What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Finally build thread worthy material

82355 said:
He put a Dana 44 with external hubs under the front.

Martin
Click to expand...

Technically, it's a GM Corp 10b front. Close to a D44.

And you should tear down the old front 10b and save the axles, knuckles, and spindles. I don't know the spline count of the front 10b you swapped in, may or may not be the same. If the same, you now have spare axle shafts. If not, sell them to someone who wants spares. They don't take up much room in the garage once out of the axle housing.

And the knuckles and spindles will make good spares because they are the same as what you have now. Just the knuckles and spindles though, the hubs, brake rotors (obviously), and brake caliper brackets are specific only to the 6 lug stuff. I'm saving my old knuckles just so I can clean them up and put new ball joints in them and have them ready to go and swap in when I need ball joints.
 
well, it looks like a local may come by tonight and snatch up the stock 10 bolts. I told him $100 for both, and i will throw in some spares (brake pads, etc)

hopefully he can use them.

Next up (after I refill the T-Case - and check my driveshaft length) is exhaust...

now, before we start a debate...listen to what "I" am needing to accomplish, and let me know what fits the bill.

1. stock y-pipe is in the way of front drive shaft (not connected right now)
2. would like to eliminate the y pipe being in the way for t-case or even transmission work
3. sound - sure, I wouldnt mind this big v8 sounding like a big v8
4. cost - nothing for show...just make it solid and reliable
5. ground clearance
6. MUST be street legal for atleast 3 more years....so if I go duals...its dual cats and mufflers. (i dont mind the cost, if its the right thing)

Thoughts? how easy is it to construct my own setup? Is duals the way to go? Or custom Y pipe that can be easily removed?

thanks
 
Yep, just went and looked at the pictures on page 3, that is a ten bolt with Dana 44 hubs.

Martin
 
dieselndixie said:
well, it looks like a local may come by tonight and snatch up the stock 10 bolts. I told him $100 for both, and i will throw in some spares (brake pads, etc)

hopefully he can use them.

Next up (after I refill the T-Case - and check my driveshaft length) is exhaust...

now, before we start a debate...listen to what "I" am needing to accomplish, and let me know what fits the bill.

1. stock y-pipe is in the way of front drive shaft (not connected right now)
2. would like to eliminate the y pipe being in the way for t-case or even transmission work
3. sound - sure, I wouldnt mind this big v8 sounding like a big v8
4. cost - nothing for show...just make it solid and reliable
5. ground clearance
6. MUST be street legal for atleast 3 more years....so if I go duals...its dual cats and mufflers. (i dont mind the cost, if its the right thing)

Thoughts? how easy is it to construct my own setup? Is duals the way to go? Or custom Y pipe that can be easily removed?

thanks
Click to expand...

Y-pipe into single 3" exhaust for best results. cheaper, less weight, sounds great too.
 
you having a custom shop do the bends? whats a good area to route the y pipe through?

I would like to make it removable or something. I already couldnt install my fush kit because the exhaust piping is in the way.
 
I have my stock y-pipe on there, but it looks nothing like yours. I'm pretty sure mine is not in the way of removing the trans pan where it looks like yours is right under it.

My single 3" was done at a local exhaust shop, basically a cat back... with out a cat. :whistle: (not that it's the right thing to do but that's for another discussion) They custom bent all the pipe and put on a Flowmaster 50 series with the tailpipe exiting out the stock location behind the rear drivers tire. Think it cost $300 out the door. Would have been an additional $80 for a cat, which I did not have at the time.

The 50 series is loud, kinda obnoxious for me. I'll live with it for now but will replace with something a bit softer next time.
 
I picked up flowtech headers for a good price off Jegs, ran them down into 2, 2 piece sets of 2.5" 45 degree pipes that I used to route the pipes where I needed them for ground clearence and to be good and tucked in with everything else. I got 2 high flow cats off a company on Ebay and an X pipe from Heartthrob. From there, run whatever mufflers and your good to go. I don't even think I spent 500 on everything.

or you could have an exhaust shop make some manifold extensions to run further back, cut the flanges off the y pipe to push it back to where you need it.
 
I assume the 40 series is louder because it is smaller? I imagine yours is louder because you have no cat. Mine will have Cat + Muffler.

I am just wondering, if I can have a place make me a custom Y pipe that is tucked out of the way, and maybe even bolted together to be removable for trans work, etc. and then replace the cat and muffler myself and pretty much keep the stock location of those things.
 
Couple guys on here have had the pipes run back to behind the t-case and then do a quick Y, cat, and muffler setup. Can be done if they're good enough.
 
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/bumpstops.htm

Any reason not to order (2) pairs of those bumpstops for my rig?

I already know I have to do some serious trimming, but I must get some bumpstops on there asap.

ALSO....what size do I need to remove the drain/fill plugs on my np241 (I am hoping to pick it up on the way home, and dont know the size)

I somehow tightened mine too tight with an adjustable wrench, and I dont want to risk stripping it.
 
Uhmmmm...think it's 30mm. We've discussed it on here a zillion times.
 
I was just saying you might want to verify that. My memory isn't the greatest.

That said, I'm home now...


...30mm it is!
 
you are correct sir, I picked up a 30mm on the way home and it was exactly what I needed.

Anyway, filled up the TCase, zip tied the emergency brake lines to the frame (they arent connected yet - that looks to be a whole nother day - 14bff lines dont work with my stock setup

I checked the driveshaft length (amount of yoke in the tail) and it was just less than 2 inches. Is that safe to drive on the street with for now?

The main thing I worry about is the angle....I dont know much about this stuff, but the angle looks like it wouldnt work for long...

4.5" bump stops on order from ORD

IMG_1358.jpg

IMG_1360.jpg
 
Last edited:
what are the concerns with having the angle on my rear driveshaft being too sharp? does it wear out the joint? curious....I am going to take a lap around the block this evening, but wanted some input.

i dont want to tear it up...but i have done TONS of work, and havent even driven it yet!
 
I always use an 1 3/16" on those drain plugs. 30mm makes sense, I never thought about it being metric. It seemed odd to me that they would use a size most wrench sets don't include.

Martin
 
I used a 30mm socket and it fit perfect. I have acquired several new tools along the way so far ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom