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Doing 52's up front with Bilsteins, 255/70 a good valving? Also, Furd shock tower mounting ?'s too.

Most of your questions have been answered, but I'll add my .02

I did rip a Furd tower off on one side just using the two bolts. It may have gotten loose over time or something, but if I did them again I would gusset the back side of them to the top of the frame.

I ran 15" shocks all the way around as well. 5" up and 10" down was how I had them set. In the rear my mounts were a little lower on the axle tube to use stock upper mounts. You could easily get away with a 12 or a 14 in the rear and stock mounts.

Bump stops up front are critical to keeping the springs alive IMO. I killed my first set quick over compressing them.

I thought about limit straps, but never did it as during full droop I am typically moving pretty slow and never found the shocks were topping out.

For the front shaft I went with the long slip 10 spline setup. Not great for high speed 4wd street type stuff I don't think, but cheapisj and perfect for a wheeler.
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
Most of your questions have been answered, but I'll add my .02

I did rip a Furd tower off on one side just using the two bolts. It may have gotten loose over time or something, but if I did them again I would gusset the back side of them to the top of the frame.

I ran 15" shocks all the way around as well. 5" up and 10" down was how I had them set. In the rear my mounts were a little lower on the axle tube to use stock upper mounts. You could easily get away with a 12 or a 14 in the rear and stock mounts.

Bump stops up front are critical to keeping the springs alive IMO. I killed my first set quick over compressing them.

I thought about limit straps, but never did it as during full droop I am typically moving pretty slow and never found the shocks were topping out.

For the front shaft I went with the long slip 10 spline setup. Not great for high speed 4wd street type stuff I don't think, but cheapisj and perfect for a wheeler.
Click to expand...

So i can stuff a 14" travel shock in the rear without relocating any of the mounting points for the shock? And I would have to worry about damaging the shock at all?

If that's the case I'll just buy x4 of the 14" 5125's and be done.
 
Hey fellas,

I'm only find the 5125 in a 255/70.

I have no clue about how to re-valve an adjustable shock for a heavier valving.

The truck currently has a SBC, have an LQ4 out of an '04 Denali sitting in the garage with 242 heads and a Comp 224/230 cam with the appropriate valve springs. Plan on putting that in within the next few months, maybe early ne t year but I'll still be around SBC weight up front, maybe even lighter with the aluminum LS heads.

No winch or winch bumper for now, no bumper at all lol.

Based on what everyone is saying and what @MTBLAZER89 said about the rear shocks I may just go 255/70 valves 14" travel 5125's at all four corners.

The 5125's fit into my budget and I'm guessing will be a lot better than most of the offerings out there even if the calving isnt 100% perfect.

What say you? Order x4 of em tonight so I can get this pig rolling?
 
handloader90 said:
So i can stuff a 14" travel shock in the rear without relocating any of the mounting points for the shock? And I would have to worry about damaging the shock at all?

If that's the case I'll just buy x4 of the 14" 5125's and be done.
Click to expand...

I ran the 15" Procomps on the rear with stock mounts and around 5" of lift..maybe a little more. Only had 4" uptravel or so, but like I said I had the stock shock mounts on the 14BFF that hung down a little. High cleanance mounts might make 14-15 too long.
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
I ran the 15" Procomps on the rear with stock mounts and around 5" of lift..maybe a little more. Only had 4" uptravel or so, but like I said I had the stock shock mounts on the 14BFF that hung down a little. High cleanance mounts might make 14-15 too long.
Click to expand...
Is 4" of up travel enough in the rear?
 
tenderfoot said:
Keep working on her and you can name her Bad Banana
Click to expand...

Its definitely bad lmao... not in a good way though.

Waiting on a few more parts to come in and I have to take one of my flat top knuckles to a buddy to get machined, drilled and tapped. Then the driveway build begins.

Picking up a set of used Big O brand all-terrains in a 315/75r16 this Saturday for a very reasonable price and have a set of black steeples with 4" backspace to put them on.

Gotta order shocks, those fancy polyurethane extended bumpstops and I think that's about it minus getting a long slip shaft made or conjuring up something.

IMG_20180711_115451_864.jpg

IMG_20180709_182901_584.jpg

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So is 4" of up travel on the rear axle a good amount or not enough?

And I need ya'll to tell me to order these x4 14" travel shocks lol.
 
Also, will the stock front driveshaft be useable at all at with the 52's and the axle being pushed forward a little bit due to the 52's.

Just in case i was lazy about getting a nice shaft made would I still be able to rock 4x4 if I find myself in a hairy situation?
 
handloader90 said:
So is 4" of up travel on the rear axle a good amount or not enough?

And I need ya'll to tell me to order these x4 14" travel shocks lol.
Click to expand...

Seemed to work.

As for the front shaft you "may" be able to hook it up depeding on how your 52s are setup, but it wouldn't work for wheeling. Any droop would separate it.

DSCN5583.JPG
 
Ya'll getting these long slip shafts made local or ordering from a place like High Angle Driveline?
 
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