I knew a guy that had a seized up Mazda rotary, he hooked up the starter 24 volts with 2 battery's...that got it spinning!
Yah, don't do that
A rotary would have way less contact points to rust/seize.
CK5
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Engine seized need opinions on breaking free?
- Thread starter JUNIOR-K5
- Start date
Yah, don't do that
A rotary would have way less contact points to rust/seize.
Ok...just kind of surprised it seized up. Hope it works out for you.
Yah, don't do that
A rotary would have way less contact points to rust/seize.
Yeah not something anyone should try,but it was funny.
And for sure! not many moving parts on a rotary.
Years ago I had a Vw bug that refused to start cold. I'd just leave the back bottom seat out and with jumper cables make it 24 volt start! Worked great all winter... 
Ok...just kind of surprised it seized up. Hope it works out for you.
I'm also surprised it wont turn over cant think of anything else keeping it from spinning plugs are out serpentine belt is off headers are off sprayed the crap out of cylinders and nothing I dont know letting it sit with mmo and atf the torque converter wouldnt be stuck would it rear tires spin fine and shifts good.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
The engine won't move in either direction?
are you you sure it's not a trans issue? at this point I'd unbolt the converter to verify the issue is in the mill...
do you actually have a flywheel turning tool on it?
I'm not so sure about running again if it is this frozen up?
getting em to run again usually isn't the issue if you free em.. having em last longer than a couple hr's is...
rust locking rings up isn't conducive to good cylinder life..
I see it annually with boats.. often.... being raw water cooled in their exhaust, when the exhaust fails it's stooopidly common for the cylinders to fill with saltwater...
getting it to spin and light off is usually easy enough.. running those rings up and down over a corroded cylinder wall section usually leads to a smoke show in short order tho...
that said.. I have no clue what's goin on here... a motor sitting 2 yr's has NO biz being locked up like a chastity belt unless it had water down the carb, etc..
rust locking rings up isn't conducive to good cylinder life..
I see it annually with boats.. often.... being raw water cooled in their exhaust, when the exhaust fails it's stooopidly common for the cylinders to fill with saltwater...
getting it to spin and light off is usually easy enough.. running those rings up and down over a corroded cylinder wall section usually leads to a smoke show in short order tho...
that said.. I have no clue what's goin on here... a motor sitting 2 yr's has NO biz being locked up like a chastity belt unless it had water down the carb, etc..
That's what I meant....getting em to run again usually isn't the issue if you free em.. having em last longer than a couple hr's is...
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Yeah, it's pretty well getting to a point, in my opinion, that with it being this difficult to get freed up, it's probably time to just pull it out and get it torn apart for a freshen up rebuild.
I've refired engines that were sitting. not running for more than 3 years, on their own starter after some cleaning and oil pump priming. This thing sounds like there was some serious moisture or flat out decent amount of water getting into the engine.
I've refired engines that were sitting. not running for more than 3 years, on their own starter after some cleaning and oil pump priming. This thing sounds like there was some serious moisture or flat out decent amount of water getting into the engine.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
Really sounds like its time to pull the heads and see what's going on in there. From what you have done if it was going to move it should have by now.
Yeah im just gonna pull heads off no water ever got in hood was always closed not im stating to think if trans is stuck could that be possible I can shift it and lifted rear wheel and they spin freely could torque converter seize im gonna buy the tool today and try to spin flywheel screwdrivers aint working
I'd not give up --it'll come free sooner or later,and will probably run again--like Ryoken said though,it may not last long after its started,but we had more than one engine that smoked like hell after finally getting it started,and after a good hour of running and a fresh oil change afterwards,it barely smoked at all,and ran darn good considering---..
We did learn NOT to try staring an engine with the muck in the crankcase that WAS once good oil--after sitting for years,it accumulates water,the sludge that comes off the crankcase thickens it,and it led to the destruction of the engine after it finally started and ran a few minutes..we learned to at least use "fresh" drain oil ,if not new oil,otherwise what was possibly still a good engine could get ruined in a short run time..
If we had an engine the oil did not want to drain from when we pulled the drain plug,or it came out lumpy and tarry,we'd usually decide to yank the oil pan off it and clean it and the oil pump screen before trying to fire it up..the worst part about the engines we were trying to "save" may have been junk to start with,we had no clue if half the vehicles in the yard that were there when the place was bought by our boss was any good to begin with..they might have had spun bearings already!--but we also had a few engines we knew DID run good ,before they sat a few years--some of them amazed us after sitting exposed to rain outside,that they still ran good..others seized up tight that were stored IN the metal building too ,I guess the condensation can be just as bad in an unheated metal building as it is outside,maybe worse..
We did learn NOT to try staring an engine with the muck in the crankcase that WAS once good oil--after sitting for years,it accumulates water,the sludge that comes off the crankcase thickens it,and it led to the destruction of the engine after it finally started and ran a few minutes..we learned to at least use "fresh" drain oil ,if not new oil,otherwise what was possibly still a good engine could get ruined in a short run time..
If we had an engine the oil did not want to drain from when we pulled the drain plug,or it came out lumpy and tarry,we'd usually decide to yank the oil pan off it and clean it and the oil pump screen before trying to fire it up..the worst part about the engines we were trying to "save" may have been junk to start with,we had no clue if half the vehicles in the yard that were there when the place was bought by our boss was any good to begin with..they might have had spun bearings already!--but we also had a few engines we knew DID run good ,before they sat a few years--some of them amazed us after sitting exposed to rain outside,that they still ran good..others seized up tight that were stored IN the metal building too ,I guess the condensation can be just as bad in an unheated metal building as it is outside,maybe worse..
I had drained all oil when stopped engine and trans I had left pan off trans but both were empty I put new oil on both but both sat oil free for about two years but they never got water in neither just from condensation and moisture.
chevy4x4power
Registered Member
Best of luck man! My 79 jimmy i just bought has been sitting for 3-4 years. Ran when it was parked. Hopefully it will start up with minimal trouble! Keep us posted. My next door neighbor recommended the marvel mystery oil method for me as well as some starter fluid in the intake
Marvel Mystery Oil is OK--I'd skip the starting fluid though...stuff can kill an engine as fast as it'll start one sometimes...the least it can do is wash the oil off the cylinders --worst is make a rod or piston break..you shouldn't need any if it has good spark and you make sure the carb is full of gas before cranking it over..
I would disable the spark after getting the engine free,and after ensuring no valves are stuck by turning it by hand with a tool and feeling for any binding or resistance,then I would spin it with the starter a good 10 or more seconds to help get the engine spinning freely before allowing it to fire up..
We used to fill the carb up with gas thru the little brass air vent tube in the venturi,before trying to start an engine when the carb was bone dry...(I made a funnel for this purpose that worked great out of an old vacuum advance,I ground away the outer shell at the crimped seam on a bench grinder until the halves came apart--the side with the nipple for the vacuum hose was a perfect fit for the vent tube, and the cone shape of the diaphram housing was a nice funnel shape)..
If you know an engine wont be fired up for longer than a month or so,its not a bad idea to pull the plugs and squirt in some motor oil--we used to fill engines we wanted to be sure would be "perfect" after sitting however long till they sold right to the top of the valve covers with drain oil till no more would go in--it was messy,and made a bit of work later on to get it running (you had to drain the oil out and pull the spark plugs,crank it over to empty out the oil that filled the cylinders,so it wouldn't hydrolock when you went to turn it over.)...but it'll never seize up that way..
I have stored spare lawnmower engines in 5 gallon buckets full of old diesel or drain oil to avoid them seizing in storage for a long term..
I would disable the spark after getting the engine free,and after ensuring no valves are stuck by turning it by hand with a tool and feeling for any binding or resistance,then I would spin it with the starter a good 10 or more seconds to help get the engine spinning freely before allowing it to fire up..
We used to fill the carb up with gas thru the little brass air vent tube in the venturi,before trying to start an engine when the carb was bone dry...(I made a funnel for this purpose that worked great out of an old vacuum advance,I ground away the outer shell at the crimped seam on a bench grinder until the halves came apart--the side with the nipple for the vacuum hose was a perfect fit for the vent tube, and the cone shape of the diaphram housing was a nice funnel shape)..
If you know an engine wont be fired up for longer than a month or so,its not a bad idea to pull the plugs and squirt in some motor oil--we used to fill engines we wanted to be sure would be "perfect" after sitting however long till they sold right to the top of the valve covers with drain oil till no more would go in--it was messy,and made a bit of work later on to get it running (you had to drain the oil out and pull the spark plugs,crank it over to empty out the oil that filled the cylinders,so it wouldn't hydrolock when you went to turn it over.)...but it'll never seize up that way..
I have stored spare lawnmower engines in 5 gallon buckets full of old diesel or drain oil to avoid them seizing in storage for a long term..
