CK5
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Finally build thread worthy material

A detroit requires traction to lock up, you need both wheels making contact to lock it up. A little locker whine is nothing to be concerned about, as you decelerate less force it put on the locker and what your hearing may be in unlocking.
 
Well, thats good to know. I actually drove it to work today, mainly because I am gettin pretty frustrated with all the work and money, and me not driving it and enjoying it. Is that common? I actually consider selling it from time to time, but I have alot of time and money in it, and I keep picturing and wanting it done, and go back and forth. I often wonder what I got myself into. As a wise man just told me....in order to do these blazers, you have to be a little retarded and hate money.

First trip at highway speeds, and it vibrates pretty good. Need to address that.

Second, got to work, and atf was dripping on the ground pretty rapidly. Looks like right where the transmission meets the transfer case? thoughts?

I dont get a puddle this big at home when it sits...

leak 1.jpg

leak 2.jpg

leak 3.jpg
 
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Is the leak coming from the back of the pan or down from the shadows there? Looks like it could be either to me.


Don't worry about the frustration. At 203,000 miles The Blazer needs a fair amount of resealing, repainting, tuning, and problem solving. I've been to the point of just giving up. However I do just love the damn thing.

Think about it this way...you can rebuild it. Time, effort, and money. More time and more effort from you means less money overall. Might have to go slow but that's what it is.

I'd rather spend $15k or something on The Blazer and have it in tip top shape than spend $45k on a new truck that I'm not all that impressed with.
 
yeah, i figured this frustration was common. I will put some thought in it...

Anyway, the leak is not from the back of the transmission pan itself..but about and inch behind it...right where they tcase meets up it looks like (in the cruddy area)
 
Seal's probably gone.

I say live with it until you can do the SYE or whatever. Be a great time to take it apart and reseal it.
 
I'd rather spend $15k or something on The Blazer and have it in tip top shape than spend $45k on a new truck that I'm not all that impressed with.


then when the 45k's paid off you still gotta put 15k back into the new one cause now IT needs all that stuff. I'll never buy new again.
 
Agree^^^^^

Don't worry, once you get some of the obvious stuff taken care of and it drives reliably, you will enjoy it much more. Yes, it takes some money to get these things running decent but you've done a lot of work too. I'd get your driveline fixed SOON. That will help a lot with your vibration and also let you distinguish if the noises are from the driveline or rearend. Driveline is the obvious problem right now.

In the short time, check your fluid levels and be sure your tranny and t-case have enough in them. If it leaks, that's fine but be sure nothing is about to run dry. Did you do a transfer case drop? You might of put a little downward force on the tranny connection and now it's dripping a little.

When I started, the PO said "well, sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't. I haven't really figured it out but if I let it sit for a day or 2, it gets better." :doah:Not a good start. After some work, I figured the distributor was bad. Once fixed, I have never had the thing leave me stranded for the past 8 months or so of ownership.

Labor of love (and some money)..... :woot:
 
No ****. Watching all my friends with newer trucks have to repair theirs at 60k miles with stuff that is quite possibly original on mine makes me laugh.
 
Pulling the t-case to fix that seal isn't a hard job. The drive shaft vibrations could be making it worse too. If the bolts are loose the vibes could be making them looser. Try crawling under there with a wrench and snugging them back up. 6 bolts from the adapter to t-case. 4 bolts from the trans to adapter. Something in the range of 13/14/15mm.

Something to be aware of, kind of amazed you're driving it like that. If there is not enough slip yoke inside the t-case, a good bump can pull the shaft right out. This creates many bad things. Anything from the shaft just falling on the ground and becoming a pole vault or it can get cockeyed on the end of the t-case and impale the case or other disastrous breakage.
 
I am concerned with this....I measured 2 inches of shaft inside the tcase tail..and now I cant see my marks anymore so I assume the springs settled some and its even further. I know its not alot, I just had to drive it today to avoid the negative urge to throw in the towel.

If I just have my current shaft re tubed to be longer....will this get me by?

I dont have money to do the sye, cv, etc right now. But with the leak getting worse, I dont know what I am going to do.

....kinda dreaming of the day when it was bone stock and drove around town just fine :doah:
 
....kinda dreaming of the day when it was bone stock and drove around town just fine :doah:

I think about that a lot as well. When I didn't have to worry about blowing the 10 bolt up because of the 35's, or having the same situation as you. Its a vicious circle. But, to me at least, it's worth it for the most part.
 
I really dont want to air out all my negative thoughts, they come and go some times....its really more of a money thing. I have too many hobbies I guess, and this one is the most expensive which makes it an easy target when the funds get tight.

I need to try and focus on just the task at hand, not the domino affect that everything causes. you add this, now you have to do this, now this doesnt fit, etc....

plus, I have been working on this for about 9 months, and have maybe 200 miles driven? its been all work, no play. I cant bring myself to do things half assed. Maybe my timeline is whats wrong, I am ready to ride now, and that is unrealistic on my budget. But yes, if a guy knocked on my door willing to trade me for what my blazer was the day I bought it....I would strongly consider. This project is more extreme than I originally set out to build. My dog is VERY upset that she can no longer hop in the back :D

ok, rant over...back to work. sounds like my first line of business is to go get my current driveshaft retubed to be longer...baby steps as Bob would say.
 
I don't know who's building a new shaft for $500. Maybe from Tom Woods?

I got mine done at a local place for $300. New slip yoke, used/rebuilt double cardan, new tube, and all new u-joints. All assembled and balanced.

I know you don't have a lot of $ right now for this but check around at any local d-shaft shop. See if they can do it cheaper than TW.
 
gonna call them...just so I know what I am talking about.

I need...longer DS tubing, AND longer slip yoke? And a CV on one end?

(i like to ask yall before I talk to other people because yall already know im stupid...i can fake it with people that dont know me)
 
You know what? Check online for Tattons drive shafts. I had found them on ebay. They built me a custom shaft for my old S10 for a VERY reasonable price. Good quality shaft too. Very easy to talk to, best to call them with your needs. They will go over what you need to measure and all that for build specs. Definitely worth a call.
 
You don't HAVE to have a CV shaft. A simple retube would be sufficient.

Martin
 
a crossmember spacer was also suggested...what are your thoughts on this? Doesnt that affect the angle of everything else? tcase, adapter, trans?
 
gonna call them...just so I know what I am talking about.

I need...longer DS tubing, AND longer slip yoke? And a CV on one end?

(i like to ask yall before I talk to other people because yall already know im stupid...i can fake it with people that dont know me)

I think bare minimum, you can just lengthen the drive shaft itself....not the slip yoke too. Once the driveline is lengthened, the slip yoke will go back into the case the proper distance. All you've done is increased the distance from the axle to the t-case. You need to make up that difference with a longer shaft.

This is bare minimum though. You MAY still have some vibration but you are much safer now to drive.

496Truck's suggestion would be better than mine long term.....SYE would be ideal.
 
Crossmember spacers are kinda sketchy. Might work...might not...might cause a bunch of other issues.
 
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