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Frame Boxing kit : Suburban interest??

I would be interested in one for my 89 Jimmy. I will keep an eye on your site to see when they come out. I have all of your suspension and one diff cover and love all of the stuff. I will be getting the other diff cover and this box kit when it comes out.
 
mnstrburbon said:
It seams the main place these frames bend is in the front upward curve just past the rear spring mount. Also instead of making it solid maybe a tear drop or open pattern so its only welded every 8 or so inches so debris and stuff don't get trapped in the frame.

The front kit would be nice seeing as i bent my frame and know of alot of others that have done the same to the front.
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I would be interested in the front kit also
 
Front half is a doable kit.

It'll be some time before these go up on the website. I don't want these getting too hot until we have gotten some feedback from some customers.

First full kit shipping out Monday, it's going in a blazer. 76zimmer is gona help us determine what changes need to be made for the early 70's blazer frames.
 
cybrfire said:
Front half is a doable kit.

It'll be some time before these go up on the website. I don't want these getting too hot until we have gotten some feedback from some customers.

First full kit shipping out Monday, it's going in a blazer. 76zimmer is gona help us determine what changes need to be made for the early 70's blazer frames.
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Great timing Kert, I should get my frame back from the strippers by Wed. I'll be ready to start on it by then. By the way the Flip brackets, and the disc caliper brackets KICK A$$. Thank you sir.
 
76zimmer said:
Great timing Kert, I should get my frame back from the strippers by Wed. I'll be ready to start on it by then. By the way the Flip brackets, and the disc caliper brackets KICK A$$. Thank you sir.
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Your welcome and thank you.
 
yeah, I am fully caged and would actually be interested in a front half kit. Maybe you could also offer a rear half kit. That way, when someone does the front half kit, they can upgrade if they want. I want the front kit and maybe in the future, if I ever remove the body, I will do the back. I can't do the front kit right now.......I have to get my frame straightened. I bent it right in front of the shackle hanger. I also have to put the new frame shackle hanger in that I got from you.
 
Getting back to the half kits for a moment here.

Not sure if you guys are looking to save some coin and finish the kit out yourself or are only intending on boxing half the frame.

IMHO its a bad idea to box portions. I've always felt its an all or nothing sort of endeavour. That being said, there are ways to do half or a portion of a frame. It's all about how you stop the boxed section. Stepping it down gradually so the stress on the frame can taper off rather than end abruptly causing a stress riser.
 
My Jimmy has a full cage inside. It will be tied to the frame in 8 points. My frame is bent right now. When I get it straightened, I am going to continue the cage into the engine compartment. It will be hard to really triangulate the way I have inside the Jimmy. I figure, I am greatly braced up to the front body mount and braced well from there up. If I get a front half kit that goes back to the second body mount, it will help transfer load back to the strongest part of my frame.
 
cybrfire said:
Getting back to the half kits for a moment here.

Not sure if you guys are looking to save some coin and finish the kit out yourself or are only intending on boxing half the frame.

IMHO its a bad idea to box portions. I've always felt its an all or nothing sort of endeavour. That being said, there are ways to do half or a portion of a frame. It's all about how you stop the boxed section. Stepping it down gradually so the stress on the frame can taper off rather than end abruptly causing a stress riser.
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I would do just the front, I was thinking the same thing you were. Maybe just do sort of a half moon shape

I would be getting a full cage when I did it also, maybe boatsides also.
 
You guys can order the half kits anytime you like. You'll have to give me a call.

I don't want to put these on the website just yet.
 
bummer, i might do mine this summer would you be interested in a pattern off the rails if i do? i might just find a nother suburban frame to weld in next to mine and cut off excess. that sounds like a pain:doah:
 
bftank said:
bummer, i might do mine this summer would you be interested in a pattern off the rails if i do? i might just find a nother suburban frame to weld in next to mine and cut off excess. that sounds like a pain:doah:
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Unfortunately wouldn't work for the way we do the prototype. Appreciate the offer though.

That kinda does sound like a pain. Cardboard and sheetmetal may be in your future.
 
Kert, I got my frame back today. I laid out the pieces you sent, and the front piece I figured out where that went. That piece is intended to be cut to fit around the front crossmember I assume? I don't want to hack it up if you had other ideas about the install of it.
Then I took a cardboard template of the frame from where the forward piece ended to just before the kickup for the rear section. I laid it out on top of the piece that matched the closest, and there is a difference toward the rear of that piece, and also a gap at the front of about 3" between pieces. This may change once the front piece is actually installed. I will post some pics if I can get my photobucket account to upload the pics. I'm at work right now, so it'll be late tonight before I can get back to it.
Also the middle/rear piece (3rd piece from the front) is difficult to line up due to the crossmembers. Should I remove the rivets and crossmembers to get a good fit/or template of the rest of the frame? That seems like it would be the most accurate that way, but a PITA somewhat.
I'll post up some on my thread when I feel it will add to the progress of the kit.
 
76zimmer said:
Kert, I got my frame back today. I laid out the pieces you sent, and the front piece I figured out where that went. That piece is intended to be cut to fit around the front crossmember I assume? I don't want to hack it up if you had other ideas about the install of it.
Then I took a cardboard template of the frame from where the forward piece ended to just before the kickup for the rear section. I laid it out on top of the piece that matched the closest, and there is a difference toward the rear of that piece, and also a gap at the front of about 3" between pieces. This may change once the front piece is actually installed. I will post some pics if I can get my photobucket account to upload the pics. I'm at work right now, so it'll be late tonight before I can get back to it.
Also the middle/rear piece (3rd piece from the front) is difficult to line up due to the crossmembers. Should I remove the rivets and crossmembers to get a good fit/or template of the rest of the frame? That seems like it would be the most accurate that way, but a PITA somewhat.
I'll post up some on my thread when I feel it will add to the progress of the kit.
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You can either cut to fit around the crossmember, this would be the strongest way. Or like we did, remove the crossmember and box past it and trim the crossmember to fit between the frame rails.

On the gap between the first and second sections, Get one installed and see where it takes you. Things change quite a bit as you work it into the recess and different bends the frame has.

I'd pull the rivets and drop the crossmember out. Gona be the least amount of fight I think. Whatever you do, only pull one crossmember at a time. Taking too many out at one time can cause another set of issues. Temporary crossmembers can be used as well.

It's a big job isn't it...
 
cybrfire said:
I'd also like to state it up front, there'll be some fudging you'll have to do on your end. Even with the kit, this wouldn't be something I'd recommend for the weak of heart. If your not familiar with bullying some sheetmetal around, this thing will kick your arse from one end to the other.

quote]

Well I can't say you didn't warn me....:haha:

I have gotten a couple ideas from Ryoken about using cross bracing and leveling the frame on stands before removing the crossmembers.....And another good idea to only remove one at a time.

Stay tuned.
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some pics of the front pieces in the kit. As Kert suggests this can either be cut around the front crossmember or take out the crossmember and weld in the metal plates, then weld in the crossmember.

HPIM1483.jpg


this is a template I made of where the front piece ends, and this template goes back to just before the rear kickup.

HPIM1489.jpg


Another after cutting to fit the frame

HPIM1490.jpg


This shows the irregular width of the top channel of the frame

HPIM1491.jpg


and this is the template laid down on the existing kit piece

HPIM1494.jpg
 
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