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fiberglass k5 made by who?

A little trick I picked up with awlgrip is to mix the last cup 50/50 base & clear... This way if the paint gets scratched it will not look white like only clear coat will, and if your using awlgrip you can do your touch up in awlcraft 2000 a softer awlgrip line in all the same colors that is buffable... awlgrip lays like hok kandy and is very thin with its 1to1 mix and 25% reduction on top of that you only end up with 32% base at best in the gun! but it makes the color very rich and the clear added to the last shot makes the best painters in my hood ask if I sprayed base clear.....

one or 2 coats

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9QJ3QcLeoiBtp7GtSgjHZg?feat=directlink

5 or 6 more coats

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oDuj1NLm3orROwrQmhCfLQ?feat=directlink

gitting there

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wgWZsIH-kmBP7SxTVnSwjQ?feat=directlink
 
I ordered a full set of speedglass for the yellow 1977 k5 blazer.... The speedglass was made for the us border patrol k5's there windows were gitting knocked out at night so we all split the bill on them "my tax return".. The windows are 1/4 and wipper safe best part is there up to 50% to 75% lighter then the factory glass windows so will save me lots of lbs off the top half of the truck! Plus lexan is bullet proof so as long as I dont get shot thro the fiberglass door :haha:I'm safe in da hood... There is a lot of glass in a blazer and hopfully this will make the removal of the fiberglass bed topper an ez two man job & The rear window will be a little more frindly to the fiberglass t-gate then the heavy rear glass and trust me it is a heavy piece factory glass.... I bought over sized door speedglass so may go with a one piece door window but who knows I do kinda like the factory vents so may just replace the factory door window lay out... I plan to make stainless frames for the doors and t-gate speedglass to suport them and still be able roll them up and down....
 
some more stuff bolted on...

here's the truck with a white top will most likely use the black hard top on the yellow 1977 k5.. got to love awlgrip :waytogo:


https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YELhHq4b0max7cZ262GuAA?feat=directlink

I sprayed raptor color matched bed liner from the top of the fire wall to the end of the inside of the T-gate,, dig the new fiberglass T-gate cover I made...

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/N3nJIO1ExOlFrIIEpLo91A?feat=directlink

final fitment of the fiberglass dash board and dash board pad pulled from my own molds, still need to paint the fiberglass dash pad and door covers, awlgrip super jet black.... you can also see the finished fiberglass trans cover on the cab floor.. I also covered it with bed liner and made the mold with no holes so I can cut them where I want....

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/R7vNM18S0NSWu4iZOBZqYw?feat=directlink
 
This has turned into one of my favorites on this whole site. Awesome work!
 
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moving on to the 1979 day driver

I can not do mutch more on the yellow truck till the lexan speedglass gets droped off for the 1977 blazer.


SO
I started to pre fit the trim on the 1979 k5 blazer.. I hope to have her in red awlgrip by next friday or maybe red with white sides and top... I have all ready reproduced all the same steel parts in fiberglass I made for the 1977 yellow k5 for the 1979, soon to be red k5 :D exept for the doors and T-gate still thinking about that,,, do i want a t-gate 3 guys can sit on?.... I am also thinking about if I want to cut the roof and make the 1979 a convertible or if I'd rather cut the floor to give her the factory 1979 and newer SUV style seating and interior trim hate to give up the full bed :dunno:..... I do know I will be keeping the 1979 on 35 and keep the 4 inch lift as I plan to go to 37" or 40" on the yellow truck. I also plan to pull the tub and build a box steel sub frame for the 1979 that bolts thro the frame at the 1979 factory body mount points .. That way I can bolt the glass k5 tub then my roll cage and seats to the solid box steel frame with out giving up the isolation of the body mounts :pimp:. well I have to pull the triger on any changes to the body be for pulling the tub and building a sub frame so need to make up my mind tomarrow....



https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PT6fwh9lAFAQJceofBZCVg?feat=directlink

I all ready mounted the head light buckets, front and fender signal lights, but had to pull them to mount the head light doors, grill and trim....

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/klSMyLwn3udfAWI3evjExw?feat=directlink
 
more parts fittment on the yellow 1977

Here are the fiberglass door panels and dash pad, in brown awlfair its an epoxy based sprayable bondo.... This is just a fitment b4 I take it back apart and paint the black parts... Hopefully the speedglass gets dropped off tomarrow so I can pull the nasty over sprayed door windows and vents...

I also broke down the steel doors that I pulled off the red 79 parts truck and gave them there first mold release waxing....

I can cut the roof off the 1979 but will have to build the top of the window jam up to suport the door glass correctly with foam and fiberglass...

This is how I'd do it on a fiber glass k5... I'd cut the top and inner fiberglass head liner staggered so the head liner was cut one inch further back then the roof.... This way I can make the seal jam on the roof with the fiber glass head liner. I'd leave the rear door pillers alone to keep the top in the correct place.. Then I'd cover the airea from my cut in the roof to the front window with mold release wax and fiberglass the roof top all the way across to make the factory style top over hang.. after the over hang was cured I'd bolt the factory fiberglass top on and cut the rear door pillers where they connect to the bed. Then just pull the top, all that be left to do to the top is to build up the upper door jam to suport the closed door glass,,, on the tub I'd have to fill the holes in the bed , and make a lip on the fiberglass head liner to hold a seal,, and well cut the doors and fill them or buy the factory rubber inserts...


back to the 1977
body work on the panels is not finished at this point its just the first rough cut... a lot of times stuff cracks splits when being drilled for screws or needs trimming.... now that the parts are fitted I can start blocking them out, fixing the edges and reinforce the mounting points..... the white arias are where the billet go's and arm rest,,

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BlSTIEJd_ZAudToaqPtNTA?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/O3s4RLyOH8K0yaBfzAO9AQ?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2IEPt6whay1lnMtyLdUMMg?feat=directlink
 
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You need to figure out how to post pics. There's a little button you can use to embed the pic so we don't have to click on each picture. Makes it a lot easier for us :pimp:

1) Right click on the picture and copy the URL
2) Click on the yellow mountain icon button
3) Paste in URL

Like this:

-23.jpg
 
garydan said:
You need to figure out how to post pics. There's a little button you can use to embed the pic so we don't have to click on each picture.

Like this:
-23.jpg
Click to expand...


I have a tread with embed photots on pirate 4x4 but its not as up to date as this tread,,, It takes a little more time to embed and in between dinner with the gf and building 2 trucks, 2 boats and 4 cars all by my self I dont have the time to embed right now....
At some point I may go back and embed when I have time....
 
I put the doors on installed the door latches and stikers need to trim them and start the body work.... I ran low on gelcoat on the finle out put of the doors so had a lot of shrinkage and it left me with a lot of body work.... the door is not closed or trimed yet in the photo, also note the space between the front clip and the door :eek1: I need to move it back an inch...

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QQRdciSeT_tubs6kbgdr3A?feat=directlink

installing the lexan speedglass windows... front and side windows are not glued and pop rivited in yet,,, and i still have to make suport frames for the rolling side and rear windows.... the door windows will be geting speedglass vents over one piece windows still need to change them out and I still need to spray the black out paint on all the window edges....

protective shipping film is on this window in the first shot

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2QbMhMs2VeVLbQUt1z8WtQ?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KD1ILAwSq27dWbY4Br47bw?feat=directlink
 
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Got the black raptor bed liner for the yellow 1977 k5 :D I plan on pulling the tub back off and spraying the under carage, fierwall, wheel covers on both sides and inside the hood with the spray in black liner... Hope fully the tintable raptor liner I orderd shows tusday so I can spray the same parts I listed for 77 on the 79 plus the bed and cab, only in red.. I'll have the 79 truck lined up and the body worked out by then, but need to start with the bed liner b4 painting the 79...

I also been finishing up little things on the 77 yellow k5.. slapped some new door handels on, modded the window track to pop rivit to the speed glass "I cut off the window chanel and welded a piece of stainless flat bar to the back side of the widow track the drilled it and pop rivited" I worked out the clutch pedal and z bar and linkage "I moved the zbar arm that connects to the pedal linkage over 3 inches so theres no bend at all in the pedal linkage" I took all the play out of the shift linkages for the ranger o/d and move the sifter over an intch to clear the sm465 shifter & worked out the double np205 shifter linkage... I also started on the front and rear bumpers "I used some 3 inch brushed anodized aluminum to match the door steps I capped the ends so I can put schrader valves in them and use them as an air tanks for the air horns, tire fills or what ever" and last I took the front seats a part and pulled the clear plastic seat covers off so the cloth can be dyed black the fabric is killer but its blue :doah:....

I am thinking of installing hatches over the fule tank on both trucks so the tanks can be serviced with out droping the tank... I also may install an electric boat engine hatch lift or "actuator" to lift the front clips on the trucks so they come up level and so I dont need to pin them...

the link is of two front seat bottoms. The one on the top is fresh out of the vinyl cover and hasn't seen light sens the factory. the darker one has a coat or 3 of black fabric dye. The two seats used gallons of dye, valour is not frindly to dye at all. will be trying a reduced speed ball silk screen ink tomarrow....

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8MSNd_igrmsSMaCK9hXnSg?feat=directlink
 
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