Me too! I have a frame naked and waiting in the garage.
CK5
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Frame Boxing kit : Suburban interest??
- Thread starter cybrfire
- Start date
Blazer frame boxing kit progress:
I got some square tubing for bracing today, to reinforce the frame rails while I remove the crossmembers to fit the boxing kit.
I set the frame on jackstands and leveled it (middle of side rails) with the rear supports (the 2 garbage cans with the landscape tie on it)
I took measurements from 4 points on each frame rail to a marked spot on the floor with a makeshift plumb bob. measurements were recorded, on the frame and on a piece of paper. I also took measurements from a common point on each frame rail, diagonally to check for squareness of the frame and to make sure it stays that way.
Checking level:
plumb drop measurements:
checking for squareness, diagonally across the framerails.
All squared away, and level, measurements recorded, bracing added:
Next step torch off the rivets holding in the crossmembers. Only the rearmost crossmember, and the frontmost crossmember will remain intact.
I got some square tubing for bracing today, to reinforce the frame rails while I remove the crossmembers to fit the boxing kit.
I set the frame on jackstands and leveled it (middle of side rails) with the rear supports (the 2 garbage cans with the landscape tie on it)
I took measurements from 4 points on each frame rail to a marked spot on the floor with a makeshift plumb bob. measurements were recorded, on the frame and on a piece of paper. I also took measurements from a common point on each frame rail, diagonally to check for squareness of the frame and to make sure it stays that way.
Checking level:
plumb drop measurements:
checking for squareness, diagonally across the framerails.
All squared away, and level, measurements recorded, bracing added:
Next step torch off the rivets holding in the crossmembers. Only the rearmost crossmember, and the frontmost crossmember will remain intact.
I took measurements today of the bottom framerails at 4 points for reference. I need to talk with Kert about how his intention of the kit is to be installed or if its up to the owner. The framerails are not a straight cut on the inside. there is many places where the frame is scalloped in or out, and may have a pointed ridge here and there. I was thinking to just put the boxing pieces flush with the lower or upper frame rail where they fit, and then where there may be a pointer on the frame rail, or a scallop, move the metal inboard so it is in full metal contact.
If you look down the inside of the framerail in this shot, you can see how uneven the inner edges, upper and lower are.
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If you look down the inside of the framerail in this shot, you can see how uneven the inner edges, upper and lower are.
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Zimmer,
I know exactly what points you are refering too. In our PM I stated we started in the rear. I don't think that will help you.
Start in the front and line up to the frame horns keeping the height of the sheet as much in line with the frame as you can. Start clamping it and pulling it toward the frame. Most places where you have a "LIP" difference top to bottom on the frame rail it'll pull in pretty easily with a couple welding clamps. Whatever you do, don't tack to far in front of you clamps. If you do you'll have to then stretch the steel into place rather than just roll it.
A couple of spots have sharp peaks on the top lip. Just blend those in with a flapper and continue forming the sheet steel into the frame rail lips. Once you get going you'll get a feel for it. Sometimes clamping the bottom first works better other times top first. Just depends on how your trying to form the metal.
I know I'm throwing alot at you here. Don't forget, sometimes cutting the box strip sheet off will help you. Smaller chunk to work with can be helpful.
Damn I wish we would have videod some of what we did so I could show you the process.
I know exactly what points you are refering too. In our PM I stated we started in the rear. I don't think that will help you.
Start in the front and line up to the frame horns keeping the height of the sheet as much in line with the frame as you can. Start clamping it and pulling it toward the frame. Most places where you have a "LIP" difference top to bottom on the frame rail it'll pull in pretty easily with a couple welding clamps. Whatever you do, don't tack to far in front of you clamps. If you do you'll have to then stretch the steel into place rather than just roll it.
A couple of spots have sharp peaks on the top lip. Just blend those in with a flapper and continue forming the sheet steel into the frame rail lips. Once you get going you'll get a feel for it. Sometimes clamping the bottom first works better other times top first. Just depends on how your trying to form the metal.
I know I'm throwing alot at you here. Don't forget, sometimes cutting the box strip sheet off will help you. Smaller chunk to work with can be helpful.
Damn I wish we would have videod some of what we did so I could show you the process.
One more tip that I just remembered. When you run into a spot you want to hammer the box strip into Like this... )...., tack on either side of it and it won't bounce. I'll form into the shape of the frame.
I got ya Kert. I'm working from just behind the front crossmember right now. I made a template of cardboard, and laid that out on the boxing piece, and will "form" it to the frame from there. When I get the other crossmembers removed, I will get some poster board and make some templates to send you.
And I will try to get some pics too, as I go along. I just got my hands on so many projects right now. Suspension, doubler, trans rebuild, Big Block details, rear diff for the Vette. Man work just messes up time to work on hobby stuff ya know.
And I will try to get some pics too, as I go along. I just got my hands on so many projects right now. Suspension, doubler, trans rebuild, Big Block details, rear diff for the Vette. Man work just messes up time to work on hobby stuff ya know.
I've been reviewing some boxing threads, and came across this one:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140818&highlight=boxing+frame
Any comments on fitting the pieces inside the C channel, and stitch welding as done above?
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140818&highlight=boxing+frame
Any comments on fitting the pieces inside the C channel, and stitch welding as done above?
LUBA
1/2 ton status
Did he ever do a first gen blazer boxing kit?
Some progress pics of the K10 shortbox kit on my 2nd gen, 1st design frame:
Area kicking up to the floor:
This is where the K10 frame starts to differ from the Blazer frame.
And a template of the blazer rear floor, compared to the bed of a shortbox:
Area kicking up to the floor:
This is where the K10 frame starts to differ from the Blazer frame.
And a template of the blazer rear floor, compared to the bed of a shortbox:
We're working toward adding them to the product line. Hopefully when you're ready, we will be too.
We do have the appropriate blazer at the shop to do the R and D for your kit. Just takes time.
Adventurous 4x4
1/2 ton status
I am not boxing the whole frame but I need a piece that will go from a little behind the trans mount crossmember to the upward bend in front of the axle. I would like it in 1/4" because of my upper link mounts. Can you make it and if so how much?
What frame model and year? And if you can, some specific reference points for each end.
