beags86
Eastbound and Down
What is the shut off valve for?
CK5
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Edelbrock Proflo 4
- Thread starter 6872xtc
- Start date
Coolant to the heater core. Makes the A/C work better, or just keeps more heat out of the cab when it's turned off. Makes a HUGE difference on a heat only truck. In my experience.
T
tenderfoot
Guest
Very clever
You can put some plastic wire shield on the braided lines to protect anything it touches.
As for blocking the heater core, can it cause any problems mentioned here?
https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/el...ses-question-bypass-capping-ports-198805.html
As for blocking the heater core, can it cause any problems mentioned here?
https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/el...ses-question-bypass-capping-ports-198805.html
Don't know if it's true on this system, but that can catch you on the Sniper because the TPS zeros out every time you shut the key off.So as I walked past my bench tonight, I realized that I never installed the throttle return spring which was included in the kit. I haven't seen any issues with this, even watching the TPS on the screen.
I am still liking the fact that I can use my phone or the tablet that I bought to look at things. But usually I don't have a screen going while driving. But I did find out that if I put my phone against the windshield, on the dash, I can flip it face down by stepping on the gas pedal!
The 73 has big ole ugly valves in each of the heater lines. I figured it's because those older systems never shut the fan off. I was wondering how much difference it actually makes.
i just used a ball valve for pex water lines for around 12 bucks at the hardware store for my water valve shut off .
Well the '67-'72 trucks had a vacuum operated shut off valve from the factory on the A/C trucks. Dad's old '72 never had a problem, even with the 400 SB that got installed in the 80's. I have done it on a few trucks and not had problems. My '95 has a problem with the thermostat swinging back and forth during warm up and it has no shut-off valve. I didn't drill that thermostat since it still has the factory heater hose system from the back of the intake. And supposedly the lower hole on the water pump mounting is the bypass to help move coolant on small blocks. This won't help with steam up high obviously.
Older thermostats worked better than the cheap ones we get now, and so I drill 2 small holes in the outer flange of the thermostat to let it work better.
I plan on either split loom or rubber hose where the lines touch stuff, depending on temperature in the area and how sharp an edge is.
@mrk5 , I knew what you guys have found on the sniper with the lack of a return spring, which is why I have looked at TPS and IAC lots of times. No problems still/yet.
pma4x4
AKA Yankeeroad
Do you think the rails could be swapped so the fuel ports are behind the throttle body? or maybe the ports themselves could be moved to the back of the rails? I am curious since I have a TBI system and my fuel lines are already back there.
i already asked this on on edelbrock chat forum and they said no problem . how even you want to run it is fine as long as it loops from 1 end to the others end and is a series not a parallel setup otherwise fuel wont get there and blead air out .
https://forums.edelbrock.com/forum/...-change-up-in-efi-system-have-a-few-questions
go read around here a bit . tons of great info and most important NICE PEOPLE !
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What I meant was that if your throttle isn't fully closed and you don't notice when you shut off, the next time you restart it that will be the new 0% TPS. If you always check, then it's not a big deal. Just something to be aware of.
Like @sweetk30 said , they will swap. I thought that I posted why I didn't. I was trying to keep from making things more crowded at the back of the engine, between wiring and spark plug wire, it would be a challenge to keep stuff from chafing on each other, and the pinch weld flange on the firewall may be problematic for keeping the hoses off of it. Remember that I had a factory TBI system on this truck.
Now I'm not saying that I check all of the time, just that when I did, there hasn't been a problem. And it hasn't done anything odd upon start up, even the first one. But I don't shut it off with my foot on the gas, and it has a delay on the ECM turning off of 8 seconds. The delay is pointed out by Edelbrock.
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pma4x4
AKA Yankeeroad
Ok thanks, I'll have to keep this in mind.
pma4x4
AKA Yankeeroad
You mentioned this was a 72 with a TBI. When you had the TBI on it did you actually use the factory lines where they come up from behind the motor on the passenger side of the distributor or the stock 72 line on the frame pass side?
It's a '72 block, but it had '90 fuel lines from the tank to the TBI.
pma4x4
AKA Yankeeroad
Could you go into a bit further detail on how you tied into the factory TBI fue lines? were you able to find the correct fitting to tap into the OEM line? by chance remember the type of fitting it was? I know it had to go to the -6an on the rail side.
This pic shows the lines going down in front? did you rebend and/or cut the OEM lines?
This pic shows the lines going down in front? did you rebend and/or cut the OEM lines?
I connected to the factory hard lines behind the shackle. I did bend them forward some and put 45* ends on the hoses. This made them get out and around the shackle then back into the frame.
Earl's makes adapters to connect to the hard lines which convert to 6 AN. @Bent77 told me about them, I will see if I can get a link.
Earl's makes adapters to connect to the hard lines which convert to 6 AN. @Bent77 told me about them, I will see if I can get a link.
pma4x4
AKA Yankeeroad
If you get a chance can you take a pic where you have the factory lines move to and connected into them by the shackle? just curious. Pics help a lot for me.
You need female metric oring to -6an adapter fittings like this: https://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/9894DBJ/10002/-1
I just don't remember if both the return and supply are 16mm or not. I almost think the supply might be larger than the return. I think the return line needs a 14mm adapter.
I just don't remember if both the return and supply are 16mm or not. I almost think the supply might be larger than the return. I think the return line needs a 14mm adapter.
pma4x4
AKA Yankeeroad
Yeah the supply is larger. I just rebuilt my TBI and was just dealing with them on my 91. But that link from Jegs in fact works for the supply line O-ring connector line?
