CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Dual Circuit Windstar Fan - Final Shroud Update 05/11/11
- Thread starter Lunatic
- Start date
jtrapani
1/2 ton status
thanks man....
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Blue85, I assumed that the response was for all - Again, thanks for putting it out there 
Ive read mentions of "AC compressors" here and there - When concerning an electrical fan. What am I not catching here ? Do "you" want the fan(s) to be bypassed (ON) when the AC is turned on ?
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Ive read mentions of "AC compressors" here and there - When concerning an electrical fan. What am I not catching here ? Do "you" want the fan(s) to be bypassed (ON) when the AC is turned on ?
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Yes, you'll want at least one fan on when the AC is running to cool the condenser.
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the confirm, BGKYK5 - I only assumed as much, but would rather read a reason than think I know the reason. Bad things can happen from assumptions.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
SUPER'BURB
1/2 ton status
Subscribed for the final photos and the insane propeller-head technical discourse!
What he said
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
News....
Somewhere towards the end of June IIRC.....
High gloss black powder coat.... $35.00 total.
They still look exactly the same today as when I put them in (luster and such). I'm happy with the choice and outcome in choosing to powder coat them over anodizing or painting. This process leaves a very hard surface which is very durable and will last.
I have two gigantic epoxy/fiberglass resin kits standing by now, waiting for a burst of ambition or a break in the weather (105* days suck) so I can build a shroud plate over the exposed radiator top channel and side skirts as well.
Have no idea when that will happen.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Somewhere towards the end of June IIRC.....
High gloss black powder coat.... $35.00 total.
They still look exactly the same today as when I put them in (luster and such). I'm happy with the choice and outcome in choosing to powder coat them over anodizing or painting. This process leaves a very hard surface which is very durable and will last.
I have two gigantic epoxy/fiberglass resin kits standing by now, waiting for a burst of ambition or a break in the weather (105* days suck) so I can build a shroud plate over the exposed radiator top channel and side skirts as well.
Have no idea when that will happen.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Recon!
Maniac
Can't wait to see it in person
Cornfield creations
1/2 ton status
what is the volume these pull, large fan vs. small fan? I heard about 5500 cfm
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
I have no technical specs as far as cfm.......
But, I can testify that my second fan hasn't been used or needed to this moment. Every once in a while, I actually switch the primary off for a minute to make sure it still functions.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
But, I can testify that my second fan hasn't been used or needed to this moment. Every once in a while, I actually switch the primary off for a minute to make sure it still functions.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
So, after a long time away from the project, and almost finally finishing it, I received a number of requests for dimensions for the brackets. I found the time to sit and copy them (about 14 hours of time in the end) and I am now placing them here for everyone to view and use.
There are a few notes and tips that I will include with them.
Here is the passenger side template
To anyone that actually tries to duplicate this part of the project - I wish you luck. As stated above, take your time - And you'll be smiling at the finished product.
Here are the high resolution pics, uploaded to Badongo. I frown to this site - Its slow, pop-up happy, and a general PITA - But it's the only RAR accepting site I know of right now - Sorry.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
There are a few notes and tips that I will include with them.
- General instruction - Draw the box for the template first, then the longer lines next. Fill in the details last. Seemed to be the easiest way for me.
- These templates are not finished product ready. The final touches are at the builders discretion, to include shaping and preferred modifications in measurements.
- It is suggested that these templates be drawn on a piece of cardboard (do not use corrugated) and fitted for final design and measurements, and/or modifications to measurements.
- IMPORTANT - The 3 holes used on the template for mounting (biggest holes) are not the proper size for the finished bracket. They should only be 5/16". The holes on the template are actually the size of the grommets used for mounting the bracket. In fitting, I used the grommets, sending them through the template, to hold it in place while I looked, measured, tweaked, changed, and drafted the bracket design. See picture below to clarify.
- As seen in the pics above, the lower mounting hole will need to be modified in order to clear the mounting bolt head. The "hole" will actually be a "slot" once this mod has been completed.
- The driver bracket will require an additional piece of aluminum, 1/4" thick. See post 24 and 25 for details.
- The slots in each bracket were made using a 3/8" drill bit (IIRC), and then removing the stock in between the drilled holes. These slots are actually necessary in the design. Using a homemade bender like the one I made (see post 27), you will bend the bender before the aluminum plate - It is that strong. These slots reduce the surface area of the bend, allowing you to bend the aluminum plate.
- The length and size of the slots are your choice. Remember though that the larger the slot, the less actual bracket. I kept my bracket "legs" somewhere around 2" wide.
- The time and precision you spend in making the slot will show once the bracket is bent. Take your time, use a file. You'll be glad you did - Or you'll be pissed that you didnt.
Here is the passenger side template
- IMPORTANT - You will need to drill two holes in this bracket that are not marked on the template. Your transmission cooler lines will be going through this bracket. Do as I did - Measure 100 times before drilling. I drilled the holes after the bracket was finished. See pic below.
- The mounting holes are not marked on this template. Drill the finished bracket first, then transfer to the radiator support beam.
To anyone that actually tries to duplicate this part of the project - I wish you luck. As stated above, take your time - And you'll be smiling at the finished product.
Here are the high resolution pics, uploaded to Badongo. I frown to this site - Its slow, pop-up happy, and a general PITA - But it's the only RAR accepting site I know of right now - Sorry.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Last edited:
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
So once again - It has been a long break in between the last update and now. A lot has happened since then - And its time to update those of you wondering what ever happened to this lil project.
I have had the top fan shroud formed for a few (3+) months now - It needs trimming and two or three more layers to be finished. I have also developed what I believe will be the last diagram to be doodled.
So, here's an update.
Not much to see here - But, as my past custom parts have shown - It will look factory once finished. Its rough at the moment, but formed none the less.
Time is my delay at this point - I dont have much of it, but I'm itching to get back to it soon.
What looks like (to best describe it) concrete is actually cat hair resin which I used to further lock the shroud in place, and to also shape the top. It will be layered over once I have it shaped as I want it - Its rough but you get the idea.
And here is the last (
) diagram.
Nothing has actually changed with the exsisting circuits. It has, however, become quite busy. I have added a few tweaks to it (As you might notice).
1. The water crossing bypass switch is now a maintained SPDT rocker switch. When you turn the switch "OFF", it will instead turn the primary circuit off, and a second circuit "ON" - There is no neutral position.
When the fan circuits are bypassed (OFF), an alarm, buzzer, chime, LED (Its up to you, really) will be energized, alerting you to the fact that the fans are bypassed. When you turn the fans back on, everything goes back to normal.
This addition is in response to anyone with concerns of forgetting they have bypassed the fans.
2. There is now an actual fan over-ride, to engage one or both fans when desired. A maintained DPDT rocker switch is used for this purpose.
To engage the primary, throw the switch one direction (UP). To engage both the primary and secondary, throw the switch the other direction (DOWN). To let the dual temp switch do its' job, keep the switch in the neutral position (CENTER).
3. And the final addition is for the AC over-ride. I was going to grab the AC circuit from behind the dash somewhere off the control assembly - But then realized the simplest way to achieve a circuit over-ride was to tap the end of the AC circuit.
If the compressor kicks on for any reason, the primary fan will turn on, period.
For now - That's where it's at. Hopefully I'll have some time to get back to it and finish once and for all.
Questions...Comments.....
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
I have had the top fan shroud formed for a few (3+) months now - It needs trimming and two or three more layers to be finished. I have also developed what I believe will be the last diagram to be doodled.
So, here's an update.
Not much to see here - But, as my past custom parts have shown - It will look factory once finished. Its rough at the moment, but formed none the less.
Time is my delay at this point - I dont have much of it, but I'm itching to get back to it soon.
What looks like (to best describe it) concrete is actually cat hair resin which I used to further lock the shroud in place, and to also shape the top. It will be layered over once I have it shaped as I want it - Its rough but you get the idea.
And here is the last (
) diagram. Nothing has actually changed with the exsisting circuits. It has, however, become quite busy. I have added a few tweaks to it (As you might notice).
1. The water crossing bypass switch is now a maintained SPDT rocker switch. When you turn the switch "OFF", it will instead turn the primary circuit off, and a second circuit "ON" - There is no neutral position.
When the fan circuits are bypassed (OFF), an alarm, buzzer, chime, LED (Its up to you, really) will be energized, alerting you to the fact that the fans are bypassed. When you turn the fans back on, everything goes back to normal.
This addition is in response to anyone with concerns of forgetting they have bypassed the fans.
2. There is now an actual fan over-ride, to engage one or both fans when desired. A maintained DPDT rocker switch is used for this purpose.
To engage the primary, throw the switch one direction (UP). To engage both the primary and secondary, throw the switch the other direction (DOWN). To let the dual temp switch do its' job, keep the switch in the neutral position (CENTER).
3. And the final addition is for the AC over-ride. I was going to grab the AC circuit from behind the dash somewhere off the control assembly - But then realized the simplest way to achieve a circuit over-ride was to tap the end of the AC circuit.
If the compressor kicks on for any reason, the primary fan will turn on, period.
For now - That's where it's at. Hopefully I'll have some time to get back to it and finish once and for all.
Questions...Comments.....
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Last edited:
I like it and plan to borrow heavily from your hard work when the time comes!
gotta love playing with fiberglass.. it'd be kinda fun if it wasn't so messy!
really need to redo some of my diagrams and make em as reader friendly as yours...
it'd be kinda fun if it wasn't so messy! really need to redo some of my diagrams and make em as reader friendly as yours...
DrkZide
Loading...
Have those Windstar Fans been working well? No overheating? I'd like to ditch my clutch fan so my truck will actually warm up in the winter (10min of driving and it'll barely hit 150°). Aluminum shroud though.
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
I would have to say this project is the best upgrade to date for my truck. And as for actual purpose - It beats the manual clutch system 10-fold.
I think you'll be very pleased with the swap as well.
_____________________
Working on something right now - Just for the folks which might want to switch over. A simple list that I'm trying to make all inclusive of the major parts needed to make it happen.
Windstar Fan Swap List
If anyone needs something in particular that I used added to this list - I've already found it. Just ask and I'll add it.
Questions, comments.........
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
- It has never over heated in 115* last summer.
- I have not used the secondary fan to this day (other than messing around with it).
I think you'll be very pleased with the swap as well.
_____________________
Working on something right now - Just for the folks which might want to switch over. A simple list that I'm trying to make all inclusive of the major parts needed to make it happen.
Windstar Fan Swap List
- 95-98 Ford Windstar Fan (and wiring connections)
- Aluminum Sheet
- 1/4-20 Spring Nut
- 1/4-20 Spring Nut Screw
- Dual Circuit Temperature Switch TFS579 (and wiring connections)
- Sheet Metal Bender (Bottom of post has material list)
- Alpena HYPER LED 4pk - Advance Auto
- LED Holder Clips
- Fuse Block
- 30A Fuses
- DPDT Maintained ON-OFF-ON Rocker Switch
- SPDT Maintained ON-ON Rocker Switch
- 30A Relay
- Assorted Wire - "Request Quote" for choice of wire, size, length
If anyone needs something in particular that I used added to this list - I've already found it. Just ask and I'll add it.
Questions, comments.........
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
54inches
1/2 ton status
Good Stuff, Thank you!
Any more progress on the upper shroud?
Any more progress on the upper shroud?
trustyrusty
Registered Member
Just a quick question...
Why the need for a "water crossing" cut off switch?
Aren't the fans D/C? they should be fine to run submerged-----Electrically speaking. (as long as they have drains and you are not playing in salt water.)
Is it due to the water they will throw and possibility of breaking blades?
OTT, You have done a great job on the install and documentation for the rest of us thinking of doing the mod.
Why the need for a "water crossing" cut off switch?
Aren't the fans D/C? they should be fine to run submerged-----Electrically speaking. (as long as they have drains and you are not playing in salt water.)
Is it due to the water they will throw and possibility of breaking blades?
OTT, You have done a great job on the install and documentation for the rest of us thinking of doing the mod.
I think it would be the last part... breaking or bending blades.
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Yeah - Snapping blades is the concern with the water crossing. I've been there-done-that. Dont need another trophy..
Any further progress of the upper fan shroud will be a minimum of a week away.
With the holiday season and all - My side of the garage is donated to temporary storage of (now) empty Christmas decor' totes and such - Barely leaving a walkway, and zero access to my bench of choice. My other bench is crowded as well.
Once I re-claim my work area, I'll finish the upper fan shroud and post pics.
I'm doing a few other smaller things to hold my attention until then - But still growing more anxious the longer the delay.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Any further progress of the upper fan shroud will be a minimum of a week away.
With the holiday season and all - My side of the garage is donated to temporary storage of (now) empty Christmas decor' totes and such - Barely leaving a walkway, and zero access to my bench of choice. My other bench is crowded as well.
Once I re-claim my work area, I'll finish the upper fan shroud and post pics.
I'm doing a few other smaller things to hold my attention until then - But still growing more anxious the longer the delay.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
