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fiberglass k5 made by who?

so after searching a couple hours on how to dye valour and finding nothing... I thought of some thing to try... speedball screen printing ink!! So I reduced the ink with water and salt and gave the seats 3 or 4 coats.... worked good...

first coat on the seat bottoms

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ewG1vsc7jAziHAhWGI57Gw?feat=directlink

one coat of reduced ink side by side with 4 gallons of fabric dye

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/788XMH9W0Ldby3BJEGFKrQ?feat=directlink

second coat

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-qU3vuF8zWZK23GZSuLS9Q?feat=directlink

looking black!!!:D

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ky1Kh0bVcO1dr8mVBVR_aA?feat=directlink
 
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fixing the upper window jam on the 1979 k5

I used a 3 pound density foam to fill the upper door jam... this is the first step in the job and the foam is built out much further then need be,, nex I cut the window jam and drip rail out to match the factory style of the older truck....

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xHqdQgDyMvls4ldIRJ55uw?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9hjcWnGnMBZTnflJcNs1uA?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CYY6B6ytjuMrQeg1bA_SGg?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WumkS4bZmhEI9g0S-Brwyw?feat=directlink
 
wiring harness on the yellow 1977 k5

I am thinking of building a coustom wiring harness for the 1977 k5, sadly the factory harness has been butchered over the years... I all ready had to make both a head light and tail light wiring circuit, to replace the missing tail light harness & work with the 1996 style head lights...

I have a full spool of Anchor marine tinned 4 wire in a little heavier gauge then the factory harness and the other gauges I need for the start circuit... Tinned copper is much less corrosive then the factory use copper wiring you'll find in any cars harness.... if I go with a full marine electric system I will use heat shrink connectors every where and can and will print/lable all the conectons at the panle with shrink tubing... I can ditch the cheap little fuses box with a bluesea or bep marine 12v braker panel with house style brakers maybe with the little led back lights and meaters maybe a battery disconnect.

marine cable butt connected and heat shrunk to the factory tail lights
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XpXbGJNFV7KRXAiqx9ZBkw?feat=directlink

light are working! factory bumper has been pulled for the new bumper..
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hTzroYTVCvftl-iYlhPo_w?feat=directlink

out in the sun! there is over 7 inches of clearance tire to truck in the closest places sitting on 36 inches of rubber 34" of true rubber.. I am thingking this truck needs some 39 or bigger by the way tire size is over stated...

front
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KDSZkO2vT_lXNAwlwxCerg?feat=directlink
back
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GVZLdQqvH669ys6wmNZEBA?feat=directlink
 
test drive video

any ideas?
want to embed a vid of me running over a stack of pallets in the yellow 1977...
 
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did a marine style panel in my glovebox about 4 yrs ago... fun mod...



glove.JPG
 
eh, if ya got the supplies, sometimes it's best to just start from scratch as opposed to throwing good time and effort after a bad harness...

thanks... I have a smoked lexan door for it.. looks pretty trick.. maybe when she gets out of the garage this time, I'll do the circuit lettering on it... :doah:
 
ryoken said:
eh, if ya got the supplies, sometimes it's best to just start from scratch as opposed to throwing good time and effort after a bad harness...

thanks... I have a smoked lexan door for it.. looks pretty trick.. maybe when she gets out of the garage this time, I'll do the circuit lettering on it... :doah:
Click to expand...

On the harness I think your right...

This is the panel I built for my bertram, the panels are both ac/dc for a boat. the panels swing open and all the brakers are connected to buss bars and labled using a heat shrink tube printer,, I did not see any point in putting lables any where I can see the item I am conecting to "like a tag that reads lighting at the light bulb". on older boats/cars you end up scraching your head most at the panel/buss bar... cars/trucks are a little less nutts so the labeling is mostly to make me feal better about having payed for the label printer for one job..

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bXUfbg5_qcPkzNBDUTioXw?feat=directlink

I like the idea of half doors to swap on and off, but a full lexan door sounds even better...
 
I welded the rear bumper and bolted it on,, now I can start on a steel bull bar/scrape plate for the front and a scrape plate for the rear fuel tank.. I did the math on the size of the tanks the bumpers will make a bout 8 gallons about the size of a small nail gun compressor ...

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xGKS7GmYvwKxNcOf819iSw?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SBNg-oRir7b5WI2L_WhZgg?feat=directlink

also got down a little on the 1979 k5 in the back ground

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/X_3DfnYqqfPCzxQkgPmIkQ?feat=directlink
 
I had to pull the clip to move the hinge mounting holes back 1 1/2 inches along with the rad support. I reinforced the shotty glass job holding the hinge when I had the clip off...

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/foy7rufiMfUknZO66LThqQ?feat=directlink

I also carved out the foam/glass build up in the window jam to fit the door glass and started mudding the jams.. note the gap fender to door :D !!!! now I can mount the lower fender dove tailes and move the 79 in to a finishing body work stage...

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9HMDk59aPxuNdRlZhCI8lQ?feat=directlink


Here I'm fitting the window in to the jam, note the old glass from the yellow 77 k5 makes a killer templet... you can see the black spray paint on the glass from marking the window jam for size and depth....

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sPmtlovEtmbdL9kBNmyS6Q?feat=directlink


side thought..
I am still thinking about changing the rear floor to the 79 style for a more day driver suv feel "it will also fit the 79 interior I pulled from the doner better"...
 
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the panels are both ac/dc for a boat.
Click to expand...


for the record, I've been a full service marine mechanic for going on 25 yrs... I work on sportfishes, etc daily...
 
ryoken said:
for the record, I've been a full service marine mechanic for going on 25 yrs... I work on sportfishes, etc daily...
Click to expand...


nice, with a truck like that I didn't think you had an office job, I have only refitted a couple boats there a lot of work...
 
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being Fla, I figured you had some marine experience.. keep up the hard work..
 
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