes the guess work out of exactly how tall/short you want them. Any ideas on how the
exhaust is going to run towards the back of the truck? I have dual pipes that I need to reconfigure to fit an anti-wrap bar.
exhaust is going to run towards the back of the truck? I have dual pipes that I need to reconfigure to fit an anti-wrap bar.
Pretty sure I am going to do a Y pipe under the trans above the belly skid and run single 2.5" or so out the driver's side. With the clocked 205 on the driver's side AND the antiwrap bar there is just no good route to go duals on my truck.
More rear suck down winch progress.
One cool feature of the Versanotcher I bought is that it can do offset notches. I offset these notches by 1/8" so that the top of this 1.5" square tube would sit flush with the top of the 1.75" DOM suck down winch crossmembers
This is the underside of the rear suck down winch mount
Winch plate can now sit on top of the 1.5" square tube and be even with the top of the 1.75" DOM for good welding. I welded all four corners of the winch plate to the square tube and DOM and two rosette welds per side to the square tube
Front side of the winch plate which actually faces rearward hence the "back" written on the rear tube of the suck down winch mount
Roller fairlead in place
Winch mocked up
Pic with the other crossmember that will have the frame side pulley and winch cable eye bolt
Hopefully you are starting to get the idea here
One cool feature of the Versanotcher I bought is that it can do offset notches. I offset these notches by 1/8" so that the top of this 1.5" square tube would sit flush with the top of the 1.75" DOM suck down winch crossmembers
This is the underside of the rear suck down winch mount
Winch plate can now sit on top of the 1.5" square tube and be even with the top of the 1.75" DOM for good welding. I welded all four corners of the winch plate to the square tube and DOM and two rosette welds per side to the square tube
Front side of the winch plate which actually faces rearward hence the "back" written on the rear tube of the suck down winch mount
Roller fairlead in place
Winch mocked up
Pic with the other crossmember that will have the frame side pulley and winch cable eye bolt
Hopefully you are starting to get the idea here
Evan Miller
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Looks baddass, your giving me some ideas
Got some steel plate for frame boxing so I can continue with the rear suck down winch portion of this build.
1/8" mild steel plate for frame boxing
Little Caesar's pizza box template. These pizza boxes are pretty good template material. They are thinner than standard packaging boxes and pretty flexible.
Ready to cut out with angle grinder cutoff wheel
Ready to test fit in frame
Pretty good fit all things considered
Ready to cut out the other side to match
1/8" mild steel plate for frame boxing
Little Caesar's pizza box template. These pizza boxes are pretty good template material. They are thinner than standard packaging boxes and pretty flexible.
Ready to cut out with angle grinder cutoff wheel
Ready to test fit in frame
Pretty good fit all things considered
Ready to cut out the other side to match
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Nice job. Just a heads up. DIY4x will sell you the front half of their kit since itll fit most years. Cost me $50 and saved me some headache. Just need to figure out how it goes around/ ties in to the motor mount area...
I seriously considered buying their frame boxing kit from the start but I am cheap and couldn't justify $200 + shipping (the real killer) for something that I would probably still have to modify to fit my needs. I am definitely going to box the frame between the tranny up to the shackle hanger and may or may not box some up at the motor but this piece of 1/8" plate that I got locally for $40 should be able to do everything I need.
Great looking stuff......I'll be watching. I'm particularly interested in how you do your cage. I've been goin back and forth with running it thru the dash or in front. I'd rather go thru the dash, but I'm afraid it's going to make the A/C ducting non-op.
Yeah, I've been saying that I am going to get started on this cage forever now. Keep getting sidetracked. Once the weather warms up I am going to go ahead and bang it out. Did you see my sketches from several pages ago? I can't remember for certain but I think through the dash or in front is still up in the air for me. That is pretty bad that I can't even remember which direction I was leaning towards, been way too long.
If you like what I am doing here be sure to check out one of my current distractions in the Offroad Go Cart Build thread in the Garage section
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/offroad-go-cart-build-bulk-head-reinforcement.324378/
