wasted wages
1 ton status
let me ask you this..... In a buggy that will never again see speeds over 30 mph and never be road driven,,, Is "getting it right" that critical ? would a "fair" link setup be better than a "good" leaf spring set up?
CK5
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Four link calculator numbers?
- Thread starter dangerdog
- Start date
let me ask you this..... In a buggy that will never again see speeds over 30 mph and never be road driven,,, Is "getting it right" that critical ? would a "fair" link setup be better than a "good" leaf spring set up?
wasted wages
1 ton status
My point exactly..... I have seen your truck up close and watched it perform...
If this was "just getting lucky".... you hit the lotto of suspension systems !!
let me ask you this..... In a buggy that will never again see speeds over 30 mph and never be road driven,,, Is "getting it right" that critical ? would a "fair" link setup be better than a "good" leaf spring set up?
My point exactly..... I have seen your truck up close and watched it perform...
If this was "just getting lucky".... you hit the lotto of suspension systems !!
Getting close will amaze you. Leafs can and do have the travel numbers, with a traction bar they come close to not having axle wrap. Link suspensions have the travel with no axle wrap.
Wade did a good job with his blazer but I bet even he knows that it can be better. Now for what he does with his blazer and what it can do because of Mass is it worth tweaking it, probably not.
My point with mentioning driving the same link setup for like seven years and thinking it was good is to address what you are asking. Yes close is good, BUT once you have it you will want more so why not get better so you don't redo it again.
Use "Alt-PrtScrn" and paste the image into MS Paint.....save as .jpg
Upload to photobucket and post the link.
Ain't nobody going to try to read those .txt files and figure out what going on there.....
-G
Upload to photobucket and post the link.
Ain't nobody going to try to read those .txt files and figure out what going on there.....
-G
Or if you have windows 7 you can use the snipit tool
See if you can bring your roll center down, AS up, other than that looks fine.
If the tire radius is 42", your rolling radius will not be half that. Flat spot at the bottom.
What axles are you using?
Steel or aluminum wheels?
Are you going to a full cage? The reason I ask is, mine is caged with 2" .120 DOM for the main 3 hoops, 1.5" .120 DOM for all other tubing. Tied to the frame at 14 points. Coil overs, Bypasses, 35" spare on a steel bead lock and enough tools to due a full tear down. It tips the scales at 6550 lbs. Then you add 2 200+ lbs guys. So I think your vehicle mass might be heavy.
And I agree with Eric on the roll center issue.
But I'm no expert.
What axles are you using?
Steel or aluminum wheels?
Are you going to a full cage? The reason I ask is, mine is caged with 2" .120 DOM for the main 3 hoops, 1.5" .120 DOM for all other tubing. Tied to the frame at 14 points. Coil overs, Bypasses, 35" spare on a steel bead lock and enough tools to due a full tear down. It tips the scales at 6550 lbs. Then you add 2 200+ lbs guys. So I think your vehicle mass might be heavy.
And I agree with Eric on the roll center issue.
But I'm no expert.
Expert we don neeed no steeenkin experts
It would be easier if it wasn't in that text format I didn't even look at anything else just the important bits.
What are we working with here? Is this the front or the rear?
One ton axels.
Steel wheels .
It was just a guess on the weight. Four seater full cage tubed rear frame 2" .120 no top tapered front rear with just skins.
So you are building exactly what Eric has with horton.
This is Horton
I am cutting off the front of my frame sometime soon and linking the front. I can get plenty of control from a traction bar and when I link the rear it will be for control not travel, my 63s work pretty well.
I am cutting off the front of my frame sometime soon and linking the front. I can get plenty of control from a traction bar and when I link the rear it will be for control not travel, my 63s work pretty well.
I would really like to see numbers for the front suspension too before I pass judgement on the rear.
But if you build it like the last numbers you posted it should work just dandy.
I much prefer to design a front suspension first even if its not going to get built first because there is much more compromise on the front. Rear is less of a compromise
But if you build it like the last numbers you posted it should work just dandy.
I much prefer to design a front suspension first even if its not going to get built first because there is much more compromise on the front. Rear is less of a compromise
WOW!.....55" long links??
You should take a look at the materials tab and see what kind of FS values you have....specifically for bending loads. A link that long is going to be really hard to build strong enough to not bend when it's got the full weight of the truck on it....and balanced on a rock.
-G
You should take a look at the materials tab and see what kind of FS values you have....specifically for bending loads. A link that long is going to be really hard to build strong enough to not bend when it's got the full weight of the truck on it....and balanced on a rock.
-G
Oh wow didn't look at that guess I need to actually read everything, shorten those things up a ton and get back to us
I have done super long links before but I tend to use 2.5" .500 wall tube. Just way too long to worry about them bending so I go overkill
Ok now we are getting somewhere. I still have to apply it to the chasis to see if I am in my parameters. And I will try to lay out the front. Is there different guildlines,numbers to shoot for for the front?
I still have to apply it to the chasis to see if I am in my parameters. And I will try to lay out the front. Is there different guildlines,numbers to shoot for for the front?
Ok now we are getting somewhere.
No real correlations but you can sometimes help bad characteristics from the front by designing the rear different.
You need to look at clearance too. Most guys linking their stuff are gonna crawl or go fast. If you dont' care about crawling and wanna go fast no biggie. Crawling with a big heavy truck means 1/4 thick brackets get bent like paper so they need bracing and if you can keep it all tucked in it just hits flat stuff. Which is good. Better to have shorter links not hit at all than have your tire not hitting the ground cause you have way long links.
I promise to start paying more attention I have missed a couple of big things on this one. Won't comment any more when I am on my phone lol
