54inches
1/2 ton status
Thanks, can't wait!
CK5
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Dual Circuit Windstar Fan - Final Shroud Update 05/11/11
- Thread starter Lunatic
- Start date
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
I was going to let this thread sink down the list - Being that I am inside my own schedule, but.....quoted for saying....
I have re-claimed a bench! I sent the wife out today to get some SOLOs so I can finish the shroud. With a 3 day weekend coming, this could be a very interesting Thursday night coming up. No promises, but maybe this weekend there'll be some "almost finished" pics to upload.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
I have re-claimed a bench! I sent the wife out today to get some SOLOs so I can finish the shroud. With a 3 day weekend coming, this could be a very interesting Thursday night coming up. No promises, but maybe this weekend there'll be some "almost finished" pics to upload.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
54inches
1/2 ton status
Awesome!
SOLOs?
SOLOs?
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
I guess I could have said......Dixies.... lol
For breaking down pre-measured jars of epoxy into smaller more manageable volume.
I did a little work on the shroud tonight, trying to prep for tomorrow. No pics tonight, but they will be posted in sequence once I'm on to trimming and finish.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
For breaking down pre-measured jars of epoxy into smaller more manageable volume.
I did a little work on the shroud tonight, trying to prep for tomorrow. No pics tonight, but they will be posted in sequence once I'm on to trimming and finish.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Quick question on the temp switch. What is the wiring for it.
T1 = low temp activation
T2 = higher temp activation
3rd post = ?
T1 = low temp activation
T2 = higher temp activation
3rd post = ?
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
The third connection is the ground. The red boxed area is where ya want to look.
Still trying to finish the upper shroud - I did get another coat on it, but time is terribly hard to come by atm. I'll just keep plugging away at it until done, and post pics then....
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Still trying to finish the upper shroud - I did get another coat on it, but time is terribly hard to come by atm. I'll just keep plugging away at it until done, and post pics then....
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Is the thread for this switch M14-1.5? I am going to try and source the tap from work or a friend so I don't have to pay for that too. I see in the diagram and you also mentioned M14 but not the pitch of the threads. Thanks
Harley
Harley
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
You are correct - The sending unit is a M14-1.5. Good eye !
I wonder what (if anything) I'll accomplish this coming 3-day weekend...
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
I wonder what (if anything) I'll accomplish this coming 3-day weekend...
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Ya, I found it on Echlin/Napa website a few minutes ago. There is also another switch (FS270) that is set to 174* & 194* I found on there.
The Echlin number for the switch you have is FS220.
The Echlin number for the switch you have is FS220.
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the information on the second switch with lower temps - Its always nice to have options !!
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
54inches
1/2 ton status
nick9004
Registered Member
Lunatic, That is clean! Nicely done!
My fan clutch has packed it in and after seeing your install and the fact that I happen to have a Windstar fan sitting in the shed...
My question for you. If your fan switch doesn't turn on until 194, does your engine run any hotter than it did before? Reason I'm asking is right now my engine rarely reaches over 187. I get worried when it goes to like 192 in the summer. Should I be or should I just leave it and run it a little hotter? I do have a 195 thermostat which I thought would at least let it get to 195. Or does a 195 thermostat not necessarily mean the engine will heat up to that?
Thanks! Can't wait to see the shroud finished! And those brackets make me drool!
My fan clutch has packed it in and after seeing your install and the fact that I happen to have a Windstar fan sitting in the shed...
My question for you. If your fan switch doesn't turn on until 194, does your engine run any hotter than it did before? Reason I'm asking is right now my engine rarely reaches over 187. I get worried when it goes to like 192 in the summer. Should I be or should I just leave it and run it a little hotter? I do have a 195 thermostat which I thought would at least let it get to 195. Or does a 195 thermostat not necessarily mean the engine will heat up to that?
Thanks! Can't wait to see the shroud finished! And those brackets make me drool!
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
As for the thermostat rating - I believe the 195* is the stocker. Since I bought my K5 two plus years ago, it has always run around 210*.
With that being said, I can not testify to the accuracy of the/my gauge itself. I may be running cooler, possibly a bit warmer - I wont know until I get into my dash mod...Another story down the road.
With either the old clutch fan or with the Windstar - I run 210*, havent had any overheating problems or symptoms of the like. If you are concerned about running too hot, thanks to Hossbaby50 and his discovery - You can run the lower rated temp switch. The possible downside to this is your fans will stay on more than they will off. As it stands with my own - My secondary has yet to kick in out of neccessity to this day.
As for the workings of the thermostat, you can safely assume the engine coolant will run a little hotter than the rating of the stat. This is due to the fact that once the coolant already has hit 195, it will still be cycling through the engine after the thermostat opens, taking heat with it, until it is cycled through your radiator a few times and cools everything off again, eventually cooling off enough to close the stat again, starting the entire senario over.
The shroud is proving terribly difficult to finish. Fortunately, Im not referring to the physical labor/fabrication side. I keep a list on a dry erase board of just about anything my other half mentions "needing" to be done. I thought I had a window to move forward two weeks ago, after busting butt all week during the evenings after work. I had closed the gap, and suddenly, "this" popped up, or "that" became important.
Thats life. I am still driving the list down, almost to another window (Looking at this weekend, hopefully). Im considering a new "tool" purchase....
DUCT TAPE, use as deemed necessary.......
Thanks for the kind words !
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
With that being said, I can not testify to the accuracy of the/my gauge itself. I may be running cooler, possibly a bit warmer - I wont know until I get into my dash mod...Another story down the road.
With either the old clutch fan or with the Windstar - I run 210*, havent had any overheating problems or symptoms of the like. If you are concerned about running too hot, thanks to Hossbaby50 and his discovery - You can run the lower rated temp switch. The possible downside to this is your fans will stay on more than they will off. As it stands with my own - My secondary has yet to kick in out of neccessity to this day.
As for the workings of the thermostat, you can safely assume the engine coolant will run a little hotter than the rating of the stat. This is due to the fact that once the coolant already has hit 195, it will still be cycling through the engine after the thermostat opens, taking heat with it, until it is cycled through your radiator a few times and cools everything off again, eventually cooling off enough to close the stat again, starting the entire senario over.
The shroud is proving terribly difficult to finish. Fortunately, Im not referring to the physical labor/fabrication side. I keep a list on a dry erase board of just about anything my other half mentions "needing" to be done. I thought I had a window to move forward two weeks ago, after busting butt all week during the evenings after work. I had closed the gap, and suddenly, "this" popped up, or "that" became important.
Thats life. I am still driving the list down, almost to another window (Looking at this weekend, hopefully). Im considering a new "tool" purchase....
DUCT TAPE, use as deemed necessary.......
Thanks for the kind words !
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
nick9004
Registered Member
Yeah I think I will go with the same switch you used. If I have a 195 thermostat, meaning I have essentially a governed operating temp at 195. Under majority of driving conditions the cooling system should be able to keep it around that temperature by design. The fan is basically just to help the cooling system when it needs it. So if I have a fan switch turn on a primary fan at 194ish together the entire system should work efficiently together. The fan should only run when operating temperatures get above the 194-195 point which is all the thermostat is trying to keep it at anyway. As for running to hot, well if your running between 200 and 210... I should be plenty fine at 195 as it doesn't get nearly as hot here as it does in Texas.
Another question for you, your dual circuit fan switch (TFS579) uses a special pigtail. Where did you get this? Is there a part number for it?
Thanks for confirming my thermostat and temperature ideas! Weekend is coming hope you can find some time for that shroud!
Another question for you, your dual circuit fan switch (TFS579) uses a special pigtail. Where did you get this? Is there a part number for it?
Thanks for confirming my thermostat and temperature ideas! Weekend is coming hope you can find some time for that shroud!
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Oh boy - The pigtails...... Were my good fortune. Finding them in a parts store - I dont "think" its possible. When I was hunting the yard for the switch, I was also hunting the pigtails, and was lucky enough to find a serviceable set.
In a yard - It shouldnt be too difficult to locate a set - A serviceable set however (un-weathered, not crushed, etc) is the fortune you hope to find.
I found two switches and one pigtail set that day. I....mis-placed......them in the yard and out of pure disappointment of having them and then losing them - left empty....handed. I emptied my pockets that night for the laundry basket and there they were (wow). I assume they must have fallen off the fender of the vehicle I was working over....Into my pockets ?
That my story anyway.
Good luck !
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
In a yard - It shouldnt be too difficult to locate a set - A serviceable set however (un-weathered, not crushed, etc) is the fortune you hope to find.
I found two switches and one pigtail set that day. I....mis-placed......them in the yard and out of pure disappointment of having them and then losing them - left empty....handed. I emptied my pockets that night for the laundry basket and there they were (wow). I assume they must have fallen off the fender of the vehicle I was working over....Into my pockets ?
That my story anyway.
Good luck !
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
nick9004
Registered Member
Lunatic what have you done I can't seem to pry my eyes off of your pictures!
Another question for you... Your shroud.. The first few steps you have blue tape on the area to be glassed. What is under that tape? Looks like your plan is to replace the OE rad brackets with the shroud/bracket, which before I saw those pictures I thought I had a great suggestion for you.... nvm... you beat me too it. Are they blocks of some sort that will be the contact between the rad and the shroud?
On that wiring pigtail, if you ever happen to need a replacement, I think I may have found something. Can't find the link I found this on but looks like any of these BMWs use the TFS579 switch, meaning they should all have the pigtail. Also I wonder if you could buy a brand new pigtail from BMW... mind you for a price probably.
1997 BMW 318is (engine: 1.9L 1895CC L4 FI VIN: M44 )
1997 BMW 840Ci (engine: 4.4L 4398CC V8 FI VIN: M62 )
1997 BMW 850Ci (engine: 5.4L 5379CC V12 FI VIN: M73 )
1996 BMW 318is (engine: 1.9L 1895CC L4 FI VIN: M44 )
1996 BMW 840Ci (engine: 4.4L 4398CC V8 FI VIN: M62 )
1996 BMW 850Ci (engine: 5.4L 5379CC V12 FI VIN: M73 )
1995 BMW 318is (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1995 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50TU )
1995 BMW 325is (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50TU )
1995 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1995 BMW 525iT (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1995 BMW 530i (engine: 3.0L 2997CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1995 BMW 530iT (engine: 3.0L 2997CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1995 BMW 540i (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1995 BMW 840Ci (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1995 BMW 850Ci (engine: 5.4L 5379CC V12 FI VIN: M73 )
1995 BMW 850CSi (engine: 5.6L 5576CC V12 FI VIN: S70 )
1994 BMW 318is (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1994 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50TU )
1994 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1994 BMW 525it (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1994 BMW 530i (engine: 3.0L 2997CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 530iT (engine: 3.0L 2997CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 540i (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 740i (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 740iL (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1994 BMW 840Ci (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 850Ci (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1994 BMW 850CSi (engine: 5.6L 5576CC V12 FI VIN: S70 )
1993 BMW 318is (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1993 BMW 325I (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1993 BMW 325I (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50TU )
1993 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1993 BMW 525iT (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1993 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1993 BMW 740i (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1993 BMW 740iL (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1993 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1993 BMW 850Ci (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1993 BMW M5 (engine: 3.6L 3553CC L6 FI VIN: S38 )
1992 BMW 318is (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1992 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1992 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1992 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1992 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1992 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1992 BMW 735iL (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1992 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1992 BMW 850i (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1992 BMW M5 (engine: 3.6L 3553CC L6 FI VIN: S38 )
1991 BMW 318i (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1991 BMW 318ic (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1991 BMW 318is (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1991 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1991 BMW 325is (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1991 BMW 325iX (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1991 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1991 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1991 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1991 BMW 735iL (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1991 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1991 BMW 850i (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1991 BMW M3 (engine: 2.3L 2302CC L4 FI VIN: S14 )
1991 BMW M5 (engine: 3.6L 3553CC L6 FI VIN: S38 )
1990 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1990 BMW 325is (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1990 BMW 325iX (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1990 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1990 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1990 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1990 BMW 735iL (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1990 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1990 BMW M3 (engine: 2.3L 2302CC L4 FI VIN: S14 )
1989 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1989 BMW 325iS (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1989 BMW 325iX (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1989 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1989 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1989 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1989 BMW 735iL (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1989 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1989 BMW M3 (engine: 2.3L 2302CC L4 FI VIN: S14 )
1988 BMW 325 (engine: 2.7L 2693CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1988 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1988 BMW 325iS (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1988 BMW 325iX (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1988 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1988 BMW 535iS (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1988 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1988 BMW 735iL (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1988 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1988 BMW M3 (engine: 2.3L 2302CC L4 FI VIN: S14 )
1988 BMW M5 (engine: 3.5L 3453CC L6 FI VIN: S38 - DOHC )
1987 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1987 BMW 325iS (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1987 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30
Another question for you... Your shroud.. The first few steps you have blue tape on the area to be glassed. What is under that tape? Looks like your plan is to replace the OE rad brackets with the shroud/bracket, which before I saw those pictures I thought I had a great suggestion for you.... nvm...
you beat me too it. Are they blocks of some sort that will be the contact between the rad and the shroud?On that wiring pigtail, if you ever happen to need a replacement, I think I may have found something. Can't find the link I found this on but looks like any of these BMWs use the TFS579 switch, meaning they should all have the pigtail. Also I wonder if you could buy a brand new pigtail from BMW... mind you for a price probably.
1997 BMW 318is (engine: 1.9L 1895CC L4 FI VIN: M44 )
1997 BMW 840Ci (engine: 4.4L 4398CC V8 FI VIN: M62 )
1997 BMW 850Ci (engine: 5.4L 5379CC V12 FI VIN: M73 )
1996 BMW 318is (engine: 1.9L 1895CC L4 FI VIN: M44 )
1996 BMW 840Ci (engine: 4.4L 4398CC V8 FI VIN: M62 )
1996 BMW 850Ci (engine: 5.4L 5379CC V12 FI VIN: M73 )
1995 BMW 318is (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1995 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50TU )
1995 BMW 325is (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50TU )
1995 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1995 BMW 525iT (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1995 BMW 530i (engine: 3.0L 2997CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1995 BMW 530iT (engine: 3.0L 2997CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1995 BMW 540i (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1995 BMW 840Ci (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1995 BMW 850Ci (engine: 5.4L 5379CC V12 FI VIN: M73 )
1995 BMW 850CSi (engine: 5.6L 5576CC V12 FI VIN: S70 )
1994 BMW 318is (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1994 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50TU )
1994 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1994 BMW 525it (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1994 BMW 530i (engine: 3.0L 2997CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 530iT (engine: 3.0L 2997CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 540i (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 740i (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 740iL (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1994 BMW 840Ci (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1994 BMW 850Ci (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1994 BMW 850CSi (engine: 5.6L 5576CC V12 FI VIN: S70 )
1993 BMW 318is (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1993 BMW 325I (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1993 BMW 325I (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50TU )
1993 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1993 BMW 525iT (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1993 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1993 BMW 740i (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1993 BMW 740iL (engine: 4.0L 3982CC V8 FI VIN: M60 )
1993 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1993 BMW 850Ci (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1993 BMW M5 (engine: 3.6L 3553CC L6 FI VIN: S38 )
1992 BMW 318is (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1992 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1992 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1992 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1992 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1992 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1992 BMW 735iL (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1992 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1992 BMW 850i (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1992 BMW M5 (engine: 3.6L 3553CC L6 FI VIN: S38 )
1991 BMW 318i (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1991 BMW 318ic (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1991 BMW 318is (engine: 1.8L 1796CC L4 FI VIN: M42 )
1991 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1991 BMW 325is (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1991 BMW 325iX (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1991 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M50 )
1991 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1991 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1991 BMW 735iL (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1991 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1991 BMW 850i (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1991 BMW M3 (engine: 2.3L 2302CC L4 FI VIN: S14 )
1991 BMW M5 (engine: 3.6L 3553CC L6 FI VIN: S38 )
1990 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1990 BMW 325is (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1990 BMW 325iX (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1990 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1990 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1990 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1990 BMW 735iL (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1990 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1990 BMW M3 (engine: 2.3L 2302CC L4 FI VIN: S14 )
1989 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1989 BMW 325iS (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1989 BMW 325iX (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1989 BMW 525i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1989 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1989 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1989 BMW 735iL (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1989 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1989 BMW M3 (engine: 2.3L 2302CC L4 FI VIN: S14 )
1988 BMW 325 (engine: 2.7L 2693CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1988 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1988 BMW 325iS (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1988 BMW 325iX (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1988 BMW 535i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1988 BMW 535iS (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1988 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1988 BMW 735iL (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30 )
1988 BMW 750iL (engine: 5.0L 4988CC V12 FI VIN: M70 )
1988 BMW M3 (engine: 2.3L 2302CC L4 FI VIN: S14 )
1988 BMW M5 (engine: 3.5L 3453CC L6 FI VIN: S38 - DOHC )
1987 BMW 325i (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1987 BMW 325iS (engine: 2.5L 2494CC L6 FI VIN: M20 )
1987 BMW 735i (engine: 3.5L 3430CC L6 FI VIN: M30
A good source for BMW parts (or at least part numbers) is www.realoem.com. Once you have the PN you can order from ECS tuning or a number of other places (usually much less $$$ than a dealer).
To find parts for a 318is, search on a 3' E36 Coupe.
To find parts for a 318is, search on a 3' E36 Coupe.
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Yeah, nick9004, there are some changes to how the radiator will be supported from excessive movement.
In the first pictures of prep and readiness, you noticed the two rectangular shapes above the radiator. These shapes are actually boxing two hunks of 3 piece rubber. I have some pics somewhere which will explain much better than words - I'll locate them and upload ASAP.
The forming material I used (which worked very well) to fill void areas behind the shroud and shape the surface is artificial flower grass - Green foam. It was cheap, firm, and you can sand it with your finger, literally. Quite messy and clings to everything though.
I didn't think to mention previously that the pigtails themselves aren't designed specifically to this one temp switch - It's a standard, as is the switch design itself. They can be found under many hoods. I believe I found some (crushed) under a Mercedes hood also. Most likely, its safe to say "anything foreign" would probably have them connecting that particular vehicle's temp switch.
The switch is the variable you want to maintain - Pulling one that looks the same from a Mercedes may run you hotter or cooler, depending on that model's cooling system. The BMW hits the spot as far as my case is concerned.
Thanks for the list, giving added depth for anyone hunting.
Thanks for the additional info as well, BGKYK5
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
In the first pictures of prep and readiness, you noticed the two rectangular shapes above the radiator. These shapes are actually boxing two hunks of 3 piece rubber. I have some pics somewhere which will explain much better than words - I'll locate them and upload ASAP.
The forming material I used (which worked very well) to fill void areas behind the shroud and shape the surface is artificial flower grass - Green foam. It was cheap, firm, and you can sand it with your finger, literally. Quite messy and clings to everything though.
I didn't think to mention previously that the pigtails themselves aren't designed specifically to this one temp switch - It's a standard, as is the switch design itself. They can be found under many hoods. I believe I found some (crushed) under a Mercedes hood also. Most likely, its safe to say "anything foreign" would probably have them connecting that particular vehicle's temp switch.
The switch is the variable you want to maintain - Pulling one that looks the same from a Mercedes may run you hotter or cooler, depending on that model's cooling system. The BMW hits the spot as far as my case is concerned.
Thanks for the list, giving added depth for anyone hunting.
Thanks for the additional info as well, BGKYK5
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
nick9004
Registered Member
Thats a great idea using the green foam... So as your shroud sits in the last 2 pictures with the cat hair resin, will the foam and tape be a permanent part of the shroud?
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
So now I have some pics to ease my written explanation.
Green foam was used between the red lines - and sat on top of the windstar fan (If you recall, there was a gap at the top and bottom of the radiator due to the fan assembly not being an exact fit). The green foam was used to add structure until the resin was laid and dry, aiding in support and shaping of the shroud. It is not a permanent part of the shroud in any way being that it was below the tape and the resin was layed on top of the tape.
The tape is another story. Being my first time laying resin, I was anxious to get it done. I did not apply enough wax / release agent and the resin saturated the tape. I managed to remove a good bit of it - But what you see in the current pics is most likely staying (after some finishing touches to it). I'll definitely change things (prep) the next time I lay resin.
The cat hair is being used more as a filler than a "builder". I didnt like the amount of flex between the front lip and the front of the radiator isolators. So, by filling the void between the two - There is no flex remaining. I decided to use it to finish shaping the top to a more appealing shape as well.
Not sure what else to say on this one - Here's a shot of the radiator isolation rubber which is boxed by the shroud...
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Green foam was used between the red lines - and sat on top of the windstar fan (If you recall, there was a gap at the top and bottom of the radiator due to the fan assembly not being an exact fit). The green foam was used to add structure until the resin was laid and dry, aiding in support and shaping of the shroud. It is not a permanent part of the shroud in any way being that it was below the tape and the resin was layed on top of the tape.
The tape is another story. Being my first time laying resin, I was anxious to get it done. I did not apply enough wax / release agent and the resin saturated the tape. I managed to remove a good bit of it - But what you see in the current pics is most likely staying (after some finishing touches to it). I'll definitely change things (prep) the next time I lay resin.
The cat hair is being used more as a filler than a "builder". I didnt like the amount of flex between the front lip and the front of the radiator isolators. So, by filling the void between the two - There is no flex remaining. I decided to use it to finish shaping the top to a more appealing shape as well.
Not sure what else to say on this one - Here's a shot of the radiator isolation rubber which is boxed by the shroud...
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
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