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FNG here.....Wasn't sure where to make the first post.

Managed to squeeze her in the garage. It’s a mess in there but it’s hard to stay on top of it when you work as much as I do.

Loved driving it around. Was an absolute blast. Just wished I could roll my windows down. Interior is going to be overhauled next.

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nice basic bumpers for it . not to bling or plain .

look them over as them d-ring tabs look way to thin and only surface welded . its better if there pass threw and tie in better . those look like they would pop like a zit . but the pics could be making them look different tho .
 
Nice looking rig!

K5Devil said:
That’s probably something I’ll do after a while. Right now I just want to drive it :D
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I'm going to be doing the Dodge 208 fix yoke swap on my K5 shortly. I'll document as good as I can incase you go that route. I found a Dodge 208 locally for $100, so it seemed like a good route to go to get a fix yoke on my 208.
 
GWeakland620 said:
I'm going to be doing the Dodge 208 fix yoke swap on my K5 shortly. I'll document as good as I can incase you go that route. I found a Dodge 208 locally for $100, so it seemed like a good route to go to get a fix yoke on my 208.
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I’ll be watching for that update.
 
drivelines northwest is definitely the place to go around here, great work and customer service, last year while thrashing to get my blazer together found out the front drive shaft was too long dropped it off when they opened and had it back two hours later.
 
Spent some quality time rerouting/redoing the wiring to clean this rats nest up. Still not sure what to do with this absolute mess of hosing. Why anyone would run wires over the top of hoses and the engine is beyond me. Unless it was to merely test your connections it’s not safe or good looking.

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Now:
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Sad news today. It appears I have a cracked head. Took it on it’s longest journey about 100 miles round trip to see how it would do and coolant started leaking into the valve train. It’s possible it could be the intake manifold gasket or possibly the head bolts were put in unsealed. But I have a feeling this is going to be expensive......:doah::1zhelp:

Will be sitting for a long time now as I barely have enough free time to change oil regularly. Might just buy a new engine rather than try to make time to get this overhaul done. :dunno:

Going to do a pressure test on it and see what comes up. I have a feeling the head is cracked as it’s pretty common for trick flows to have this flaw. Totally bummed. But I have all winter to fix it up. Big bonus check in January and the wife gave me the green light to dump some cash on it. :saweet:

It won’t be the last you see of it but I’ll be over here with my tail between my legs.

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So what heads are those? Aluminum heads aren't super prone to cracking, even freezing the block usually gets the freeze plugs first
But head gasket...
 
Bent77 said:
So what heads are those? Aluminum heads aren't super prone to cracking, even freezing the block usually gets the freeze plugs first
But head gasket...
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Trick Flow 195 Aluminum heads. I haven’t dropped the oil yet to see if there’s coolant in the pan. But I’m pretty sure my temp gauge wasn’t reading properly. Took my exit on the way home and just thick white smoke out the passenger tailpipe. It ate all the coolant I put in this morning before the trip. The dipstick reads clean so at least that’s a good sign.
 
I bet the contents of the pan look just as stellar as the valve cover

money on the head gasket...
 
Bent77 said:
I bet the contents of the pan look just as stellar as the valve cover

money on the head gasket...
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I hope it’s only a head gasket. :doah:From what I’m reading online though is that trick flow has major problems with their heads cracking. There is coolant on both passenger and driver valve train.....more so on the passenger side. If the pan has coolant I am then worried that I ran it about 5 miles home and may have damaged the rotating assembly. Which steers me into just buying a built motor and rebuilding this one slowly over time.
 
You might not know if you hurt the bottom until you check everything. Unless you have the magic tools, or that means a trip to the machine shop...

Let us know how this goes
 
Usually if coolant gets in the oil--the bearings start knocking about a week after the head gaskets are replaced..:(

The engine doesn't have to be run for long with coolant in the oil for the damage to begin unfortunately...but it takes awhile for the bearings to start making noise..sucks,because it fools you into thinking "it'll live" after all that work..

My friend won't do any head gasket jobs at his shop any more,he tells the customer to go buy a low mileage used salvage yard engine instead,after having that scenario happen too many times--often an engine swap is less work and time than doing head gaskets "in the vehicle".....or they can go elsewhere to have head gaskets replaced and he wishes them good luck..

Sorry you had this happen...perhaps you might luck out and find out its just the intake gaskets,and it didn't get wounded badly enough to cause any lower end woes..
 
Radiator pressure test shows leak at the thermostat housing. Possibly stuck thermostat.

Pulled all the plugs and on cylinder #8 it was wet with coolant.

Ran a compression test and yep. Cylinder #8 has coolant shooting out when I hit the release valve on the pressure gauge.

Going to drain the systems and begin the tear down.

Really sucks. I bought a new water pump and thermostat last week but didn’t find this pump leaking. It was running a little hot but it’s also a 383 running on pump gas and timed up a bit. It was still in the back of my mind and I should have changed it and the thermostat. I believe the culprit was an intermittent water pump + stuck thermostat. Oh well, the engine was dirty anyways it will look new when I’m done.

Ran out of time tonight to do much more tonight. As for the bottom end; It wasn’t ran for long once I knew what had happened. Maybe 5 miles. I’ll fill the bottom end with diesel fuel and let it soak for a couple days. Slowly put new oil in and change it every 20-100-200-500 miles until it’s lubed. Old school trick I’ve used before on many different engines.

Sucks, but it is what it is. I’m actually excited to take it all apart and clean it anyways.
 
My .02 (not necessary right)


With aluminum heads, the head gasket selection is very critical. You may have had more than one issue, and if it was heating, it may have already been an issue.

I’d skip the diesel and prime it on regular engine oil while turning it periodically
 
Bent77 said:
My .02 (not necessary right)


With aluminum heads, the head gasket selection is very critical. You may have had more than one issue, and if it was heating, it may have already been an issue.

I’d skip the diesel and prime it on regular engine oil while turning it periodically
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Everything depends on the condition of the heads. If they’re cracked I’ll be looking for a turnkey set up.

The diesel fuel just helps clean all the coolant out. It wont be rotating with the diesel fuel in it it’s just to soak it like a parts cleaner. Then primed with engine oil and cycled through to clear the diesel fuel remnants.
 
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