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Fuel line from pump to carb- guidance needed

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GoGoGirl

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It's looking like I need to replace that final piece of hard (copper?) fuel line that runs from my fuel pump to carb.

I don't know the history or exact model of my engine as it was swapped in before I got the truck. PO didn't know either. It's an old 350, circa 1979, and has a Quadrajet carb.

I don't want to buy the wrong part so I could use some help. I did some searching online and it seems there are a few possibilities for that age range of an engine. Can anyone help in figuring out which one I need? Do I just stand above it and look down at the shape of the line, and then order based on its appearance?
 
Unless you find a used line you'll likely have to buy a straight piece and bend it yourself. Unless someone like "Inline Tube" sells it I don't think they're available prebent.
 
When mine got buggered up, i cut the line out between the fittings and replaced it with 5/8 fuel line and stainless steel hose clamps.

I cut the tube about 1 inch beyond the flare and that is what i attach the 5/8" fuel line to.
That way the flare and nut are re-used.

Cut it with a mini pipe cutter (home depot plumbing tools aisle).
That way, no metal grit.

Alternately, you could find barb fittings to thread into the fp and carb.
But the hillbilly way works just fine.

If you want original looking, go to NAPA and buy the appropriate line, flare tool, nuts, and a spring style tubing bender.
It would take some doing.
But steel is better than my hillbilly fuel line for obvious reasons.
 
take off the old one, buy a new hard line and buy a little hand bender if you don't have one, they are like 20 bucks, use the old one as a template.
you mess the old one up, take a coat hanger to make a new one on the engine, then us that as your guide to bend the new one.
 
K5wrench said:
When mine got buggered up, i cut the line out between the fittings and replaced it with 5/8 fuel line and stainless steel hose clamps.

I cut the tube about 1 inch beyond the flare and that is what i attach the 5/8" fuel line to.
That way the flare and nut are re-used.

Cut it with a mini pipe cutter (home depot plumbing tools aisle).
That way, no metal grit.

Alternately, you could find barb fittings to thread into the fp and carb.
But the hillbilly way works just fine.

If you want original looking, go to NAPA and buy the appropriate line, flare tool, nuts, and a spring style tubing bender.
It would take some doing.
But steel is better than my hillbilly fuel line for obvious reasons.
Click to expand...

What I dislike about that method is there is now no barbing where the soft fuel line clamps to the steel line. Leaks are common with this method, and fuel leaks are never good.
 
You can also send your line to inline tube and they can match it up
 
76zimmer said:
It’s NOT 5/8” line!
See if this closely matches your existing setup...
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/SCTC7342
Click to expand...
In my opinion this is your best bet. While you have it off remove the filter in the carb being very careful not to cross thread the fitting putting it back in . Install a quality [Donaldson or Baldwin] metal inline filter right before the supply line from frame to fuel pump, use good quality screw type clamps not the pinch with pliers type.
 
K5wrench said:
5/8" rubber fuel line.
I've never had it leak.
Click to expand...
5/8" is heater hose size HUGE

3/8" will slip over the hard line snug .

when doing the cut / hose method its best to flare a small bulb on the end of the line for the clamp to stop at if it tryes to slide . also helps seal the line better to the hose .
 
Man I ordered a prebent stainless steel one from I think it was summit about a year ago. It worked good with very little tweeking. I will go look for the receipt in a bit for the part #

I've actually been wanting to order another one since I accidentally forgot and left it at a mechanics shop
 
sweetk30 said:
5/8" is heater hose size HUGE

3/8" will slip over the hard line snug .

when doing the cut / hose method its best to flare a small bulb on the end of the line for the clamp to stop at if it tryes to slide . also helps seal the line better to the hose .
Click to expand...
Oops. Yea 5/16ths.
And i havent even been drinking.
Crawling under my rock now.
Carry on.
 
Ha! Guess I should specify what happened.

I changed the fuel filter and must have put the line back into the carb at just the wrong angle, thus apparently causing the flare at the end to get mis-shaped. I tried tightening it, no luck. I had my mechanic and his assistant try to tighten it as well, and they could do no better than I could.

I can't even start the truck at this point (haven't tried pouring fuel directly in however) because there's no fuel pressure. When I was able to get it running, gas was dripping out like a fountain right at the point where that flared end is, no matter how tight the nuts were.
 
DO NOT START IT . . . . if its not sealed and the flair is boogered up you could pump fuel like crazy and cause a huge fire .
 
The factory filter is not real user friendly to change out, many people have done exactly what you did. Order up a new line from inline, deep six the factory filter as mentioned before. Imagine trying to change it while you are plowing snow in the middle of winter! Installing a filter before your fuel pump in the rubber lines is way easier to change out in the future. The fine thread fitting that screws into the carb is VERY easy to cross thread, be patient. I believe you can do it Sarah.
 
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