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FNG here.....Wasn't sure where to make the first post.

kgblazerfive said:
think of it like a clutch when you slow down you need to disengage the clutch.
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Hmm, I think something isn’t correct then. What is the point of having the switch at all then? Couldn’t you just wire it to do this without a switch?

Really confused. It runs at a higher RPM or a lower RPM depending on which direction the switch is flipped. Not sure which one is locked and which one isn’t.
 
there is different levels of lockup kits . sound like you got a real low end one .

and high rpm = unlocked
also low rpm = locked up
 
Ok what I’m gathering here is that I need to flip the switch when getting up to cruising highway speeds (into the position that causes the bogging at acceleration at lower speeds.) this is the lock up. Then when exiting the freeway I would flip the switch back down for cruising around town. That’s how I’ve been doing it.
 
sweetk30 said:
there is different levels of lockup kits . sound like you got a real low end one .

and high rpm = unlocked
also low rpm = locked up
Click to expand...

I was using it correctly then. Just really annoying to have to flip a switch when you’re just trying to cruise. It’s a monster transmission kit, whatever that means, kid I got it from had a booklet of receipts. He also he told me he hooked it up himself. Which from the looks of his wiring skills had me worried but sounds as if it’s working correctly. The truck does have 4:88 gears so that may be why the bogging is so severe if you forget to hit the switch.
 
The 4:88 gears will help lessen the bogg when the converter is locked. I would imagine that there is a very noticeable difference with a 2500 stall converter between locked and unlocked.
I have yet to kill an engine by forgetting to unlock the converter when slowing down because there is no hydraulic way to keep it locked once the transmission downshifts to 1st gear. It does buck a little, depending on gear and tire combo.
If you get a way to only power the lock-up circuit once you are above 40 to 45 MPH, then you wouldn't have to flip a switch. That's what some if the B&M kits do.
 
6872xtc said:
The 4:88 gears will help lessen the bogg when the converter is locked. I would imagine that there is a very noticeable difference with a 2500 stall converter between locked and unlocked.
I have yet to kill an engine by forgetting to unlock the converter when slowing down because there is no hydraulic way to keep it locked once the transmission downshifts to 1st gear. It does buck a little, depending on gear and tire combo.
If you get a way to only power the lock-up circuit once you are above 40 to 45 MPH, then you wouldn't have to flip a switch. That's what some if the B&M kits do.
Click to expand...

Ahh, so the bogging could be worse. It doesnt stall the engine so that makes sense.
 
4.88 = loooooong leverage bar to make work easy

stock 3.08 or 3.42 maybe = short leverage bar to make work harder .
 
My cousin finally ran out of race car engines and has my block in the tank. The cylinders are fine. It’s got an eagle crank. The bearings were worn to the copper likely from the punishing drive home with coolant in the oil.

So, getting the new bearings and the engine back together hopefully within the next week or so.

I got the 700r4 motor mount braces from @MAXMAN and I appreciate it!

She’s coming together shortly!

Need a good name for the rig. I prefer girl names. Plan on hand pin striping the name on the lower part of the tail gate in old school lettering. I am open to suggestions.
 
One of the tags for this thread is Jimmy... if this is a Jimmy, then giving it a girl name is asking for grief!!!
Lol!
Glad to hear that things are moving forward!
 
Dropped off all the rest of the parts.

Getting the heads decked as there was a warp in the center on the head that the gasket blew on.

Bearings were definitely shot. Very glad I decided to take the engine in. They wouldn’t have lasted long and now it’s something I need not worry about.

Definitely get your bearings done if you blow a head gasket. They turn to copper very quickly. I honestly didn’t think they would be that damaged. Had the crank inspected and it meets all tolerances and has been polished. Just a week more or so. Luckily I’m working 12-16hr days 7 days a week right now but sadly it will take me a bit to get the motor stuffed back in with all this time at work.

My cousin is even going to paint it for me Chevy orange. Can’t wait to get it back on the road.
 
Contemplating a GPS tracker and keeping the soft top.

If I build or buy a gps tracker that also acts as a starter kill switch I would be comfortable keeping the soft top.

Many people have had their rides stolen from my place of employment. Sounds crazy but it happens all the time. It’s the main reason why I wanted to get rid of the soft top.
 
6872xtc said:
One of the tags for this thread is Jimmy... if this is a Jimmy, then giving it a girl name is asking for grief!!!
Lol!
Glad to hear that things are moving forward!
Click to expand...

I’m thinking “For Grief” is a good name
 
just a fyi as a former tow truck operator all i will say is this .

when is the last time you second guessed a tow truck towing a vehicle with a alarm going off ? ? ?

if i was to ever go to the dark side of the law this is how i would do it . so plan your security so its ignition or power AND anti easy tow option .
 
sweetk30 said:
just a fyi as a former tow truck operator all i will say is this .

when is the last time you second guessed a tow truck towing a vehicle with a alarm going off ? ? ?

if i was to ever go to the dark side of the law this is how i would do it . so plan your security so its ignition or power AND anti easy tow option .
Click to expand...


Hidden emergency brake? I could run the brake into the locked tuffy box which is my center console.

I used to work for a repo company when I was younger. Man that was some fun stuff. Sneaking around and “stealing cars” hahaha
 
ebrake = no problem with a spray can of p.b. blaster or w.d. 40 . . . think harder .

turn wheels so front will roll in to another vehicle stuff like this . to a true operator its easy to over come stuff but the longer / harder you make it the more time they have to spend on it .

i have a swith that feed power from the e.c.m to the fuel pump relay . if i flip it 1 time no power goes out . if its flipped again its sent to a BACKUP BEEPER ! so as they power the system up if they get this far its BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP for every one to here .

also there is 4 shifter levers in my truck . . . . . figure out how to shift that !
 
sweetk30 said:
ebrake = no problem with a spray can of p.b. blaster or w.d. 40 . . . think harder .

turn wheels so front will roll in to another vehicle stuff like this . to a true operator its easy to over come stuff but the longer / harder you make it the more time they have to spend on it .

i have a swith that feed power from the e.c.m to the fuel pump relay . if i flip it 1 time no power goes out . if its flipped again its sent to a BACKUP BEEPER ! so as they power the system up if they get this far its BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP for every one to here .

also there is 4 shifter levers in my truck . . . . . figure out how to shift that !
Click to expand...

Turning the wheel hard and getting a removable steering wheel.

Was also thinking of building another steering lock system that needs a key under the dash.

The cool thing about GPS trackers is that you can hide them well and use it to disable your car from starting be it fuel or starter solenoid. So I can park it make sure it won’t start for anyone. Kill all the 12v power to the cab with a switch. Also, gps trackers will alert you immediately if your vehicle moves wether it’s started or not.
 
Basically, you can’t get it theft proof 100% but you CAN slow them down and track its location and I understand this.
 
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