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Fuel line from pump to carb- guidance needed

It looks like there may have been a black gasket on that fitting--its so squashed it looks like part of it ?...

I'd leave out the paper gas filter & spring and install a universal gas filter in the steel line--then you'll never have to deal with that fuel line fitting again and risk stripping the threads or cracking the carb there..

Those OEM gas filters are worthless in my opinion--when they get clogged enough,the pressure builds up and the spring lets the filter move and gas to flow past it--along with any crud and dirt..then you risk destroying the carb trying to replace it..

Forgive me if I'm repeating myself..
 
Yes, was waiting for someone else to say that. Get an inline filter and get rid of that carb filter. Once you get it sealed hopefully won't have to deal with it again. In your last pics looks to me like the tubing is wet which would suggest it's leaking at the flare. :dunno:
 
Thank you all. I've been doing my best with what little free time I have and still don't know where the leak is. As long as it doesn't become a long, drawn-out affair involving a tow truck, tomorrow I bring the beast to the mechanic to see what he finds out. Stay tuned for the exciting updates!!
 
I'd bring a fire extinguisher with you,or at least a big box of baking soda,in case it does start a fire..if its not leaking a steady stream you'll be OK probably,especially on a cold day..

I had a Carter AFB carb that leaked at the fuel inlet fitting,no matter what I tried--I came to the conclusion the threads in the casting were just too sloppy to seal well enough,it had a fiber gasket similar to the fitting on your carb..
To get by "temporarily" ,I took the fitting out,and put some Permatex "Indian Head Gasket Shellac" stuff I had hanging around,its a small bottle with a dauber like shoe polish comes in--the stuff is super thick and gooey,like molasses ,I put a thick coat on just the threads of the fitting ,after I sprayed it clean with brake cleaner and dried up all the gas and cleaner with an air gun...just letting it evaporate will probably work too..

Then I screwed in the fitting with a new gasket and tightened it,and walked away,let it set overnight and harden up good..next day I put the fuel line back on and started it up,no leaks..
I drove that truck at least 3 years that way,never leaked again,and I bet that fitting would never unscrew ever again,that shellac hardens up like a weld once it dries completely..
If even a drop of it got in the carb though,it would have ruined it probably,clog it right up...

Perhaps you could put some J-B Waterweld putty around the fitting and steel line and the nut,to at least slow the leak down enough to drive it more safely..

I keep a tube of it in my glove box for emergency uses like that..you just knead the putty till its all one gray color and smoosh it on,and let it harden..it wont seal up if there is any gas on where you put it,it has to be clean and dry..
 
It's just a drip, thankfully. And as far as I'm concerned placing a fire extinguisher in a vehicle the moment you acquire it is as much common sense as looking both ways before crossing the street-- always on hand. I don't have far to drive either. We'll see what happens.

JB Weld is an awesome idea by the way. Wish I thought of that sooner!!
 
My truck has no fire extinguisher,but one night after I came home and saw something unusual under the truck,that looked like a light flickering,I thought it was the trouble lamp I put on the inner fender,that I got off a later model GM truck had turned itself on somehow--it just has a knob you turn a 1/4 turn to make it come on,and it has a little spool of cable you can unwind that will reach the back of the truck..
Its hot wired right to the battery..

I opened the hood,and quickly saw it was not that lamp--there was flames!--a coolant temperature switch on the rear of the cylinder head had the plastic part pop out of the sending unit,and it landed right on the hot exhaust manifold!..the plug and wires were burning!..

And the main fuel line to the fuel filter on the firewall was like 3" from the burning wires..:yikes:..luckily the rubber hose to the filter hadn't started burning yet--but would have,if I had just went in the house and hadn't noticed the flames!..(good thing it was diesel fuel,not gas ,too!)..

Luckily I was able to blow on the wires and beat them with a wet rag I had stuffed inside the fender and get it to go out..
I put a big box of backing soda in the cab the next day!..better than nothing..

I really should invest in some new extinguishers--I have 2 in my garage and at least one in the house,and I bet all of them have sat so long they are dead..don't think they are refillable ones either...
I have one extinguisher that uses water and an anti-freeze you can pressurize with an air hose--that one works great,I keep it in my bedroom..

I don't even have a working smoke or CO detector in the house--it has hard wired smoke detectors,but they may not even work for all I know after 41 years--the "Kiddie" CO alarm started "chirping" a year ago,I took out the batteries,it was 10 yrs old--I dont have $50 to blow on another one right now,but I should get one,I do use the wood stoves some..

I read in the paper the Red Cross will give you one free,but you must let them in your house and "inspect" it first..they may not like the clutter in my late parents rooms,and I don't want strangers snooping around in the house--so I am not going to get one that way,but free would be nice--.
 
@diesel4me - you may want to go back and edit that post. Anything here is discoverable ("motion of discovery" by a court) and your comments about detectors could come back to bite you some day. Lifetime of experience in law enforcement speaking here :)

Ask your local fire department if they have any detectors set aside to give to those who don't have any. Often they are carried in the trucks and given to a resident in need if a detector is found to be faulty during a call. I haven't just been a cop, I'm also a call firefighter/EMT :)

Aaaaanyhow...back on topic...

Ladies and gentlemen, my mechanic has fixed my truck, and the culprit of the leak was...

(drum roll please)...

The darn flare at the end of the fuel line!!!!

More details tomorrow when I go pick it up.
 
Hopefully he cut you in an inline filter, ditched the in carb.
 
GoGoGirl said:
@diesel4me - you may want to go back and edit that post. Anything here is discoverable ("motion of discovery" by a court) and your comments about detectors could come back to bite you some day. Lifetime of experience in law enforcement speaking here :)

Ask your local fire department if they have any detectors set aside to give to those who don't have any. Often they are carried in the trucks and given to a resident in need if a detector is found to be faulty during a call. I haven't just been a cop, I'm also a call firefighter/EMT :)

Aaaaanyhow...back on topic...

Ladies and gentlemen, my mechanic has fixed my truck, and the culprit of the leak was...

(drum roll please)...

The darn flare at the end of the fuel line!!!!

More details tomorrow when I go pick it up.
Click to expand...


I plan to get another CO detector ASAP...and get the extunguishers charged or replaced..
I see no point in editing my post now,since its already been seen by whoever--it's not a sin to be low income and unable to afford $50 for each detector and new extinguishers..

If I had to go back and delete everything I posted online the past 10+ years that may be used "against me",it would be a monumental task..and fruitless,since they have already been "recorded" somewhere no doubt..:surepal:..nice to know your computer is just another "snitch" ..:doah:..sometimes I feel that is the main reason for the internet--to spy on people,and use their own words against them..:cautious:

Anyways,I'm glad you found the problem and got it corrected--and let us know,many times we never hear about the "fix",only the problem,and the post never gets "closure"..
 
It would suck and no learning or exchange of info would occur if I just abandoned this thread without a resolution. Too bad if some people do that.

Here are the photos taken tonight after dark. I’m in no shape to climb up and remove the air cleaner because my medical issues are flaring up today, but I wanted to show what I could. The hard line was cut and fuel-rated hose replaced the end of it. Changed the 5/8” fitting to one that accepts a hose, as someone mentioned above. There we have it!!

CEEBFBF2-2B60-49A3-BA10-A9C448BBA2C7.jpeg A1345DA4-DCCD-439A-8D49-D3C9474CCA1B.jpeg 789C2388-521D-4FBD-92A5-E8034852D713.jpeg 680731F3-DCBD-4878-B145-8647ED022AE7.jpeg
 
I double clamp rubber hoses that go on tubing that has no "bubble" at the end to prevent it from coming off..especially fuel and transmission cooler hose to steel lines,if I cant get my flaring tool in where they are to make a "hump" in the end of the tubing..
 
diesel4me said:
I double clamp rubber hoses that go on tubing that has no "bubble" at the end to prevent it from coming off..especially fuel and transmission cooler hose to steel lines,if I cant get my flaring tool in where they are to make a "hump" in the end of the tubing..
Click to expand...
Agreed.
 
While we're on the subject of hose clamps..dont buy cheap ones..

I recently "saved" about 200+ new hose clamps from my friends scrap pile,that he was given by another friend,I think they came from Harbor Freight..or some other "discount store"..They were still in sealed bags,my friend chucked them after he twisted several off trying to tighten them..

I only took them because there was a lot of the smallest sized ones that fits 1/4" fuel lines on small engines and I go thru a lot of them..

Some had a hex head,others had a screwdriver slot...
The hex head ones like to SNAP OFF just when you got them torqued down "tight enough"..some of the slotted head ones did too,but not as easily..
It is like the clamp part is stainless,but the worm screw is made of cheap zinc or aluminum or weak stainless!..no bargain!..

I have only used them on small engines with no fuel pump or a very low PSI "pulse" type pump,and tighten them gently --once they break the heads off,its a suck pill to try and remove the clamp,I'd never put one in a spot my side cutters wont reach!..
If I ever use any of the radiator hose sized ones ,I'll double or triple them up and not torque them too tight..
 
Hi GoGoGirl, I hope you are having success stopping your fuel leak. I have only read the first and last pages in thread, I apologize if I repeat previous suggestions.
1st I suspect the copper line is the issue. The sould be made of steel, stainless steel if your state has alcohol in the fuel.
2nd don't be tempted to use Teflon tape, on fuel systems the tape can shave off and cuase blockage in carbs and injectors. You can use liquid Teflon, if pipe thread or old worn flair fittings.
Myself I would encourage you to get a steel line, either new or used.
Good luck
 
I just bought an assortment of "EFI hose clamps" to try, same idea as these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ZPV9esHz66HWExhtE_6vR7GkVj94lxfkaAixYEALw_wcB I don't use a ton of clamps, but the worm gear type aren't my favorite. Stripping, bite into hose, etc. The only downside I can see for the EFI style is that sometimes it's easier to completely undo a worm gear type clamp for removal or installation. I'm not sure the EFI style allows that.

mrk5 said:
I've had more trouble with crappy hose clamps lately as well.
Click to expand...
 
Yes, I do have those clamps as well. On the TBI saddle tanks they still use rubber hose over barbed lines to connect to the sending unit and the tank selector valve. So I picked up a box of those for use in those areas.
 
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